Hello,

I am having some issues with my car still, while getting better, it is not 100% yet. The issue we are discussing here is hesitation in the throttle - when you accelerate from a stop, the car hesitates and sometimes stalls. Originally, before my most recent carb work, I basically had to floor the pedal and 'hope' it doesn't stall. Now the hesitation is better, but not gone yet.

I paid to have the carb rebuilt previously. The mechanic at the time said that he thought the carb just needed to be replaced; thought it had problems - but didn't or couldn't explain further.

I recently took the carb apart and put another new kit on there for myself to see if I can figure things out for myself. During the rebuild, I found that the screws that held the body in place were stripped - 1 in particular just pulled right out. The other major thing to note here (plus my change) is that it was equipped with a #52 jet. I went to my local parts store and all they had was a #62. Well, due to my impatience, I went ahead and bought it and installed it. To overcome my issue with the screws (mainly just the one), I flattened the tip of the screw with a hammer and screwed it in - and it did set. I am sure it was not the proper thing to do, but it worked. At this point, I cannot seem to get the air/fuel ratio 'just right' (and yes I used the document that this forum provides to do it). The car starts fine. It also runs mostly fine - still a little hesitation, but is marginal. The hesitation is just a small blip on the pedal, not the entire pedal.

Might it be because the jet size it too big (now I am flooding it instead of starving it)? Or should that size work and I just need to work with it more? It definitely is a bit rich. If I need to install a smaller jet, how should I overcome my screw problem?

If I need to replace the carb, what should I go with. Thoughts on upgrading to a dual barrel carb?

As always, I appreciate all your help.
Thank you.

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1974 Plymouth Duster

Have you bypassed the OSAC valve yet? Check to see where the hose from the distributor hooks up. If its other end is on a widget on the air cleaner housing, and then there's another hose from there to the carburetor, eliminate the widget and go directly from distributor to carburetor.


Stripped carb body screws = vacuum leaks. Does sound like you're about due for a new carburetor.

2bbl conversion requires intake manifold, carburetor, air cleaner, throttle cable, and (if the car's an automatic) kickdown linkage complete.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes, I have bypassed the OSAC valve. The vacuum advance pod on the distributor goes directly to the "distributor spark advance control (OSAC) valve on the carb.

The "crankcase vent (PCV) valve" goes to the PCV valve (new).

The "charcoal canister purge port" goes to the charcoal canister.

The "EGR vacuum amplifier" is currently capped off. Should it be?

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1974 Plymouth Duster

I would leave the EGR capped off at least for now, yes. You've verified that the vacuum advance in the distributor is good, not blown, and that its hose is also good?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes. The vacuum advance has been replaced and the hose that connects the two is new. The distributor itself was rebuilt by D.Idiot. I reinstalled it and timed the engine to 5TDC.

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1974 Plymouth Duster