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| Need a sourse or link for push rod rubber ring https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50146 |
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| Author: | Kidd [ Sun Oct 21, 2012 7:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Need a sourse or link for push rod rubber ring |
I changed the title of this post to try and not clog up the topic with another question.....so here goes. I ordered my aluminum 2 bolt MC, and it will come with a new plastic res, but I fear that it wont have a new rubber retaining ring. Anyonme have a sourse where I can get them? I thought I had gotten a couple extra when I did the drag car, but do you think I can find them now??LOL Andrew/kidd |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | How much donor? |
The only time I've seen the need to swap knuckles side to side is when you are using a pre-1972 suspension with a sway bar and the sway bar will interfere with the calipers if this isn't done. If you are tearing apart the front end anyway, I'd vote to install a 1968-1972 K-member if wanting to keep the sandwich motor mounts, the idler arm is easier to get and a better design (1967 is a 1 year only for that one...). If not wanting originality and lower priced suspension parts just swap it over to the 1973-1976 K-member and go spools...It all bolts right up (did it in my 1967 Signet with a 1976 K-member with 1973 LBP/sway bar set up. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Kidd [ Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Rob, you have a pm......and to anyone else- The front and rear steer is throwing me off! If its as simple as just swaping the spindles side to side, thats fine....but I just meed to know how to keep it rear steer for simplicity sake. |
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| Author: | kesteb [ Sun Oct 21, 2012 10:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Not really understanding what you are talking about, all A-bodies are rear steer. Now if you are talking about where the calipers are located, on the LBP disk brakes they are toward the front. Where the caliber is located can be changed by changing the spindles side-to-side. |
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| Author: | Kidd [ Sun Oct 21, 2012 10:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
unless the front end I got as the doner parts had something else swapped on it, it looks like front steer to me.I will have to try and get pics. Maybe I am imagining things in my tired freak out.LOL |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Mon Oct 22, 2012 5:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
ALL 60s Mopar cars are rear steer with a drag link and steering box. Must be some custom fabbed thing if it is somehow front steer (rack'n'pinion, prolly). Lou |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Mon Oct 22, 2012 5:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Oh yeah, you can just use the spindles (if stock?) and put balljoints on such as to get it to be rear steer. The real choice there is do you want the calipers toward the front or back. You can choose THAT by which side the spindle goes on. Lou |
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| Author: | Kidd [ Mon Oct 22, 2012 7:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Lou, it looks like all stock goodies.Was told it was 71, but it is large bolt pattern, so that would make it earliest as 73.because the disks were still small bolt pattern till then ,right? Anyhow,I will try and get pics, as I can tell what side the drivers side is because there us still some frame attached to the upper control arm.LOL Thanks for the help guys.....I just have never done a disc swap before, and thought all A bodys were rear steer. I by far dont know everything, and will admit when I need help. |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Mon Oct 22, 2012 7:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes, stock discs were SBP 4-piston Kelsey-Hayes up through 72. 73 was first year for the Mopar 10.87" single piston BBP setup. Lou |
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| Author: | Kidd [ Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I changed the topic....back to the top please |
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| Author: | Dart270 [ Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Andrew, Stock A-body 62-76 will work fine (even down to '60??). Or, you can upgrade to the stiffer C-body tie rods/ends by asking for a '75 Chrysler New Yorker or Plymouth Fury ('74-77 is the range, IIRC). This gives you 11/16" diam rods instead of stock 9/16". Not a big difference unless you are doing autox or road racing on sticky tires. The C barge stuff bolts right up with no mods. Lou |
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| Author: | Kidd [ Mon Oct 29, 2012 7:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Lou, you are awesome!!! I am making an order this morning....those and bump stops are all I need!! I found that the bump stops were there, but fell off the mounts when I messed with them.LOL |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | If you are keeping the car... |
If you are going to keep the car for a long while ou can grab a set of Energy suspension bump stops from your local autostore (or Autozone...) Upper Stops are: 9.9103 Lower Stops are: 9.9119 I've got these on both cars, and have lasted longer than the Rubber Norris-McQuay Rubber ones... Vote x2 on the C-body tie rods...(get a new steering box...with all these upgrades they will show you how bad your box is...) -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Kidd [ Mon Oct 29, 2012 7:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
![]() This is my Barracuda......I love this car!! Thanks for the part numbers, I will try and order the parts in the morning.Thanks Rob!! |
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| Author: | Kidd [ Fri Nov 02, 2012 10:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
BTTT with another question!LOL |
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