After stockpiling parts for the past few years for the build I want to do when the clock turns to 00000 would be a good time for a rebuild. As the clock is now inside 700 for that, I firgured I'd do a Comp. Check as I've had the van for 9 years now and have never done it, so I had no idea as to how tired this Motor was/is.
I don't need a rebuild, I just need to stop all these oil leaks!!!!
I have no idea but appears to be a stock unbuilt motor.
#1--145
#2--145
#3--145
#4--150
#5--150
#6--140
I have a fully ported head, needs drilling for the bigger valves!
The Erson RV-15 Cam
K.B. .040 over pistons
Should I just yank the motor, replace the rear seal, install my Hot Head I want to build and the Cam? It doesn't seem like I need to touch the rotating assembly.
Opinions or Ideas? Thanks

Those look like good compression numbers. I would get some oil pressure readings and if the oil pressure readings are OK, then I would do as you say- yank the motor, fix the oil leaks, keep the short block, and install your goodies. Be sure to take the time to degree the cam and calculate the dynamic compression ratio to see if you can increase compression a bit.

Oil Pressure????? Let's see, I have run nothing but 10-40 w/a can STP since I got it. Pressure at cruz or Full out is 40-45, idle it can drop to about 10, but spool's up quick upon accel.

Sounds like fine oil pressure to me, although I prefer to run 5W-30 (synthetic if possible). I say pull it, clean it up, put on your parts and run it as is.

My oil pressure sits at 55 almost non stop - unless it's been running down the freeway in high heat - then at idle it can drop to the 35 or 40 zone.

I have been running Mobil1 5-30 since the rebuild ?-6 or 7 yrs. ago?(too lazy to look back and see and I'm horrrrrrriiiiffiiiick with dates)

I'm figurin with the new radiator - that will go away too.
I hope?

Yours sounds like it's in much better shape than mine was when I took it down.
It was a crop duster until it warmed up! lol

I'm with Reed
Of course being as broke as I am - taking the slow and low way seems to be normal for me - like 2na1/2days to install a freekin radiator????
Can you say OOOWWWW!!! LOLOL

anyway
have fun
dan

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

It's just a oily mess in the driveway, gotta do something! If I save a few $$ and just upgrade the cam & head. Would like to get the block milled but why ruin the bottom end for that? Maybe install a washer to kick up the oil pressure up a bit. Just a hot head and the cam and leave well enough alone.

Better get a response from those that know better than I for sure.

However, my thinking is - if you toughen up the top end then doesn't that put lots more pressure on the bottom end? Referring to the cam?

Not sure, but what you mention is what I tried to do - but as soon as I opened it up I found WAY more wrong with mine!

Good luck with the grand opening!! lol

Dan

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

along with the other stuff mentioned, I would also do a timing chain,, would be reason to re new the front cover gasket..

Be extremely careful cleaning the carbon out of the cylinders/piston tops or you will end up with an oil eating pig when you put your shiny new head on.

Me personally? I'd pull the head/pan and look around before I made my decision.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Don't take an old engine that has lived it's life on 10w40 and STP and throw 5w30 at it. You'll have broken rings and piston slap before you can shut it down.

While there are those that swear by the 5wxx oils, protection isn't the same thing with big clearances. With wear, the heavier oils will provide more protection.

10w40 is pretty heavy. If you've been throwing additives at it that tend to thicken it further, plan on rebuilding it prior to changing your lubrication plan.

If you do rebuild, a good rule is, never use additives of any sort unless you need them. STP and Lucas are for engines that have big clearances. If you plan to keep the short block as is, don't change what your doing. It will end in broken parts otherwise.

Zilla's got the winning ticket. Pull it down, measure everything, then do what you need to do. You choose what you want to run for oil and so forth. 10w40 is a heck of a load on the OP drive gear. 20w50 is way worse. I know people that run straight 50w racing, and don't have problems. If what is working for you works now, know that once you disturb the engine, it may not. Different cam, more compression, any changes whatsoever. These engines live long lives stock, that all goes out the window when we build them.

I run 10w30 in my current slant, and since I don't have engines machined "tight," won't run 5w-anything. I also don't put any additives of any sort in my engines.
My take on it is, if it needs an additive, it needs rebuilt.

2¢

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Heck, pick up a motor and do a rebuild. Go new. Drop the cam and head on it.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Pulling an engine from a van is a royal pain. Done it twice.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick