Interior dome (2) lights on the Barracuda have never worked since day 1 so I decided to fix them today. Both bulbs were blown so went to closest parts store and bought the last pack of 1004 bulbs on the shelf and put them in. Nothing. So I checked the socket with my test light and both pins had voltage also confirming ground was good. Took both bulbs to the battery and grounded the housing to the neg. side and the 2 pins on the underside to the pos. side and nothing, no light. So I returned both bulbs and went to the next part store and also bought the last pack of 1004 bulbs they had (strange that there is only 1 pack of these things again) Installed the bulbs and nothing. Rechecked with the battery test and jumpers and still could not get bulbs to light. So now I'm wondering is it possible 4 brand new bulbs are bad or am I doing something wrong in trying to confirm (test) the bulbs to see if they are actually bad? Thanks.

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64 barracuda
64 valiant convertable
65 valiant sedan
65 signet
74 vw beetle convertable
79 E-250 4WD van
94 dodge dakota

The bulb base shell is not used for ground on the #1004. There are two contacts on the base; one gets + and one gets - and then the bulb lights up.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'm getting + from both wires at the base?

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64 barracuda
64 valiant convertable
65 valiant sedan
65 signet
74 vw beetle convertable
79 E-250 4WD van
94 dodge dakota

I don't have schematics in front of me, but usually the dome and curtesy lights have +12V all the time and are grounded by the pin switches in the doors or by a contact in the headlight switch. In my cars that grounding wire I think was pink, but check you schematics.

If the door switches are open (doors closed) or not connected and the headlight ground is open (off) or not connected, you will always see +12V on both pins - the voltage will be there by traveling through the light bulbs, but w/o a ground connected no current will flow and the bulbs won't be lit. When the light ought to be on, one pin will be grounded. If you only have a dome light and remove the bulb, one ought to have 12V and the other would have nothing; if there are other bulbs present (under the dash) the 12V will find its way to both pins.

If you take a 12V test light (w/o its own battery) and measure from each pin at the light to ground, one will make the test light bright and the dome light will be off and the other will put the dome light and test light in series so both will light up somewhat dimly.

Good factory schematics are you best friend here. Good luck!

If that's actually the case, then something's wrong. With a front door open or the headlamp switch knob turned all the way to its counterclockwise stop, you should see (roughly) battery voltage across the two contacts at the bottom of the bulb socket.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I was getting +12v on both leads with the door open (using test light). Cleaning up after storm right now. Luckily for me and not my neighbor, the 4 trees I have my cars parked next to blew over into/onto his house and not the opposite way onto my cars. Too close for comfort but now the trees are no longer a concern. Heading up to Milwaukee tomorrow and hopefully will tackle this problem when I get back. Once again, thanks for the input and I will post what I find.........Kevin

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64 barracuda
64 valiant convertable
65 valiant sedan
65 signet
74 vw beetle convertable
79 E-250 4WD van
94 dodge dakota