When I first got my 64 v200 a year ago, the temp and gas gauges always read low. I assumed those gauges were busted, until a few days ago they began to always read high..

What could cause this? The FSM says both pegging high points to a faulty voltage regulator, but would the symptom happen suddenly like this?

I know less than nothing about electrical, so the only things remotely such that I have done are replace some broken fuses, hook in the mysteriously unconnected horn wire, and install the horn ring. This gauge pegging happened quite some days after all of that work.

Lemme know what y'all think.

Thanks!

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64 Valiant, 225 w/904tf

The factory voltage regulator used a set of points that open & closed constantly to create a voltage "near" 5 volts. When they fail they either stick open or stick closed. When the stick open your gauges just don't work, when they stick closed they send 12 volts straight to the gauges and fry them.

Go ahead and replace it with a solid state voltage regulator. I bought one off ebay already assembled for $15 and installed it in my truck. It works great and the gauges don't float around like they used to.

If you are handy with soldering and electronics you can make your own out of parts from radioshack. Just do a google search on "mopar solid state IVR".

Don't drive the car anymore or even turn the key to the "on" position until you get that regulator replaced. If it's stuck closed you will be trying to find another set of gauges.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Ok so it sounds like no more driving until I can replace the regulator.. I have two questions:

1 - do I need to remove the instrument panel to do it?
2 - I saw an article on using I think the 68 regulator as a substitute, I have it bookmarked so I can find it again and use as a guide, but what about disabling the current regulator?

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64 Valiant, 225 w/904tf

I'm not sure if the 64 is that way (ask Dan) but on the later model mopars you just simply reach up behind the instrument panel and unplug it. It has three prongs on it. On my Duster I had to remove the cluster to get to it, but on my pickup I was able to lay in the floorboard and reach up to it.

I think the early A-body cars had a voltage regulator that was built into the gas gauge. Not sure though.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

It is times like this when a factory service manual comes in really handy. No repairing by guess and by golly- simply look up your answer and know it is correct. If you are going to work on your own car, the first and best tool you should and can buy is the factory service manual.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Sorry for the misunderstanding, I do have the FSM actually and it does indicate that the current regulator is built into the gas gauge.

I was just hoping to get the benefit of advice from anyone who's already done the mod since like I said I'm completely inexperienced with electronics.

I'm gonna try just disabling the current gauge right away, hopefully without having to remove the panel, and then I'll install an external regulator as soon as I can scrounge the $50ish needed for it... That way I can drive the car until then.

Thanks guys, I'll let you know how it goes!

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64 Valiant, 225 w/904tf