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frt end bushings
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49626		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  bikeymikey [ Mon Aug 20, 2012 11:38 pm ]
Post subject:  frt end bushings
Hey all,

My new to me 1966 Dart wagon 225 pulls horribly to the left and clunks when I apply the brakes. A quick roll under the front end revealed a non existent passenger side strut rod bushing. It is my understanding that if I have to replace it, the LCA has to come off, along with the torsion bar and UCA. So I might as well replace the bushings for those as well.

I have been looking around for bushings (and kits) and I'm having a hard time figuring out which type to get. The reason for my confusion is that I'm finding that there seems to be two different designs for the strut rod bushings.

Do you have a preferred kit to use? I don't have sway bars. I prefer rubber, as this is going to be my wife's get around town with the kidlings car.


Thanks in advance, Mike
Author:  VDART [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 4:02 am ]
Post subject: 
Don't have a preferred vendor for the bushings-- but use the improved design strut rod bushing. It is a 2 piece whereas the original is a 1 piece item, Lawrence
Author:  wjajr [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:12 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
It is a 2 piece whereas the original is a 1 piece item, Lawrence

I second that; get the improved two piece set. It is basically what was used on the B body cars.
Author:  bikeymikey [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:12 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Don't have a preferred vendor for the bushings-- but use the improved design strut rod bushing. It is a 2 piece whereas the original is a 1 piece item, Lawrence
Great! Thanks for clarifying that for me.

Mike
Author:  ValiantBoyWonder [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 7:50 am ]
Post subject: 
mike,
to replace strut rod bushings after you've loosen both strut rod nuts- loosen lower control arm and take the torsion bar clips out the back. get a big pry bar and pry the lower control arm backwards- all the way so the strut slides out. don't forget to torque them properly and also the cupped side of the giant washer faces out.

careful handling things around the k-member. i fumbled one of my bushings in my clumsy fat hands and i lost it down an opening in the k-member :roll:

never to be seen again :?
Author:  bikeymikey [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
mike,
to replace strut rod bushings after you've loosen both strut rod nuts- loosen lower control arm and take the torsion bar clips out the back. get a big pry bar and pry the lower control arm backwards- all the way so the strut slides out. don't forget to torque them properly and also the cupped side of the giant washer faces out.

careful handling things around the k-member. i fumbled one of my bushings in my clumsy fat hands and i lost it down an opening in the k-member :roll:

never to be seen again :?
thanks for the heads up.
regarding the method you describe, is it the one to use it if i don't want to replace the LCA and UCA bushings? it sounds like it doesn't require the removal of the LCA.
Author:  polara pat [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 9:14 am ]
Post subject: 
Anybody else having dejavu?
Author:  ValiantBoyWonder [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 1:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yes. Its a way to do it if you dont want to remove Uca and Lca. Thanks to Doc, he's the one who told me about it.
Author:  bikeymikey [ Tue Aug 21, 2012 8:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Yes. Its a way to do it if you dont want to remove Uca and Lca. Thanks to Doc, he's the one who told me about it.
nice.

i might just go that route.
Author:  WagonsRcool [ Wed Aug 22, 2012 10:27 am ]
Post subject: 
Just be sure to take a close look at the lca bushings while you're there. If the strut rod bushings are gone then I wouldn't be surprised if the lca bushings were wasted as well. (Those'll give you wack handling when they go).

When it's time to go together, don't forget that the front suspension needs to be at normal ride height before tightening the lca pivots to spec.
Author:  bikeymikey [ Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Just be sure to take a close look at the lca bushings while you're there. If the strut rod bushings are gone then I wouldn't be surprised if the lca bushings were wasted as well. (Those'll give you wack handling when they go).

When it's time to go together, don't forget that the front suspension needs to be at normal ride height before tightening the lca pivots to spec.
right on. they looks pretty good from here, but i'm wondering if it's like what i saw on my volvo. bushings that look good on the surface, but when you take them out, it's not so pretty.

i might as well go 'head and do it all. the only special tool i need is for the UBJ, am i correct?
Author:  WagonsRcool [ Fri Aug 24, 2012 2:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
The uBJ socket is the only "special" tool (some have used a large pipe wrench, but the correct socket is preferred). It can be easier to loosen the BJ if the CA is still attached to the car - otherwise you'll want a big vise that's securely mounted to a bench- that's securely mounted to the floor or wall.

If you don't have (or know someone who has) a shop press with the needed adapters, you'll need lots of cleverness to R & R the CA bushings. (vise, C-clamps, air chisels, sockets with threaded rod, MacGyver, etc)
Author:  ValiantBoyWonder [ Fri Aug 24, 2012 5:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... +socket+12

Try that for ubj socket.
Author:  bikeymikey [ Fri Aug 24, 2012 11:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
The uBJ socket is the only "special" tool (some have used a large pipe wrench, but the correct socket is preferred). It can be easier to loosen the BJ if the CA is still attached to the car - otherwise you'll want a big vise that's securely mounted to a bench- that's securely mounted to the floor or wall.

If you don't have (or know someone who has) a shop press with the needed adapters, you'll need lots of cleverness to R & R the CA bushings. (vise, C-clamps, air chisels, sockets with threaded rod, MacGyver, etc)
thanks. i don't know anyone with a shop press and adapters, i guess i'll have to make do with what i've got. i work at a bike shop and have tons of seatposts. their ODs come in .2mm increments so i may be able to fabricate some adapters.
Quote:
http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... +socket+12

Try that for ubj socket.
yess! i'll try that.
Author:  2 Darts [ Mon Aug 27, 2012 9:59 am ]
Post subject: 
The UCA does not have to come off. The LCA can be separated either at the ball joint or at the backing plate. You will need stout support for the UCA and spindle while working on the TB, LCA, and control rod.

FWIW: Usually when the UBJs have been in the control arm for a while, they can be very difficult to remove. When removing the UBJ, I use the special socket, a breaker bar, and a 6' "cheater" bar. I once broke a ½" ratchet head on this job using the cheater. Thank you for tools with lifetime guarantees.
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