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Dutra Rear modification
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Author:  aspen76 [ Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:21 pm ]
Post subject:  Dutra Rear modification
I'm getting ready to modify the rear this weekend. I found out someone in the family knows how and is willing to weld for me so I'm ready to get this going but I've got a few questions.

First, I know the article says steel or iron for plate. Which will hold out longer when welded on?

Second, I'm looking to disassemble my heat riser set up to protect it from any stray heat. I've been looking at it and can't seem to figure how to do it without a hammer :wink: . Or do I only need to remove the tiny spring and wrap the rest in foil?

Third, What's the best way to clean the manifold? I don't need it brand new looking but clean enough to paint would be nice. The thing is pretty rusty as I pulled it out of a local salvage yard where it had been getting rained on and I even pulled it in the rain. Speaking of the rain, I've heard that getting anything cast iron wet is bad due to cast iron being porous. Is this true, and if so does grilling it at a low temperature for a day allow the water to evaporate out the pores?

And finally, do I have to do any modification to the stock exhaust to get it to take a 2" pipe? I plan to run dual 2" pipes. Haven't decided if I'll have them collect into a 2 1/4" Y or not.

Thanks for all the help,
Aspen76
Author:  Doc [ Mon Jul 02, 2012 4:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Dutra Rear modification
Quote:
I'm getting ready to modify the rear this weekend. I found out someone in the family knows how and is willing to weld for me so I'm ready to get this going but I've got a few questions.
Save the cut-off front section and some scrap steel to be used as welding "test pieces". Get the welding "dialed-in on those parts, then go to the actual piece.
Quote:
First, I know the article says steel or iron for plate. Which will hold out longer when welded on?
I use steel most of the time, it's easer to weld to.
Quote:
Second, I'm looking to disassemble my heat riser set up to protect it from any stray heat. I've been looking at it and can't seem to figure how to do it without a hammer :wink: . Or do I only need to remove the tiny spring and wrap the rest in foil?
Remove the small spring and wrap in foil... done.
Quote:
Third, What's the best way to clean the manifold? I don't need it brand new looking but clean enough to paint would be nice. The thing is pretty rusty as I pulled it out of a local salvage yard where it had been getting rained on and I even pulled it in the rain. Speaking of the rain, I've heard that getting anything cast iron wet is bad due to cast iron being porous. Is this true, and if so does grilling it at a low temperature for a day allow the water to evaporate out the pores?
Sand Blast or bead blast is best.
Do not worry about a wet manifold, a little pre-heating will take care of that.
Quote:
And finally, do I have to do any modification to the stock exhaust to get it to take a 2" pipe? I plan to run dual 2" pipes. Haven't decided if I'll have them collect into a 2 1/4" Y or not.
Thanks for all the help,
Aspen76
The factory outlet is 2 inch so you are good to go with that.
DD
Author:  aspen76 [ Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
Very cool, Thanks Doc
Great idea with testing on the cut off pieces, wouldn't have thought of that.
What kind of places do bead/sand blasting? And how much does it usually cost to get done? Should I get it done before I get it welded or after?
Thanks for all the help,
Aspen76
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