It use to work bitchen and never roll down any incline when in gear. I found an intake leak at the base of the carter bbs. So while I was replacing base gasket I noticed gas has been finding its way up and out of the vent. So I opened it up to check float level and it was a bot too high. Float measured .2000 from top of bowl. So I set it between 7/32 and 1/4 which was .2300. For good measure I sprayed all the passages with carb spray and some air. Put it back together drove it around neighborhood went up the driveway send all of a sudden started rolling down when I let off. Checked rpms timing and mixture adjustment. Innoticed when checking timing, disconnecting vacuum advance. It didn't seem to drop down idle very much. It seems to pull less vacuum unless I crank open the idle screw a bit more.

But after I fiddled with it I went to take for another spin. In reverse I starters hearing loud clicking. Stoped, put in drive. Rolled down hill a little still clicking before I can reach glad peddle. Drove up the driveway no clicking. Back in reverse more clicking then stopped. Now doesn't click anymore but still won't stay still on incline

No idea on if it's related to vacuum or the clicking... (trans?)

automatic or standard?

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Auto 904

Whether it'll stay still or creep at idle in Drive on a level road, and whether it'll stay put or head backwards at idle in Drive pointed uphill, is completely dependent on engine idle speed. If you were able to stay still (not roll down) when pointed up a hill before, your idle speed was probably too high.
The new one, or the old one?
If there's an actual stream of liquid fuel, that's bad. If it's just residual/occasional drip, that's normal condensation.
From top of bowl to…what part of float, measured how?
With new gasket(s) or old?
Idle speed is?
Base ignition timing is?
It shouldn't. There should not be significant vacuum at the spark advance port at idle.
Not related to carburetor.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

This all with the new carb I received from you Dan. I checked float level upside down with retainer clip in place with slight pressure. Used a straight edge and calipers. Then subtracted the thickness of the straight edge to get my measurement. Measured from top of bowl to center of float. Also I reused the gaskets. I will probably get new ones. The onesIn place when received were actually very crusty. So was sealing surface of carb. I had to brass wire brush to clean most of it off that's why I went ahead and cleaned through it to make sure no crust was inside. I also had to put a dab of loctite on the vacuum advance nipple since it pulled out the first time I checked timing. None of this is a big deal. I still have a slight vacuum leak and it maybe from reusing carb gaskets.

So far I haven't been able to get it to idle perfectly smooth always shakes and makes things rattle. At the moment I have it idling 650-700rpm with 5degrees. Before when it would putt uphill it was idling at 600-650 and with vacuum connected it was st about 12degrees. Then would drop down to 5 when hose was removed. Vacuum leak may had something to do with excessive vacuum. Right now at 650rpm hose on or off is stays at 5 degrees

This all with the new carb I received from you Dan. I checked float level upside down with retainer clip in place with slight pressure. Used a straight edge and calipers. Then subtracted the thickness of the straight edge to get my measurement. Measured from top of bowl to center of float. Also I reused the gaskets. I will probably get new ones. The onesIn place when received were actually very crusty. So was sealing surface of carb. I had to brass wire brush to clean most of it off that's why I went ahead and cleaned through it to make sure no crust was inside. I also had to put a dab of loctite on the vacuum advance nipple since it pulled out the first time I checked timing. None of this is a big deal. I still have a slight vacuum leak and it maybe from reusing carb gaskets.

So far I haven't been able to get it to idle perfectly smooth always shakes and makes things rattle. At the moment I have it idling 650-700rpm with 5degrees. Before when it would putt uphill it was idling at 600-650 and with vacuum connected it was st about 12degrees. Then would drop down to 5 when hose was removed. Vacuum leak may had something to do with excessive vacuum. Right now at 650rpm hose on or off is stays at 5 degrees

To quote the famous squirrel philosopher Rocky, "That trick never works!". New gaskets and inlet needle/seat are a good idea on any new old stock carburetor anyhow. Get a kit from www.daytonaparts.com ; it has a better inlet needle/seat design. You'll have to recheck the float.
Those dang things always do that. No big deal though, you fixed it correctly.
What was the idle like before?
Those are good settings.
The "now" way is correct (except for the rough idle). The "before" way is wrong.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

With old carb it idled just as bumpy. I have it converted to factory mopar electronic ignition. New rebuilt dist everything l, I checked to make sure everything is tight before installing. Valves are adjusted to cam makers specs. The idle likes to bounce around 650-700 rpm every once in a whiLe it will hit 725. I'll just have to get rid of that vacuum leak and see if it fixes it. It is a very small one though only one small area is affected by a blast of carb spray, and it hardly rises idle.