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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 4:32 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 11:09 am
Posts: 59
Car Model:
it's a 1970 225 slant six 1920 single barrel and the PO didnt have the plunger hooked up, just the springs jerry rigged so as with many things that weren't hooked up rite on this car I straightend the rod out and got it hooked up with ease and it works! (glad I didnt buy one) anyhow It seems to choke at too high of an rpm and last to long, I have been warming it up for a few minutes and then letting it roll itself down to the first stop from home about 3/4mile and it kicks down to a nice regular idle at the stop sign. I'm having a little trouble getting it to choke at a bit lower idle and not sure I have the springs in the exact rite spots, any pics of one hooked up right or links to how too's would be great.

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1970 dart swinger \six


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:46 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
Look at the manual posted in Engine FAQ.

"Holley 1920 operation and repair manual"

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 9:01 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 11:09 am
Posts: 59
Car Model:
That is a great PDF and i have printed it out for my carb rebuild, but my question still remains as it does not show where I attach the two return springs, and I am not sure if there is only one thats supposed to be there. I would say they are are throttle return springs and one looks like it's been there since 1970 and one is realy new looking, I removed the newer looking one and left the stock one in place thats hooked to the throttle arm and to a tab on the on the plunger thermostat at the manifold, It seems to work but would like it all to be correct for a propper rebuild. And another note, where is the float bowl vent tube supposed to be routed? mine was capped off wich I know cant be right so I uncapped it and left it open with no hose but in this PDF I can see it with a hose but no mention of where it's supposed to go. Thanks again folks

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1970 dart swinger \six


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 12:30 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
Car Model:
Click on the red link below my name and take a look at the spring on mine.

Do you have a vapor canister on yours? in front of the alternator in the corner.
Take a look at mine. The vent may be open on your year car (no canister) however, on mine (1974) it is routed to the canister. The canister is labeled. Also run a search on this site for pictures on vapor canister hose routing, and take a look at my pictures.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 12:48 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 11:09 am
Posts: 59
Car Model:
Cool thanks so much Ted, thoses are the pics I havent been able to find, heading out to compare now, one thing for sure is your angles on the plunger arm are way different and may get me some better movement out of it. I dont have a canister thats for sure but from what I gather it's not a neccesity.

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1970 dart swinger \six


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 2:36 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24522
Location: North America
Car Model:
The description of your problem is not adequate for us to help you. Too much "The thingy was bent and the springs are different but I put the plunger high" type of language that could mean anything. You'll have to post some pictures, please.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 3:22 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 11:09 am
Posts: 59
Car Model:
It's ok Dan between Ted's pic's and the 1920 carb link I got it goin now, in general I need to post some pic's of the new ride sometime soon. It's been doin great though I drive it to work every day and scored it for $1,300 stripped down and in boxes.

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1970 dart swinger \six


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 2:59 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2010 3:24 pm
Posts: 35
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Car Model:
The vent hose may get routed to the crankcase - on my slant as I recall it attaches to the fuel pump.

Previous 1920 models (of which I have) just vented to atmosphere. It will make little difference to driveability if it is connected to the proper location.
It was an early attempt at emission control.

Once you have your springs sorted get a new choke tstat, they are inexpensive and easy to change.

Then you can set your fast idle if it isnt at spec with the new choke tstat pull off.

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The car I am restoring is a 1971 Valiant 4 door with a slant 6 - 225 engine.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 11:41 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 11:09 am
Posts: 59
Car Model:
warmed up much smoother and taking less time this morning, I tweeked the choke plunger rod a little to make sure it wasnt rubbing the housing on the manifold or hitting carb parts, got the fast and curb idle and choke setting adjusted nicely, also messed with the mixture screw a tad and got it purring well enough to set my coffee cup on the motor while idleing and doesnt smell gassy at all. I did get a squirt from the carb after getting up to temp, shut it down and manualy opened the throttle so I take it excerater pump is working. I found some pics of the float bowl vent not hooked to anything on a stock 69 dart so i just put about a four inch chunk of hose on it so if it purges it wont be on the carb or exhaust. Thanks again folks maybe my terms arent always correct but it keeps getting smoother with all your help.

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1970 dart swinger \six


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