On a friend's 64 273 Barracuda, I need to remove the left side instrument panel cover to monkey with/adjust the push-button shifter cables. To do so the headlight and wiper swith need to come out.
I see I can (I hope) rotate the bezel off with a small screwdriver or pliers, but how do the knobs come off first? I've read that on some models, you reach behind and depress a plunger on the back of the switch shaft, then pull out?

Thanks a lot.

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1964 Barracuda Commando 273 (friend's)

See here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That's the process I read, but wasn't sure it applied. Thanks a lot. This Baccaruda has been hibernating 2-3 years, now running well but still needs some fixes.
If it's the original 273 Commando, does it have mechanical lifters? The shop manual I have is not that clear. I guess I could pull off a valve cover and look. Is there a giveaway ID as to the engine? I can't find any obvious casting or stamped numbers.
Has an original Chrysler four-barrel manifold and Carter AVS carb, with what appears to be a 1971 date code on the brass tag.
Andrew

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1964 Barracuda Commando 273 (friend's)

It's not. Not if it's a '64. The Commando package didn't become available until mid-'65 production. The final-edition 1964 factory parts catalogue (printed March '65) contains no part numbers for a 4bbl version of the 273.
Yes, the 273 (2bbl and 4bbl alike) had solid lifters through 1967.
Maybe not original to this engine/car.
273-4bbls used an AFB.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So going from the Chrysler intake and 1971-ish carb, maybe I have a 71ish 318 in here? Is there a definitive way to tell a 273 from a 318, other than pulling a valve cover and seeing if it has valve adjustment?
Andrew

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1964 Barracuda Commando 273 (friend's)

The engine displacement is cast into the side of the engine in 2 inch tall letters. I believe it is the drivers side but I don't recall precisely. Slide under it and look up between the exhaust manifold and the head. I don't believe they made a 318 4 barrel until the 80's (could be wrong). I also believe 71 340's used the thermoquad not the avs. I could be wrong on that also. You could look through the oil fill cap and see if it has the adjustable rocker, but if the baffles are in place you likely won't see much.

They did, but not in the US or Canada. Chrysler Australia sold the "Fireball 318" 4bbl engine starting in '69 or so. Chrysler de Mexico might well have done similarly, and possibly Chrysler South Africa (not sure on those two).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Baffle is inside valve cover, can't see. Will look for casting info, thanks.

Got the manifolds loose to fix exhaust leaks, but they're not coming out of the car without lifting the engine several inches. That alone seems like a clue the engine/manifold combo is not original, and downpipes are custom jobs that are well made, but twist, turn, and change from round to flattish to get past steering, starter, torsion bars. Driver's side manifold flares upward to clear the steering, has the outlet in the middle, in front of manual steering box. Pass side flares downward, outlet at the rear. They have numbers on them, forgot to write down.

Manifold has Chrysler number on it, will write down too.

Light switch gave up its knob/shaft, but wiper switch (turns on, not pulls on) is reluctant. I cannot feel or see a release plunger on it to release the shaft.

Andrew

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1964 Barracuda Commando 273 (friend's)

Plunger is only on headlamp switch. Wiper switch knob is held on by setscrew.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks again. Out of my normal roaming territory (Alfas, Fiats, VWs) I feel kinda stupid. Did the engineers try to make this difficult?
Andrew

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1964 Barracuda Commando 273 (friend's)

Block numbers are behind the starter. Block shows 4006730 - 318, date apparently 5/4/76. So a 1976 318?
Four BBL Intake manifold is 2531915-1, then 07257.
Left exhaust is 2863553, right I can't see.
Carb brass tag (Carter AVS) shows 6125 S then 0771 then 44.

Got the dash switches out, thanks. Shifter issue may be that the left-most cable is not held in its crimp on the housing. That is, it's free-floating. This car's symptoms are (1) have to push in R and N to get the starter neutral switch to engage, and (2) getting R is a sometime thing. Various tries are required to get it to go into R.

Andrew

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1964 Barracuda Commando 273 (friend's)

'76-'79 318. It's to be hoped that whoever swapped this engine into this car put the necessary 1/8" annular spacer ring between the (larger) later crankshaft snout and the (smaller) earlier torque converter nose. If no spacer ring, everything will bolt up and work, but the transmission front pump bushing and seal will be subject to rapid wear.
Where do you find that date? Look for the engine stamping (not casting) number on the front of the block just below the left cylinder head.
That's an intake from a 1968 340 engine. Wonder what cylinder heads are on this engine!
'68-'71 A-body (+'70 E-body) 340. The matching right one would be 2863549. Now even more curious what heads are on this engine. Later A-body exhaust manifolds ('67-up) in early A-body cars ('64-'66) kinda sorta fit but almost not quite, which sounds like what you were describing earlier.
'71 383 with automatic trans. Oversized for the application; probably better mileage and driveability with no real loss of performance from a more appropriately-sized carb, but if the car runs well and gets decent MPGs may as well leave it alone.
Yep, that'll do it. If the crimp claw is broken off, find another pushbutton box (interchange '63-'64 Dart, Valiant, Barracuda -- someone on here will have a spare). If the cable's damaged, new ones are available. While you have the button box out, lube it with CRC red label "Heavy Duty" silicone spray.

Do you have the factory service manual for this car? You'll need it!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

5/4/76 is cast, not stamped, in the block, near the starter and the casting number.

Car doesn't seem to have the power I would expect, but I've only just gotten to know it. My Scamp with a 1980 318 two-barrel ran better. Haven't done a compression test, etc. Runs on all 8, is smooth. Carb mixture screws were both 4 to 4.5 turns out, literally about to fall out. Turned them in to the more normal 1 turn out, will go from there when I re-fire-it-up to see how it is. I appreciate that there are mega unknowns here.

Can't tell gas mileage because gauge doesn't agree with sending unit in plastic RCI fuel cell, in spare tire well. Original tank is gone. I don't understand why; this is not a race car and original structure all looks intact and strong, except what someone cut out for the cell.

Have the shop manual, yes, with the detailed explanation of setting shifter cables. Hoping not to have to deal with that if the cable clamps back in OK!

Thanks again.

Andrew

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1964 Barracuda Commando 273 (friend's)

OK…what's the stamped number say?
Have you checked ignition timing? Checked timing chain slack?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yes, checked timing, it was a couple degrees retarded, advanced slightly. Advance works.

Where is the stamped block number?

Many small electrical fixes over the weekend. Some cobbling, a lot of it just old wires with dying insulation. That makes me nervous.

Andrew

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1964 Barracuda Commando 273 (friend's)