I made some subframe connectors for my '65 A out or 1.5X3 14G mild steel rectangle tubing. I bought a 10' stick for $39 but them found 2 4' scraps in the bin for .99 a lb so I was in for 20 lbs @.99 so $20 total. I cut them down to 44", used the trimmings to make 2X4 plates for the front ends and welded them on. I cut 8 inches of the "roof" (to make them a U channel) at the rear so they would slip over the rear frame rails, 14G fit nice and snug. After removing the body plug and test fitting them, I drilled 2 1/2 holes in the rear walls so I could increase the weld area and placed them into position, holding them up with a screwjack. Use a hammer and pound the front tabs of the plate flush with the slightly skewed front crossrails. Tack weld and then fit the rears and tack into position. If all looks well, run a full bead around the front plates and rear slip on's and the plug weld holes. Done!

A few notes: final welds should be done with car on 2 pairs of jackstands, front and rear under existing subframes to square up unibody. 1X3 rectangle would fit without needing to remove the 2 body plugs and may fit under the E brake on the driver side, but they were out of stock. 1.5X3: The driver side front plate wants to occupy the same area as the E-brake cable so notch the inside of the plate and connector with an appropriate V cut right in the middle, not precision-EZ. The passenger side has an E-brake bracket at the rear so you need to drill 2 1/2 inch holes on the slip fit end. Its easier to eyeball them than measure but they are about :40.25 long and .75 from the outboard edge, and 40.75 long and 2.0 inches from the outboard edge. You can theoretically bolt the rear in with these 2 bolts but welding after you get these holes drilled will be much better structurally. Great place to mount a driveshaft loop if you need one.
Subframe connectors can reduce body sag, reduce brake wander, reduce chassis flex and reduce body noise. Wonder why they didnt do it from the factory? Great weekend project, with materials and a chop-saw you can do this in about 2-3 hours.

pictures or it never happened lol


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Ill post some tomorrow. I posted on FABO too so you can find them there also.

instead of taking pics under my car and showing my crappy welds, Ill just link to this guys install, its IDENTICAL to mine except he used taller tubes (his mistake, not mine) mine dont come into the floorboard, but everything else is spot on: chop at 44", weld butt plate,,fillet the rear at 36" and slide 'r on. weld and paint. Done.....
http://www.angelfire.com/mo2/radrodder/ ... ctors.html