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The Virtual Finish of the Lorrie Van Haul Renovation Caper
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Author:  JCAllison [ Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:36 am ]
Post subject:  The Virtual Finish of the Lorrie Van Haul Renovation Caper
Hey All,
Friday Morning Update:

Got Lorrie's Engine Cabinetry installed.

Got Lorrie's Air Cleaner installed.

Got the two parts of the Engine Cabinetry Access Lid Panels installed.

Cleaned everything out of Lorrie.

The ORIGINAL Engine Cover was 12 Gauge Sheet Metal with no insulation. Not only was Lorrie LOUD, but she was HOT to boot.

The 12 Gauge Sheet Metal Engine Cover was removed in 1976, and an Engine Cabinet was constructed of 1/2" painted (Black) Marine Plywood.

While THAT was superior to the ORIGINAL Engine Cover at reducing the HEAT, it STILL did little to abate the considerable noise from Lorrie's mighty 225 Slant Six Engine.

It was so loud that I had to wear foam Ear Plugs in order to drive very far.

A REAL effort to ameliorate that situation has been made in the the present Engine Cabinetry, which is made of a layer of 5/8" painted (Black) Verola Plywood, with a 3/4" X 3/4" Frame, inside which is a piece of 3/4" Cellotex, which is an R11 rated Styrofoam + Aluminum Foil Insulation, held in place with a 1/4" painted (White) Verola Plywood.

The construction is glued&screwed.

The lamination of these four components provides a VERY low degree of heat transfer, and has cut down on the noise level to a GREAT extent.

To see just how quiet Lorrie is with the Engine running, once her Engine Cabinetry was installed, her mighty 225 Slant Six Engine was started and brought up to operating temperature.

Am pleased to announce that the sound level inside Lorrie is the equivalent of any modern automobile.

This is the quietest Lorrie has EVER been in the thirty-seven years that we have been together.

Am just hoping that after having sat of sixteen years, that the coma didn't degrade things to the point that when Lorrie starts being driven daily that stuff starts failing to function properly.

She has a NEW Master Cylinder
She has all NEW or rebuilt Slave Cylinders.
She has a NEW Water Pump.
She has a NEW Fuel Pump.
She has NEW Manifold Gaskets.
She has a NEW Bendix Stromberg Carburetor.
She has NEW Push Rods.
She has NEW Rear Tires.
She has a NEW Battery.
She has a NEW Alternator Regulator and another NEW Alternator Regulator as a back-up.
Her Alternator is a functioning unit and will have another unit that Smith Auto Electric will rebuild as a back-up.
She has a NEW Ballast Resistor, and another NEW Ballast Resistor as a back-up.
She has all NEW Spark Plugs.
She has all NEW Hoses.
She has a NEW Fuel Gauge.
She has a NEW Sender Unit.
She is getting a 60-ish Sun Super Model SST-802 Tachometer.
She has a NEW Rear Transmission Seal.
She has a NEW Right Rear Axle Seal,
She has NEW Windshield Wiper Blades.
She has NEW Engine Cabinetry.
She has a completely reconditioned Radiator.
She has a Herculiner Bed Liner-ed Cargo Bay.
She has a completely insulated and paneled interior.
She has a NEW Roof Vent right above the Driver's Seat.
She has a NEW Starboard Window Retracting Mechanism.
She has all NEW Start/Run/Charge System Circuit Wiring.
She has completely reconditioned Doors.
She has completely recondition Door Latches.

Still need to install the Windshield Wiper Blades.

Still need to install the Front Bumper.

Still have to install the Tachometer when it gets here next Thursday or Friday..

Am still going to have to take a complete set of JPGs once the NEW Battery for the Digital Camera gets here next Wednesday and then post them so that you all can see Lorrie in her natural habitat (The largest Pine Tree Forest in the World).

She now needs a thorough vacuuming, dusting, polishing, and general cleaning spiff-up, and she would be good to go. Am thinking of just going and getting her insured, registered, licensed, and taking her to see if she will pass inspection, and deal with the situation of almost being out of money till July 3, 2012.

There are still a bunch of "detail" things that need to be done, but for all intents and purposes, Lorrie is once again a functioning member of the automotive community.

For those of you who have followed this whole caper, here is a copy of the list of things that was made in order to have an organized procedure. This list was made in the process of contemplating what had to be done and how to do it.

Work on Lorrie Van Haul
(The only 1967 Dodge Mail Van in the whole wide world)

Rebuild Brake System.

Disassemble Right Front Brake Assembly.
Remove Front Wheel Cylinder.
Clean up Front Flexible Brake Hose.
Clean Front Brake Back Plate.
Clean Front Brake Assembly Component.
Clean, Ospho, and repaint Front Brake Drum.
Clean Brake Shoe.
Obtain New Front Wheel Cylinder.
Clean out Front Brake Line.
Reinstall Front Wheel Cylinder.
Rebuild Front Brake Assembly.

Disassemble Left Front Brake Assembly.
Remove Front Wheel Cylinder.
Clean up Front Flexible Brake Hose.
Clean Front Brake Back Plate.
Clean Front Brake Assembly Component.
Clean, Ospho, and repaint Front Brake Drum.
Clean Brake Shoe.
Obtain New Front Wheel Cylinder.
Clean out Front Brake Line.
Reinstall Front Wheel Cylinder.
Rebuild Front Brake Assembly.

Disassemble Right Rear Brake Assembly.
Remove Right Rear Wheel Cylinder.
Clean Right Rear Brake Back Plate.
Clean Right Rear Brake Assembly Components.
Clean, Ospho, and repaint Right Rear Brake Drum.
Remove Right Rear Axle.
Get NEW Right Rear Inner Oil Seal.
Get Seal Puller. (used claw hammer).
Remove Right Rear Inner Oil Seal.
Install Right Rear Inner Oil Seal.
Mask and paint Right Rear Axle Flange face and back Gloss Black.
Mask and paint the face of the Retainer Gloss Black.

Reinstall Right Rear Axle Assembly:
1. Install rubberized Metal Gasket using Form-A-Gasket on the Right Rear
Axle Housing Flange.
2. Install Right Rear Brake Backing Plate using Form-A-Gasket on the face
of the rubberized Metal Gasket.
3. Remove masking tape from Axle Assembly, and back off Adjustment Ring on Right Rear Axle Shaft Assembly until the inner face of the Adjuster is flush with the Inner face of the Retainer.
4. Pack Wheel Bearing with Bearing Grease.
5. Install the Right Rear Brake Drum BACKWARDS on the Axle Flange (This will give something to handle the Axle Assembly with when inserting the Axle Splines into the Differential Spider Gear).
6. Install Fiber Gasket on face of Brake Back Plate with Form-A- Gasket to both sides of Fiber Gasket.
7. Grease Axle Splines, and slide Axle Assembly into Axle Housing using care not to damage Seal, making sure that the Axle Splines are inserted into the Differential Spider Gear.
8. Remove backwards mounted Brake Drum.
9. Install the five Retaining Nuts on the Axle Housing Flange Studs and torque to 35 ft. lbs.
10. Hit Left Rear Axle with a non-metallic mallet to seat Right Wheel Bearing against the Adjuster.
11. With an Indicator fastened to the Brake Back Plate, tighten Adjuster till there is ZERO End Play.
12. Back off Adjuster till there is 0.013 - 0.023 inches of End Play.
13. Install the Adjuster Lock under one of the five Retaining Nuts on the Axle Housing Flange Studs.
14. Recheck End Play and repeat adjustment procedure if necessary.
15. Remove Indicator Device.

Get Rebuild Kit for Right Rear Wheel Cylinder.
Hone Right Rear Wheel Cylinder.
Rebuild Right Rear Wheel Cylinder.
Reinstall Right Rear Wheel Cylinder.

Rebuild Right Rear Brake Assembly.
Lightly lubricate the Shoe Contact Platforms.
Place the Primary and Secondary Shoes in their relative postion on a bench.
Lubricate and install the Star wheel assembly and fit the Star Wheel Assembly with the Star Wheel next to the Secondary Shoe.
Overlap the ends of the Primary and Secondary Shoes and install the Adjusting Spring and Lever at the Anchor End.
Hold the Shoes in position and install the Parking Brake Cable into the Lever.
Install the Parking Brake Strut and Spring between the Parking Brake Lever and Primary Shoe.
Place the Brake Shoes on the support and install the Retainer Nails and Springs.
Install the Anchor Pin Plate.
Install the Eye of the Adjusting Cable over the Anchor Pin.
Install the Anchor Pin and Primary Shoe.
Install the Cable Guide in the Secondary Shoe.
Install the Secondary Return Spring.
Position the Adjusting Cable in the groove of the Cable Guide.
Engage the Hook of the Adjusting Cable in the Adjuster Lever.
Install the Brake Drum.
Hook up Right Rear Hydraulic Line to Wheel Cylinder.
Adjust Right Rear Brake Assembly.

Disassemble Left Rear Brake Assembly.
Remove Left Rear Wheel Cylinder.
Clean Left Rear Brake Back Plate.
Mask and paint Left Rear Brake Back Plate.
Clean Left Rear Brake Assembly Components.
Clean, Ospho, and repaint Left Rear Brake Drums.
Get Rebuild kit for Left Rear Wheel Cylinder.
Rebuild Left Rear Wheel Cylinder.

Rebuild Left Rear Brake Assembly.
Lightly lubricate the Shoe Contact Platforms.
Install Left Rear Wheel Cylinder.
Place the Primary and Secondary Shoes in their relative postion on a bench.
Lubricate and install the Star wheel assembly and fit the Star Wheel Assembly with the Star Wheel next to the Secondary Shoe.
Overlap the ends of the Primary and Secondary Shoes and install the Adjusting Spring and Lever at the Anchor End.
Hold the Shoes in position and install the Parking Brake Cable into the Lever.
Install the Parking Brake Strut and Spring between the Parking Brake Lever and Primary Shoe.
Place the Brake Shoes on the support and install the Retainer Nails and Springs.
Install the Anchor Pin Plate.
Install the Eye of the Adjusting Cable over the Anchor Pin.
Install the Anchor Pin and Primary Shoe.
Install the Cable Guide in the Secondary Shoe.
Install the Secondary Return Spring.
Position the Adjusting Cable in the groove of the Cable Guide.
Engage the Hook of the Adjusting Cable in the Adjuster Lever.
Install the Brake Drum.
Hook up Left Rear Hydraulic Line to Wheel Cylinder.
Adjust Left Rear Brake Assembly.

Clean out Rear Brake Lines.
Hook up Hydraulic Line to Left and Right Rear Wheel Cylinder.
Need to remove Left Rear Tire and take it to Ken Rhodes for remounting.
Had to weld up a corroded spot and grind it down.

Install NEW Master Cylinder.
Remove, Master Brake Cylinder.
Purchase New Master Brake Cylinder.
Install Master Cylinder.
Install Boot.
Install Pushrod.
Hook up Pedal Mechanism.
Install Springs
Install Pedal Restraint.
Hook up Hydraulic Lines to Master Cylinder.
Install Brake Light Switch.

Bleed Entire Brake System.
Get Neoprene Tubing.
Prepare Neoprene Tubing.
Heat it in water to relax it both coil-wise, and cross section-wise.
Hook it to Wheel Cylinders.
Run it, securing it as it goes.
Get Sun Tea Jar and drill holes for tubing.
Put Hydraulic Fluid in Sun Tea Jar to keep air from returning to the lines.
Fill Master Cylinder with Hydraulic Fluid.
Suck the Hydraulic Fluid into the Neoprene Tubing to bleed Master Cylinder.
Then pump the Master Cylinder to get all the air out of the lines.
Refill Master Cylinder as necessary.

Wheels:
Clean, Ospho, repaint, and reuse the Wagon Wheels (existing tires).
Clean, Ospho, repaint, and reuse the Wagon Wheels (for new tires).
Paint Wheels Gloss Gray.

Tires:
Clean Two Existing Tires with lots of tread.
Have bald tires removed from wheels.
Put one Tire and two empty Wheels in Ms. American.
Purchase two new Tires to match existing Tires From Ken Barnes.
Clean and lubricate Front Wheel Studs.
Install Front Tires.
Repair Left Handed Lug Nut or get a new one.
Install Right Rear Tire.
Install Left Rear Tire.

Interior:
Clean everything out of Lorrie.
Grille.
Floorboard Access Panel.
Battery.
Accelerator Pedal.
Step Covers.
Seat.
Tools.
Supplies.
Spare Tire.
Jack.
Carpet.
Vacuum Interior.

Clean Accelerator Pedal.
Clean and trim Accelerator Pedal,
Mask and paint Accelerator Pedal.

Vacuum Carpet.
Roll up and store.

Clean Floorboard Access Panel.
Strip Top.
Prime with Self Etching Primer.
Paint bottom with Aluminum Paint.
Strip Removable panel.
Clean and Paint Bolt heads.
Paint top of Front Access Panel with Herculiner Bed Liner.

Clean Grille.
Strip Front.
Prime front with Self Etching Primer.
Clean back.
Paint back with Aluminum Paint.
Paint Gloss White.
Install.

Install Radiator.
Find Bolts, Washers, and Nuts.
Bolt Radiator in place.
Straighten Pleats between Tubes.
Cut and Install Upper Coolant Hose.
Connect Lower Coolant Hose.
Obtain Transmission Cooler Hoses.
Install Transmission Cooler Hoses.
Get Matte Black Slateboard Paint from Lowe's

Install Front Bumper:
Wire Brush entire Bumper.
Ospho Interior of Bumper.
Put Bumper on Front Frame Rails.
Bolt into place.
Get Gloss Black and White Paint at Paint Store.
Brush paint Bumper with Gloss Black Paint.
Remove Stabilizer Brackets.
Strip Stabilizer Brackets.
Reinstall stabilizer Brackets.

Paint Deck Plate Fenders:
Wire Brush Fenders.
Remove Headlight Bezels.
Clean and polish Headlight Bezels.
Remove Front Turn Signals.
Clean Front Turn Signals.
Repair Front Turn Signals.
Repaint Front Turn Signals.
Paint Rectangle around Lights Matte Black.
Reinstall Headlight Bezels.
Reinstall Turn Signals.
Obtain Dum Dum from NAPA.
Install Dum Dum at top of Fender.
Brush paint Fenders with Gloss Black Paint.

Starter Solenoid.
Obtain Starter Relay.
Install Starter Relay.
Wire Starter Relay.

Fix the Starboard Side Door making it easier to open.
Remove Starboard Pocket Panel.
Remove Top of Door.
Clean out Channel.
Refurbish Rollers.
Lubricate Channel and Rollers.
Strip Roller Channel.
Prime Roller Channel.
Paint Roller Channel Gloss White.
Strip Receiver Channel.
Prime Receiver Channel.
Paint Receiver Channel Gloss White.
Survey top of Door situation.
Make necessary repairs.
Cut away rusted areas.
Paint what is left.
Get 12 Gauge Sheet Metal Strap.
Fabricate Repair Insert.
Paint Repair Insert.
Clamp Insert in Place.
Drill for Pop Rivets.
Pop Rivet Insert in.
Drill for Receiver Channel.
Install entire Door Assembly.
Ospho rusted areas.
Strip Starboard Pocket Panel Front
Strip Starboard Pocket Panel Back..
Brush Paint Starboard Pocket Panel Outside Gloss White.
Clean Starboard Door Pocket Interior.
Rough up with coarse Sand Paper.
Paint Starboard Door Pocket Interior w/ Rustoleum Bed Liner.
Roller Paint Starboard Pocket Panel Interior w/ Rustoleum Bed Liner.
Strip Starboard Latch Assembly.
Prime Starboard Latch Assemby.
Paint Starboard Latch Assembly Gloss White.
Strip Port Latch Assembly.
Prime Port Latch Assembly.
Paint Port Latch Assembly Gloss White
Use cut off wheel to remove port side door handle.
Reinstall port door handle to match starboard side.
Cut access holes on interior of port side door.
Use cut off wheel to cut access holes in starboard door interior.
Remove Outside Door handle.
Reinstall with new Machine Screw, Star Washer, and Nut.
Reattach Latch Assemblies.
Obtain Oval Phillips Screws and Trim Washers.
Reinstall Pocket Cover Panel with Metal Building Screws.
Reinstall Latch Catches on Pocket Panel Covers.
Remove Window Pocket Cover Panel.
Strip Exterior.
Repaint Exterior Gloss White.
Ospho Interior of Window Pocket.
Abrade Interior of Window Pocket Panel.
Repaint Interior of Window Pocket Panel w/ Rustoleum Bed Liner.
Remove Window Lift Mechanism.
Reinstall Window Pocket Panel w/ Rubberized Tape & Metal Screws.
Fabricate some kind of Window Restraint.
Repaint Inside of Starboard Door Gloss White.

Remove Port Pocket Panel.
Paint Roller Channel Gloss White.
Strip Receiver Channel.
Paint Receiver Channel Gloss White.
Strip Port Pocket Panel.
Brush Paint Pocket Panel Outside Gloss White.
Roller Paint Port Pocket Panel Inside w/ Bed Liner.
Roller Paint Port Pocket Interior w/ Bed Liner.

Strip Port Latch Assembly.
Prime Port Latch Assembly.
Paint Port Latch Assembly Gloss White
Use cut off wheel to remove port side door handle.
Reinstall port door handle to match starboard side.
Cut access holes on interior of port side door.
Reinstall with new Machine Screw, Star Washer, and Nut.
Reinstall Pocket Panel with Metal Building Screws.
Reattach Latch Assembly.
Reinstall catche on Pocket Panel Covers.
Strip Inside of Port Door.
Repaint Inside of Port Door Gloss White.

Prepare Floor for Herculiner Bed Liner application.
Remove Accelerator Pedal.
Remove Angle Iron Brackets.
Remove Heater Door.
Strip Heater Door.
Paint both sides of Heater Door with Self-Etching Primer.
Repaint Heater door Gloss Black.
Strip Paint Off Of Floor.
Strip Paint Off Of Transmission Hump.
Completely strip Front Elevated Panels.
Completely strip Step Up Wells.
Completely strip Wheel Wells in Cargo Area.
Obtain Hurculiner Bed Liner from Auto Zone.
Obtain Xylol for clean up and thinner.
Obtain Heerculiner Bed Liner (one gallon).
Obtain Xylol for clean up and thinner.
Paint Prepared Floor Perimeter w/ Hurculiner Bed Liner.
Remove Aluminum Angles for Step Up Well Inserts.
Clean Plywood Step Up Well Inserts.
Repaint Plywood Step Up Well Inserts w/ Gloss Black on top.
Repaint Plywood Step Up Well Inserts w/ Matte Black on Bottom.
Find Aluminum Angles for Step Up Wells.
Reinstall Aluminum Angles for Step Up Well Inserts.
Reinstall Plywood Step Up Inserts.
Get Super Floor Panels out of Storage.
Clean Super Floor Panels.
Repaint Super Floor Panels Gloss Black on top.
Repaint super Floor Panels Matte Black on Bottom.
Put back in Storage till needed.
Wash Floor w/ Xylol.
Apply first coat of Herculiner Bed Liner.
Apply second coat of Herculiner Bed Liner.
Wash Removable Floor Panel w/ Xylol.
Apply first coat of Herculiner Bed Liner.
Apply second coat of Herculiner Bed Liner.

Remove Step-Up Handles:
Strip.
Prime.
Repaint Gloss White.
Clean and repaint Mounting Bolts Gloss White.
Reinstall AFTER repainting Exterior.

Remove Mirrors,
Clean.
Polish.
Clean and repaint Mounting Bolts Gloss White.
Reinstall AFTER repainting Exterior.

Remove ORIGINAL Horns:
Clean.
Check to see if functional.
Disassemble Horns.
Remove Screws and Rivets.
Take Pictures of all Components.
Clean Interior.
Clean and Repaint Exterior.
Remake Gaskets.
Reassemble entire Unit.
Adjust and Test.
Reinstall.
Hook up to Electrical System.

Prepare Exterior and Repaint.
Do one panel at a time.
Windshield Plane.
Quarter Window Panels.
Strip and repaint.
Strip and repaint top of Driver's Side Body.
Strip and repaint top of Passenger's Side Body.
Strip and repaint top of Rear Panel.
Strip and repaint bottom of Rear Panels.
Strip and repaint tops of Doors.
Strip and repaint bottom of Port Door.
Strip and repaint bottom of Starboard Door.
Fill all body holes with proper sized Bolts and Nuts.
Wash all panels.
Paint Gloss Black with Bar Ox Gloss Black Enamel and textured roller.
Clean Gloss White areas.
Paint Gloss White areas with Bar Ox Gloss White Enamel and smooth roller.
Paint the bottom of the front Roof Cap Gloss White.
Paint the sides of the Roof Cap back to the Door Pocket Gloss White.
Paint the Door Pocket Gaskets Black.
Paint the Door Front Gaskets Black
Paint Stripe around the bottom of Body and Bumpers Light Gray.
Paint Stripe around the bottom of Body and Bumpers Medium Gray.
Paint Stripe around the bottom of Body and Bumpers Dark Gray.

Rear Door:
Clean Exterior.
Clean Interior.
Strip Exterior.
Prepare Interior.
Paint Interior.
Do second coat.
Do third coat.
Fix lower Starboard corner:
Cut out decayed wood section.
Cut replacement section.
Glue in with Gorilla Glue.
Remove excess Glue.
Sand Smooth.
Even bottom edge.
Apply Minwax Wood Filler.
Repaint Gloss White.
First Coat.
Second Coat.
Third Coat.
Strip Bottom Seal.
Repaint Bottom Seal.
Fix Bottom Seal.
Reinstall Bottom Seal w/ Wood Screws.
Remove Strap Bracket.
Strip Strap Bracket.
Spray paint Strap Bracket Gloss Black.
Launder Strap.
Fabricate Inside Washer Plate from Roof Air Vent Scrap.
Reinstall Strap and Strap Bracket.
Obtain Carriage Bolts for holes in Rear Door.
Install Carriage Bolts in holes in Rear Door.

Repair Torsion Spring Mechanism on Rear Door
Remove Cable from Torsion Spring Mechanism.
Obtain NEW Cable.
Obtain Crimp Fittings.
Remove OLD Cable from Bottom Roller.
Install Crimp Fitting on end of Cable.
Abrade it to fit Slotted Hole.
Install NEW Cable at proper tension.
Attach to Bottom Roller Thimble.
Use RotoTool to cut off Cable Tail.

Prepare Roof:
Clean entire roof.
Abrade existing paint.
Repaint with Rustoleum Bed Liner.
Give Roof a second coat of Rustoleum Bed Liner.
Prepare the Front, Rear, and Sides of Roof for painting.
Repaint Front End Cap Gloss Black.
Repaint Rear End Cap Gloss Black.
Repaint Port Side of Roof Gloss Black.
Repaint Starboard Side of Roof Gloss Black.
Obtain NEW Air Vent.
Drill Air Vent Corners through NEW Roof.
Cut out hole for NEW Air Vent.
Install NEW Air Vent.

Interior Walls and Ceiling Insulation:
Obtain Celotex Insulation ($8.49 a sheet)
Install Celotex Insulation.
Cut Insulation for Doors.
Install Insulation in Doors when Paneling is installed.
Install Insulation around Roof Vent.
Install Aluminum Angle under Rear Side Window.
Install Insulation under Rear Side Window.
Obtain Aluminum Angle and Strap for Corner Panel Flanges.
Fabricate Rear Corner Panel Flanges.
Install Rear Corner Panel Flanges.
Obtain Sheet Metal Panel Flanges for each side of Rear Door.
Install Sheet Metal Panel Flanges on each side of Rear Door.
Install Cellotex Insulation in Panels on each side of Rear Door.
Cut insulation for around Roof Vent.

Interior Walls and Ceiling Paneling:
Obtain Five Pieces of 4'-0" X 8'-0" Gloss White FRP Paneling.
Cover Cellotex Insulation with Gloss White FRP Paneling
Install Trim around Vent.
Install Insulation around Roof Vent.
Install Trim over Transverse Seam between Doors.
Install Trim over Longitudinal Seam on Rear Ceiling.
Install Aluminum Angle Trim on Rear Wall at Ceiling.
Obtain Aluminum Angle and Bar from Lowe's.
Install Trim on Rear of Port Door Pocket at Rear Port Wall.
Install Trim on Rear of Starboard Quarter Panel at Rear Wall.
Install Trim on Rear of Port Quarter Panel at Rear Wall.
Install Aluminum Bar on Seam above Engine Cabinet.
Install Angle at Ceiling on Starboard side of Rear Door.
Install Angle at Ceiling on Port side of Rear Door.
Fabricate Clips.
Fabricate Aluminum Flat Bar Seam Covers.
Install Clips.
Install Aluminum Bar Trim on Starboard Quarter Panel Seam.
Install Aluminum Bar Trim on Port Quarter Panel Seams.
Install Aluminum Bar Trim on Starboard Rear Panel Seam.
Install Aluminum Bar Trim on Port Rear Panel Seam.
Install Aluminum Angle on Rear edge of Port Side Window.
Install Aluminum Angle on Front edge of Port Side Window.
Obtain four more pieces of Aluminum Angle.
Install Aluminum Angle on Backs of Door Pockets.
Install Aluminum Angle on each side of Rear Door.
Install Aluminum Angle on Bottom edge of Port Side Window.

Install Battery.
Clean and repaint Battery Compartment.
Clean and repaint Battery Hold Down Mechanism.
Install Battery Hold Down Mechanism.
Clean Battery Cables.
Charge Battery.
Clean Top of Battery Compartment Door.
Clean Underside of Battery Compartment Door.
Clean Flanges on Battery Compartment.
Paint Flanges Gloss Black.
Paint Top of Battery Compartment Door w/ Bed Liner.
Paint Underside of Battery Compartment Door w/ Gloss Black.
Connect Battery.
Check Headlights.
Check Turn Signals and Emergency Flashers
Check Brake Light Switch.
Hook up Brake Light Switch to Fuse Panel.
Make sure Brake Lights work.
Obtain New License Plate Lightbulb.
Connect License Plate Light.

Electrical Refurbishment.
Make Diagram of Electrical System.
Pull Dash Panel.
Clean Wasp's Nest from Speedometer.
Code Wires connected to Fuse Panel.
Remove all Electrical Components from Firewall.
Fuse Panel.
Clean Fuse Panel.
Voltage Regulator.
Starter Relay.
Ballast Resistor.
Retainer Clips.
Clean Wires and Connector Ends.
Strip Firewall.
Paint Firewall Gloss White.
Clean all Electrical Component.
Reinstall Electrical Components on Firewall.
Super Glue Fuse Panel together.
Reinstall all Wiring for Ignition System.
Hook up all Accessories.
Strip and repaint Rear Light Assemblies.
Install License Plate Light.

Connect License Plate Light to Electrical System.

Seat.
Get Seat out of storage.
Remove Sheep Skin Seat Cover.
Get Vinyl Cleaner.
Clean Vinyl on Seat.
Wirebrush Seat Structure.
Ospho structure.
Prime and repaint structure.
Reinstall Sheep Skin Seat Cover.
Remove Trim at base of Pedestal.
Strip Trim.
Spray Paint gloss Black.
Wirebrush Pedestal.
Paint Pedestal gloss Black.
Reinstall Seat.
Reinstall Trim at Base of Pedestal.
Find the Buckle part Seat Belt.
Find the Plate part Seat Belt.
Find the Brackets for Seat Belts.
Reinstall Seat Belts.

Dash And Controls Details.
Clean Gauge Faces.
Clean Gauge Bezels.
Clean Aluminum Dash Panel.
Fabricate a Bracket to hold Speedometer in place.
Paint Bracket.
Install Speedometer.
Fabricate a Bracket to hole Fuel Gauge in place.
Install Fuel Gage.
Attach Light.
Hook up Fuel Gauge
Make a Ground Wire for the Ammeter.
Install Ground Wire from Ammeter to Ground.
Make Gauge Light Harness.
Install Lights in Gauges.
Hook Tachometer to Negative Post of Ignition Coil.
Hook Tachometer to Ground.
Hook Tachometer to Run Switch.
Hook Fuel Gauge to Gas Tank Sensor.
Hook Fuel Gauge to Run Switch.
Rewire Run Switch Wire to Voltage Regulator.
Refurbish Original Steering Wheel.
Clean and Wax.
Re-Install Original Steering Wheel.
Make cover for center of Steering Wheel.
Remove and reinstall Steering Wheel Cover.
Remove Hose Clamp holding Turn Signal Unit.
Remove Turn Signal Unit.Strip Steering Column.
Repaint Steering Column Satin Black.
Repaint Emergency Brake Satin Black.
Clean and paint Port Quarter Window Interior.
Clean and paint Starboard Quarter Window Interior.
Clean and paint Front Windshield Interior.
Clean and paint all the Fitting Brackets.
Survey the Foot Well Outer Panel area.
Measure, cut, and install Insulation and FRP Paneling for upper section.
Measure, cut, and install Aluminum Angle Trim on upper section.
Remove all Warranty Plate Screws.
Measure, cut and install Lower Section Insulation.
Measure, cut, assemble, and install Lower Section Paneling.
Paint Warranty Plate Panel Gloss White Enamel.
Reinstall Warranty Plate.

Build Cabinet over Engine.
Design double layer walled Cabinet w/ Insulation for sound and heat.
Get three pieces of 3/4" X 4'-0" X 8'-0" Plywood.
Get one piece of 1/4" X 4'-0" X 8'-0" Plywood.
Get a dozen 2X4s for NEW Saw Horses.
Remove Brackets from OLD Saw Horses.
Make two NEW Saw Horses.
Cut front piece between Port Wall and Dash.
Use the OLD Port Former.
Recut for NEW Cabinet shape.
Cut Perimeter pieces for Port Former.
Install with Glue and Screws.
Paint with Slate Black Paint.
Cut Insulation for Port Former.
Cut 1/4" Plywood for Port Former.
Paint side away from Engne Gloss Black.
Paint side facing Engine Gloss White.
Install with Glue and Screws
Install the Removable Floor with Bolts and Nuts.
Determine shape of Starboard Former.
Layout and cut Starboard Former.
Cut Perimeter pieces for Starboard Former.
Install with Glue and Screws.
Paint with Slate Black Paint.
Cut Insulation for Starboard Former.
Cut 1/4" Plywood for Starboard Former.
Paint side away from Engine Gloss Black.
Pain side facing Engine Gloss White.
Remove and paint Front Angled Piece, and reinstall.
Cut Front Piece for Engine Cabinet.
Cut Perimeter pieces for front of Engine Cabinet.
Install with Glue and Screws.
Cut 1/4" Plywood for Front of Engine Cabinet.
Insulate Engine Cabinet Front Piece.
Install Engine Cabinet Front Piece.
Cut Angled Front Piece for Storage Cabinet and paint.
Cut flat top piece for Storage Cabinet, and paint.
Cut angled front piece for Engine Cabinet, and paint.
Cut flat top piece for Engine Cabinet, and paint.
Cut Aluminim Angle Perimeter Pieces for Top of Engine Cabinet.
Install with Screws.
Cut and install Insulation Perimeter Pieces on Slanted Piece.
Cut and install Insulation Perimeter Pieces on Flat Piece.
Cut 1/4" Plywood Pieces for Both Top Pieces of the Engine Cabinet.
Paint Gloss Black on the side facing the Insulation.
Paint Gloss White on the side facing the Engine.
Cut front piece for Storage Cabinet.
Install Lid pieces in Cabinet. .
Paint 1/2" X 3/4" Wood Trim Carpet Edge.
Carpet the top of Storage Cabinet.
Carpet the front of the Storage and Engine Cabinet.
Carpet the front of Dash.
Cut 1/2" X 3/4" Wood Trim for the top of the Cabinetry.
Cut 1/2" X 3/4" Wood Trim for the front of the Cabinetry.
Obtain addition 1/2" X 3/4" Wood Trim from Hanson's.
Paint Wood Trim Gloss White.
Cut 1/2" X 3/4" Wood Trim
Install with finishing nails.
Cut All Weather Black Carpet for top of Storage Cabinet.
Adhere Black Carpet to top of Storage Cabnet.
Cut Black Carpet for Engine Cabinet Tops.
Adhere Black Carpet to Engine Cabinet Tops.
Trim Black Carpet.
Sand and paint Handle Gloss White Enamel.
Install Handle on Engine Cabinet Top.
Touch up Screws and Finish Nail Heads with Gloss White Enamel.

Superfloor Installation
Install Aluminum Channel on Cabinetry.
Clean and Paint Large Angle.
Install Large Angle on Rear of Door Pockets.
Refinish Super Floor Panels.
Install Super Floor Panels.
Carpet Super Floor w/ Black Carpet.

Bumpers.
Wire Brush and repaint top of Rear Bumper Gloss Black.
Wire Brush and repaint top of Front Bumper Gloss Black.

Clean Suspension Components.
Remove Shock Absorbers one at a time.
Strip Shock Absorbers.
Repaint Shock Absorbers Ford Blue.
Wire Brush Insides of Wheel Wells.
Paint Insides of Wheel Wells Gloss Gray.
Wire Brush Springs and Brackets.
Wire Brush Differential/Rear Axles.
Wire Brush Front Axle.
Wire Brush Steering Drag Link.

Engine
Install Air Cleaner.
Hook up Hose from PCV to Air Cleaner.
Install Frantz Oil Cleaner Bracket.
Fasten Canister Unit to Bracket.
Paint Air Cleaner Stud Holder Gold.
Reinstall Accelerator Pedal.
Reinstall Heater Cover.

Get 225 Slant Six Engine up and running.
Install rebuilt Holley 1920 Carburetor.
Hook up Throttle Linkage.
Hook up Fuel Line w/ Inline Filter.
Hook up Choke Mechanism.
Obtain Vacuum Hose to Distributor.
Hook up Vacuum Hose to Distributor.
Hook up Vacuum Hose to Dash Pot.
Clean Tension Spring Bracket.
Paint Tension Spring Bracket Gold.
Install Tension Spring Bracket.
Clean Tension Spring
Hook up Tension Spring.
Check the Gas Tank for Rust.

Make sure the transmission is alright.
Check on Rear Transmission Seal.
Acquired new Rear Transmission Seal.
Remove old Rear Transmission Seal.
Install NEW Rear Transmission Seal.

Repair rusted places with sheet metal, adhesive, and pop rivets.
Get NEW Pop Rivet Gun.
Install with adhesive and pop rivets.
Get Sheet Metal cut and bent to repair Hood.
Possibly cut out entire Front Sheet Metal and make it a hinged section.

Recondition Windshield Wiper Blades.
Buff the existing ones.
See if new ones can be had.
Got NEW Windshield Wiper Blades from NAPA.
Clean and buff Windshield Wiper Arms.
Assemble New Windshield Wiper Blades.
Remove Crank Rods.
Clean, strip, repaint Crank Rods.
Remove Windshield Wiper Motor.
Mask and paint Windshield Wiper Motor Gloss White.
Reinstall Windshield Wiper Motor after sheet metal is painted.
Reinstall Crank Rods.
Install NEW Windshield Wiper Blades.

Dodge Emblems.
Clean paint off of Dodge Emblems.
Install Port Dodge Emblem.
Install Starboard Dodge Emblem.
Install Front Dodge Emblem.
Am using a Nylon Hypodermic Syringe Body Segment as fastener.

Starboard Door Window.
Clean Aluminum Channel Molding.
Remove Cover.
Lift Window.
Rough up glass with sanding drum in RotoTool.
Re-adhere Aluminum Channel Molding to Glass with "Goop".
Design and a proper Window Locking Mechanism.
Design and a proper Window Height Mechanism.
Fabricate Bracket for bottom of Window Glass.
Fabricate Eye Bolt and Hook Assembly.
Install the Locking and Height mechanism.
Cut Aluminum Spacer and reinstall the Latch Mechanism.
Remove inspection and registration stickers.

To Get Lorrie's Mighty 225 Slant-Six Engine Up And Running:
Remove the Engine Cabinet Covers.
Remove the Engine Cabinet Right End.
Remove the Engine Cabinet Front Piece.
Remove Top Radiator Hose.
Remove Master Cylinder Access Panel.
Remove Floor Board. .
Clean up around Engine.
Clean up the Engine.
Remove Thermostat Housing.
Remove Thermostat.
Acquire a NEW Thermostat.
Acquire NEW Thermostat Gasket.
Clean Thermostat Housing.
Install NEW Thermostat and Gasket.
Remove Spark Plugs.
Regap Spark Plugs.
Number the Spark Plug Leads.
Remove the Coil to Distributor Wire.
Remove the "+" Wire from Ignition Coil.
Spray some AeroKroil into Cylinders.
Spray some WD40 into Cylinders.
Squirt some Motor Oil into Cylinders.
Pour 1/4 quart of oil into the PCV Port in Valve Cover.
Acquire a 3/4" x 2-1/4" 16 Thread Per Inch, Zink Plated, Grade 5 Steel Bolt.
Remove Lorrie's Front Bumper.
Remove Lorrie's Grille.
Remove Lorrie's Radiator.
Clean the threads in the nose of the Engine's Crankshaft.
Thread in the Bolt.
Acquire a 1-1/8" Six Point Socket.
Loosen Bolt in Alternator holding the Fan Belt Adjusting Bracket.
Remove Fan Belt.
Use the NEW Socket and a Breaker Bar to turn Engine a dozen turns.
Remove Battery.
Remove and refurbish Lorrie's Fuse Panel.
Put Ms. American's Battery in Lorrie.
Remove Starter Relay.
Remove extraneous Ground Wire.
Connect Ammeter Wire to Common Strip on Fuse Panel.
Rewire Start Switch with one Wire going to Starter Solenoid and the second wire going to the Ignition Coil.
Fix Connector on Batt Wire from Alternator to Ammeter.
Reinstall Lorrie's Radiator, and hook up all the Hoses.
Put Distilled Water in Radiator.
Put Gasoline in Fuel Tank.
Rotate Engine to get Oil up into Galleries and Fuel to the Carburetor.
Reinstall Spark Plugs.
Hook up Spark Plug Leads.
Hook up Distributor to Ignition Coil.
Reconnect "+" Wire to Ignition Coil.
Reconnect Tachometer to Ignition Coil.
Prime Carburetor.
Turn on Run Switch.
Activate Start Switch.
See if Lorrie's Engine will start.

Fix what is wrong with Lorrie:
Clean out Gas Tank.
Ospho Gas Tank.
Paint Gas Tank.
Install Pick-Up Tube in Gas Tank.
Install Hose Fitting in Pick-Up Tube.
Get NEW Stewart Warner 385CF Sending Unit.
Get OLD Stewart Warner 82413 Fuel Gauge.
Install NEW Stewart Warner 385CF Sending Unit in Gas Tank.
Install Gas Tank.
Install Filler Pipes and Hoses.
Get SeaFoam.
Get Berrymans ChemTool 12 Fuel Additive Carburetor Cleaner.
Get Gasoline. (five gallons).
Get NEW Fuel Filter.

Get bent Pushrods removed and NEW Pushrods installed.

[Tuesday, May 15, 2012: Turned the Engine over today, and it bent the Number Four Intake Valve Push Rod. The Engine was sitting for a week and during that time, the Number Four Intake Valve got restuck.]

What to do?

Option Number One:
Get a NEW five gallon Gas Can from the Hardware Store.
Get a five gallon supply of fresh Gasoline ready to go into Gas Tank.
Mix in half a can of SeaFoam.
Mix in half a can of Berryman ChemTool 12 Carburetor Cleaner.
Install the Bendix Stromberg Carburetor and hook up the Linkage, but not the Fuel Line.
Install the Distributor Cap.
Remove ALL the Pushrods except Number Four Intake Valve's Pushrod.
Remove the Valve Spring Assembly from Number Four Intake Valve.
Remove the Valve Guide Seal.
Reinstall the Spring Assembly on Number Four Intake Valve.
Reinstall the Rocker Arm Assembly with only Number Four Intake Valve operable.
Turn the Engine with the Starter while putting AeroKroil and Acetone on the Valve Guide with the Hypodermic Syringe.
Work with the Valve till it is free and spinnable.
Remove the Rocker Arm Assembly.
Remove the Number Four Intake Valve Assembly.
Reinstall the Valve Guide Seal.
Reassemble the Number Four Intake Valve Spring Assembly.
Let the Engine sit long enough for Number Four Valve to stick.
If it does, re-do the unsticking process.
Do this till it no longer sticks.
Install ALL the Pushrods.
Install the Rocker Arm Assembly and torque it down.
Cold Adjust the Valves (Intake 0.020, exhaust 0.030).
Install the Spark Plugs and hook them up.
Put Gasoline into Gas Tank.
Turn the Engine till all the OLD Gasoline is purged from the Fuel Line.
Connect Fuel Line to the Carburetor.
Start the Engine and let it run till the NEW Gasoline has cleaned up the Number Four Valve Stem.

Stuff to Get:
Dielectric Silicone.
NEW Thermostat.
NEW Thermostat Gasket.
Accordian Pleated Bottom Radiator Hose.
Transmission Fluid (eight quarts).
Distilled Water (four gallons).
Get Gas for Lorrie's Gas Tank (five gallons).

Left to do:
Get Lorrie's Start/Run/Charge System all worked out.
Adjust Left Front Brake Assembly.
Adjust Right Front Brake Assembly
Adjust Left Rear Brake Assembly.
Adjust Right Rear Brake Assembly.
Cut out Grill Bolt Holes.
Install Grille.
Install Front Dodge Emblem.
Install NEW Windshield Wiper Blades.
Install sheet metal over holes in front with adhesive and pop rivets.
Get Sheet Metal cut and bent to repair Hood.
Possibly cut out entire Front Sheet Metal and make it a hinged section.
Install NEW Rear Transmission Seal.
Install Air Cleaner.
Hook up Hose from PCV to Air Cleaner.
Install Aluminum Channel on Cabinetry.
Clean and Paint Large Angle.
Install Large Angle on Rear of Door Pockets.
Refinish Super Floor Panels.
Install Super Floor Panels.
Carpet Super Floor w/ Black Carpet.
Strip and repaint Rear Light Assemblies.
Clean Gloss White areas.
Paint Gloss White areas with Bar Ox Gloss White Enamel and smooth roller.
Paint the Door Pocket Gaskets Black.
Paint the Door Front Gaskets Black.

Whew!

JC
Author:  Reed [ Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:33 am ]
Post subject: 
Wow! Lots of work. Good job. However,

Image
Author:  JCAllison [ Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:56 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Wow! Lots of work. Good job. However,

Image
Hey Reed,
As was mentioned in the post, am awaiting the arrival of an NP-F330 Battery for the antique Sony MVC-FD75 FDMavica Digital Still Camera which has been used to take all the JPGs of Lorrie which are posted on PhotoBucket (you've already seen them).

The OLD Battery has finally given up the ghost. (

When the NEW NP-F330 gets here, will be taking copious JPGs of Lorrie showing EVERYTHING about her, and will be posting them here for perusal.

Hopefully, Monday will find her getting her insurance, registration, and license, and then it will be on to the Inspection Station to hopefully get her Inspection Sticker.

Patience, my friend. Have no intention of letting you down.

JC
Author:  Reed [ Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:48 am ]
Post subject: 
Oh! I missed that bit about the camera battery croaking.
Author:  JCAllison [ Fri Jun 15, 2012 4:17 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Oh! I missed that bit about the camera battery croaking.
Hey Reed,
It was a long involved post. It's not a wonder that it was missed.

JC
Author:  JCAllison [ Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:11 am ]
Post subject: 
Hey All,
Thursday Morning Update:

Here are the JPGs that were promised:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

These last two JPGs are of Lorrie's Frantz Oil Cleaner Canister. It contains a filter element that has 10,000 times the filtration power of a regular pleated paper Filter. It removes 100% of the particulates and moisture in a vehicle's oil. Lorrie has had no oil changes since her mighty 225 Slant Six Engine was rebuilt in 1985. It is as clean as the day it came out of the bottle.

Image

Image

Am going to see how the day goes. May head to the Farmer's Insurance Office and get Lorrie an Insurance Policy, then go across the street to the Courthouse and get Lorrie a NEW Registration Sticker, and a set of NEW License Plates.

After installation of the NEW Sticker and Plates, it would then be in order to take her for Inspection.

If she passes inspection, she will be able to be "On The Road Again". (Willie Nelson)

It has taken two and a half years to transform Lorrie from the vehicle here:

http://msamericanpi.bravehost.com/dodge.htm

To the vehicle shown above.

There are still some details that need to be done, but all in all, Lorrie is good to go.

Hope you all are well.

JC
Author:  Reed [ Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:45 am ]
Post subject: 
Looking good!
Author:  Rust collector [ Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:45 am ]
Post subject: 
That is a very cool...BOX! :lol:

I want something like that...

I would consider an oilchange, "clean" is not everything with oil, just saying...
Author:  FrankRaso [ Thu Jun 21, 2012 10:41 am ]
Post subject: 
Nice work!

I would still do regular oil changes even though you have a bypass filter as the additives in the oil are consumed with use. The bypass filter also won't restore the VIIs (Viscosity Index Improvers), neutralize acidity, or remove gasoline. You really need to do Used Oil Analysis to really have a good idea of the condition of the oil.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/engine-oil-analysis/

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/used-oil-analysis/
Author:  JCAllison [ Thu Jun 21, 2012 12:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Looking good!
Hey Reed.
Thank you! And thanks for all the assistance you supplied. :)

There are still some cosmetic things that I would like to do on Lorrie, but they probably won't get done any time soon as Summer is upon us, and it's just too hot outside to do much of ANYTHING till the Autumn.

BTW, the Sony Digital Still Camera Battery came yesterday and turned out to be NOT the Battery that was ordered.

What was ordered was an NP-F330, which has a Charge Life of 70 minutes and will take 850 images on a charge. Price: $16.99 + $10.00 shipping.

What got sent was an NP-F550, which has a Charge Life of 150 minutes and will take 1,950 images on a charge. Price $29.99 + $10.00 shipping.

Strange thing about this Battery though: The Camera shows on the screen the Battery strength and amount of time left on the current (no pun intended) charge, and the Unit that came yesterday registered 298 minutes on the charge in the Battery right out of the package!

Yesterday, had to cut a limb off of a China Berry Tree that had grown over on to the top, and was weighing heavily on a structure that is attached to the North and East Side of the house. The task of removing that limb, getting off the top of the structure, and cutting the limb up took about an hour and a half with a chain saw, and a ladder. Got it done, but today am feeling the fatigue and pain from having done the deed.

Anyway, plan on tomorrow getting out to get Lorrie's Insurance, Registration Sticker, and NEW License Plates.

Will let you know how it goes.

Hang in there.

JC
Author:  JCAllison [ Thu Jun 21, 2012 4:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
That is a very cool...BOX! :lol:
Hey Mr. RC,
Thank you.
Quote:
I want something like that...
As far as has been found, Lorrie is the only 1967 P200 Postal Van still in existence, but there are other Postal Vans out there. Chevrolet, International, AMC, Grumman, and some others made them
Quote:
I would consider an oilchange, "clean" is not everything with oil, just saying...
Actually, Lorrie has gone almost 28,000 miles since NEW oil was put into her rebuilt Slant Six Engine back in 1985.

I have another vehicle: Ms. American 3.14159, who is the only 1964 Ford Galaxie 500, Four-Door, Hard-Top, Fast-Back, Police Interceptor that Google Finds on the whole World Wide Web.

She is less than 3,000 miles away from having 300,000 miles on her Odometer.

She puts up 80 psi of oil pressure at idle when started, settles to 60 psi at operating temperature. Doesn't burn any oil, and there is absolutely no sludge or residue build up anywhere in the Engine.

Ms. American has had a Frantz Oil Cleaner on her since she was bought NEW in 1964 by my father who was a Frantz Distributor.

She has had one oil change in her lifetime, and that was when NEW oil was put into her when her 390 P-Code FE Engine was rebuilt in 1989.

I appreciate your concern about Lorrie's lubrication, but the proof that the Frantz Oil Cleaning System works as advertised is evident in both Lorrie and Ms. American's longevity and engine's condition.

Hope this finds YOU doing well.

JC
Author:  JCAllison [ Mon Jun 25, 2012 9:59 am ]
Post subject: 
Hey All,
Monday Morning Update:

Got all ready to go this morning. Moved Ms. American out of Lorrie's way. Got in Lorrie and headed for the Inspection Station. Got there and Wayne, the Inspector looked Lorrie over, along with the rest of the personnel there. Gave them a bit of Lorrie's history, and they already KNEW about Ms. American. They all seemed to like both of these old critters.

So then Wayne had me honk the Horn, turn on the Windshield Wipers, turn on the Turn Signals and Flashers, had me turn on the Headlights, and he said: "You just blew the Left Front Headlight!". He said: "It came on, and then went "flash" and went out."

He had me turn on the Brights (they both worked).

Had me hit the Brakes to see if the Brake Lights worked and they DIDN'T!

Wayne checked the Insurance Documentation and said: "Get the Brake Lights to working and a NEW Headlight, and bring it back and we'll put the Sticker on her."

Brought Lorrie home and found that the Brake Light Switch Terminals were dirty. Cleaned them up and the Brake Lights work just fine.

Pulled the Left Front Headlight and swapped it with the Right Front Headlight and the Right Front Headlight worked just fine, so it's NOT the Wiring.

Am going to have Robert's wife, Rita pick up a Headlight for Lorrie from NAPA on her way home from work this evening. Will install it tonight, and head for the Inspection Station again tomorrow morning.

This all comes under the heading of: "Why can't ANYTHING be easy?"

Anyway, got a little overheated, and a little overdone, but will rest for the remainder of the day and be ready this evening to install the NEW Sealed Beam Headlight.

Will let you know how it goes.

Hope you all are well.

JC
Author:  Reed [ Mon Jun 25, 2012 10:24 am ]
Post subject: 
If you are shopping for new headlights, I HIGHLY recommend upgrading your headlights to GE Nighthawk headlamps. You won't need to change any wiring, but these headlamps greatly improve your ability to see at night. I got the ones on my 89 Ford van at my local Fred Meyer for about $10 each. You can also get them on Amazon.com.

I hear you about getting overheated. I used to be a stagehand for a living and before that I lived in Utah. At some point I got really bad heat exhaustion and now I am VERY susceptible to overheating and sunstroke. A wide brim hat and a big tarp strung up over my driveway are the only way I can work outside in the sun anymore.
Author:  Mroldfart2u [ Mon Jun 25, 2012 11:32 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Hey All,
Monday Morning Update:


This all comes under the heading of: "Why can't ANYTHING be easy?"

Hope you all are well.

JC
Of course NOT... As YOU have stated a few times, Lorrie is NOT 'ready' yet... When she is it will be a breeze...

Hope YOU get R&R'ed and are having a good afternoon...
Author:  JCAllison [ Mon Jun 25, 2012 2:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
If you are shopping for new headlights, I HIGHLY recommend upgrading your headlights to GE Nighthawk headlamps. You won't need to change any wiring, but these headlamps greatly improve your ability to see at night. I got the ones on my 89 Ford van at my local Fred Meyer for about $10 each. You can also get them on Amazon.com.
Hey Reed,
At this point, am pretty much going to have to just go with what can be acquired here.

Called NAPA and told them that what was needed was a 7" Round Sealed Beam Headlamp with Three Male Spade Terminals. The one that is being replaced is a Westinghouse Model M585 2.

Because of ill health, am confined to my home, and do not go out at night. Have to get out for food and other necessities, but never go anywhere unless absolutely necessary. Am sure that if it was absolutely necessary to get out at night, that the Headlights that are on Lorrie would suffice.

Am sure that were I thirty-five years younger, that the GE Nighthawk Headlamp would be a MUST. :)

Once had a 1967 VW Karmann Ghia that had a Luca Flamethrower Lamp mounted just a little SouthWest of the Driver's Side Headlight. When it was on it made a tunnel of light about a quarter mile long.
Quote:
I hear you about getting overheated. I used to be a stagehand for a living and before that I lived in Utah. At some point I got really bad heat exhaustion and now I am VERY susceptible to overheating and sunstroke.
The temperature here right now is 103 degrees, but there is a breeze and the humidity is unusually low for this area. Overheating is a problem for EVERYONE if what one is doing is outside.
Quote:
A wide brim hat
Have a cowboy hat here. Might should ought to start wearing it. Generally while working, a bandana keeps the sweat from getting in one's eyes.
Quote:
and a big tarp strung up over my driveway are the only way I can work outside in the sun anymore.
Fortunately, the area where Lorrie sat for sixteen years, two and a half of which were during her renovation, is heavily shaded.

There's occasionally a breeze which helps, but when the the air coming North off of the Gulf of Mexico couples with the respiration of the world's largest Pine Forest, the humidity gets to be in the order of 85 to 95%. Working outside just becomes impossible.

The heat indexes go into the 110s and even though one is perspiring like an equine, it doesn't cool one off because the sweat won't evaporate.

One ends up soaking wet, and finding it difficult to breathe.

When THAT happens, it's Air Conditioning, Box Fans, and cool shower time.

Lorrie's NEW Headlamp will hopefully be here this evening around 6:00 p.m. Will install it, and get it to working, and will head for the Inspection Station again tomorrow at 8:30 a.m.

Anyway, thanks for the tip on the GE Nighthawk Headlamps.

Will keep you updated.

JC
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