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| Removing the Head with the manifolds attached? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50021 |
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| Author: | cw6er [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | Removing the Head with the manifolds attached? |
Need to replace the head gasket only and It looks like it is possible to remove the Head with the manifolds attached and was wondering if someone who has done this has any tips, tricks or warnings? It is in an '81 Dodge Pickup. How heavy is the head, can one person pull it off? (How much more with the manifolds attached?) How does one get to the things back by the firewall? I can't even lean in far enough (even using a step stool) to see the rear manifold bolts without using an inspection mirror let a lone touch them! (Hence the question on removing the head with the manifolds attached). Do I need to remove the hood and climb into the engine bay? |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Head by itself is close to 80 pounds. Leaning over the fender of a truck and trying to remove the head by yourself is how you get a hernia. Both can be removed at once, if you have an engine hoist to lift it off with. As far as getting to it, I've replaced the manifolds on my truck with the engine installed, yes I had to crawl over in the engine bay to get to stuff on the back side, but you shouldn't have a problem. These old trucks have a flat firewall and the engine isn't recessed into the passenger compartment like it is on a Chevrolet. |
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| Author: | DadTruck [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:49 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
the head with the manifolds attached would be a load,, probably could be done, but you will need an engine hoist,, next problem would be finding a place to hook the hoist chains to to get it to half way balance. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have removed the head and manifolds as an assembly several times, and I strongly recommend against doing it unless you have a hoist of some sort. I did it without a hoist when I was young and stupid. If you are of a stature such that you cannot reach the manifold to head nuts by bending over the fender, then you really have no chance of pulling the head and manifolds as an assembly without a hoist. Since you are working on a truck, you may have enough room to remove the head bolts and rig up some kind of frame that will brace on the fenders and pick the head up about six inches. This will give you enough room to pull the old head gasket out and slip a new one in, assuming that the sealing surfaces are clean. Or, maybe you can just push the head and manifold assembly over towards the driver's side of the car and block it up or tie it off to something while you replace the gasket and clean the surfaces. The truly correct and best way to replace the head gasket it to pull the head completely, though. That way you can clean the mating surfaces and the combustion chamber and check the overall condition of the valves and pistons. |
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| Author: | ceej [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I've done it. Use the hoist, and be very careful when putting the head back on. It's very easy to damage the new head gasket. It is best to have a couple people guiding it back into place. Don't forget to have the new bypass hose in place prior to setting it back on. The bypass hose can be installed after the fact, but it's a royal pain in the putookus.  CJ |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 2:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Can it be done? Surely. Should it be done? Not unless you for some strange reason have no choice. It really is easier and less problem-prone to remove the manifolds. |
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| Author: | Doc [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 5:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Remove the manifolds, then remove the lower row of manifolds mounting studs from the head, then have the head resurfaced... so it is clean, flat and gives the engine some additional compression. Then re-assemble with a new head gasket. DD |
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| Author: | akbmotorsports [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | hello |
hello cw6er. didn't know there is another forum member here in columbus. if you decide to have the headwork done, Zimmermans race shop in greensburg is familiar with the slant. they just did all my machine work. i have a new fel pro head gasket and in/ex manifold gasket i am not going to use if you need them. just let me know. andy. |
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| Author: | mcnoople [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:11 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The time that I pulled a slant head with the manifolds attached I used an old pitted with rust slant rocker shaft bolted in place with an engine hoist. I wrapped an old timing belt off of a 2.2 chrysler around the shaft and hooked that to the hoist. In hindsight it wasn't the best way to do it. I should have used a pair of rachet straps instead of the t-belt. |
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| Author: | ESP47 [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
How big are you? I wasn't able to reach the rear manifold studs in my old 84 D100 so I just climbed in the engine bay and sat on the drivers inner fender and did the back side of the manifolds from there. Wasn't comfortable but it beat removing the hood and/or breaking my back. Definitely have someone help you put the head on. The first time I tried to put a head on was just with an old rusted out block where I just wanted to attach the head to keep everything together. Anyway I probably slid that head around on the block for 10 minutes before the damn thing went into place. If I had a gasket in between there would have been nothing left by time I was done with it. |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Wed Oct 10, 2012 3:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm 6'1 and wound up leaning way over on the fender to reach the back manifold studs. Until the milk crate shot out from under me. On mine I've found that if you climb in the bay you can put one of your feet on the motor mount, and the other on the frame. Just don't step on any power steering hoses. As far as the hood goes, I was able to pull the entire engine out of my 82 D150 without removing the hood. I just removed the front bolts on the hood to hinge bracket, loosened the back ones just a hair, and them placed a piece of wood betwen the hood bracket and the hood. This will allow you to get the hood almost vertical. Just don't force it. |
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| Author: | Eric W [ Wed Oct 10, 2012 5:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote:
Until the milk crate shot out from under me.
I hate when that happens...
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| Author: | 63gtcv [ Wed Oct 10, 2012 7:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Best mechanic I ever known told me that a Holley 4bbl was good for standing on to work on a real engine. Stand on that. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Oct 10, 2012 7:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Lol.... |
I'd advise the use of the hoist, even over the fender of an A-body with two Rob's handling it, it wasn't good for either of our backs...(but it makes it easier to access the bottom rear studs if rusted or hard to get...and definately nice if removing a hyperpak and duals for accessibility...) It's not so nice in car if you used head mounting studs and have to remove it...it does install easier all in one unit if you have head mounting studs....  -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Jeb [ Thu Oct 11, 2012 2:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Best mechanic I ever known told me that a Holley 4bbl was good for standing on to work on a real engine. Stand on that.
What about a Holley 1945 1 barrel under each foot?
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