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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:13 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:46 am
Posts: 43
Location: Gainesville, Florida
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I received my super six components. I have two immediate questions. The seller did not include the lever at the trannsmission for the kickdown. You can see the end in the photo. Will mine already on the car work? Or, do I need to try to get him to send it? Secondly, I need to clean up and paint the components before installation. It would be easier to do this if I separate the intake and exhaust. Should I leave them as they are? Or will separating them not make a big deal? These things are quite heavy!! Thank you.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 4:31 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13265
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Quote:
The seller did not include the lever at the trannsmission for the kickdown. You can see the end in the photo. Will mine already on the car work? Or, do I need to try to get him to send it?
The original would be nice, if easily available, but is not necessary.
Quote:
Secondly, I need to clean up and paint the components before installation. It would be easier to do this if I separate the intake and exhaust. Should I leave them as they are? Or will separating them not make a big deal? These things are quite heavy!!
If you are serious about doing a nice paint job, separate them. Be ready to replace the two outboard bolts because they will break. THis is actually fine because replacing them with new bolts will allow you to install the manifolds properly using the correct method described int he factory service manual. I say separate them, clean and paint as desire, the reassemble and install with grade 8 bolts and Remflex gaskets.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24786
Location: North America
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There are lots of different transmission levers. They differ in length and clocking of the D-hole. The wrong one will prevent you getting a workable kickdown adjustment so the transmission will either not upshift correctly or not downshift correctly. That doesn't answer whether the one you now have will or won't work with the 2bbl kickdown, but if it's possible for the seller to send the lever, he should do so.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 6:17 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:46 am
Posts: 43
Location: Gainesville, Florida
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Understood. I've sent a request to get the part. I can only hope at this point. If not, I deal with what have. Looks a bit more complex than I envisioned. Another learning curve here I come! I'm sure I'll have additional questions. Thank you all for your help.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 8:58 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13265
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
This brings up a topic i have wanted to have addressed even since I learned about the different trans kickdown lever D-hole clocking and arm length: would it be possible to create a database of the various versions of the trans lever and their original application?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 10:00 pm 
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Database of different levers: Probably yes. I bet Pat Blais has at least an informal start at this.

By application: much, much harder.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 5:55 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Dec 08, 2007 9:48 pm
Posts: 570
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Quote:
Secondly, I need to clean up and paint the components before installation. It would be easier to do this if I separate the intake and exhaust. Should I leave them as they are? Or will separating them not make a big deal? These things are quite heavy!!
Quote:
If you are serious about doing a nice paint job, separate them. Be ready to replace the two outboard bolts because they will break. THis is actually fine because replacing them with new bolts will allow you to install the manifolds properly using the correct method described int he factory service manual. I say separate them, clean and paint as desire, the reassemble and install with grade 8 bolts and Remflex gaskets.
I second the motion to take it apart. No telling how good the bolts are and it's not that hard. Probably leaks anyway so you will want to get the new gasket that is all over the boards (2 different suppliers).

Make certain that all the ports line up flat where it bolts to the head so as not to put any undue pressure on your new bolts and gasket. I would also make a cardboard template of the head ports and make sure all the ports line up.

They didn't have any quality control back then and I'd bet very few just line up with the head ports. Just takes a little grinding with a rotary file on a Dremel-like tool /die grinder to make all the ports match the head.

Allow for expansion of the exhaust so that it matches hot. Matching it cold helps some I guess but when it gets hot it will not match. The intake doesn't expand but probably won't match cold.

Danny


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