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| 1st time SL6 builder/enthusiast needs advice & tutoring! https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50215 |
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| Author: | mopardude76 [ Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 1st time SL6 builder/enthusiast needs advice & tutoring! |
Hey all: I've been lurking on here for quite some time and taking everything in that I can but I am totally lost right now. I'm building a '76 Dart with factory sun roof and rear window defroster for my wife to match my '76 Duster with the same options except it has a 360 in it. The Dart has a slant 6 and I want to build it as a street sleeper that will run on pump ag fuel, (in our region we can get a higher octane ag/atv fuel that has no mtbe's or whatever added). I have read sooooo many different build recommendations and with this being my first sl6 I know very little about it. I have a spare '68 that I want to build and swap it out this winter IF the '68 is a better foundation to start with than the '76. First thing is boring it. I see guys going over from .020" to .060" or more. At what point will I have problems with overheating if we decide to do cruise nights, parades or just puttin around town? Secondly, milling the block and head. Once again I've seen all kinds of numbers and I have yet to tear the one down that I'm going to use so what is the total I can have taken off assuming the head is close to true and may only need .010", i.e. .010" off head and .020" off the block? I see a lot of the guys are aiming for a CR of 9.0-9.5:1. Do I want to lean on one more than the other and what gasket is the best to use? (part # please) I see a lot of guys are going with larger valves and triple ground. What are the part #'s for intake and exhuast or what engine are they from and what is the part # for bronze guides. I also see that they are going with 340 springs, any particular year or part #'s for these? And what about push rods, if I take a total of say .040" off the head and block do I still use stock push rods or do I have to get shorter ones? Part #? Next, pistons and rods. Should I just stay with stock lenth rods and stock pistons with oversize rings to match the boring or to change the top of the pistons to flat or domed or notch them? Not knowing the history of the engine I'm going to use can I use the rods I have or do I need to just get new ones? When I weigh them, if they need weight taken off where is the best location to remove it from? Camshaft, WOW!?!? What can I say about what I've read? Is there ANYWHERE that a guy can order one that can be trusted? Can I have the stock one reground and if so what lift & duration numbers are the best if I want to use the Offy 4bbl. intake with say a 550 cfm carb and am looking for more horsepower rather than torque? Crankshaft? Is the '68 crank any differant from the '76 and which is better? If it looks good and checks out can I just have it polished or should I have it ground and go with oversize bearings? Recommended supplier and part # for say .010" over? Oil pump? Any recommended supplier and part #? Timing set? Supplier and part #? Converter? Is there a stall that is preferred or stock? Head bolt set? Is there an ARP set available? Part #? On the forum is there a torque sequence and ftlb for the head available and other critical component chart? If not, is there another online source or preferred book with the numbers? Is there a decent looking aluminum valve cover out there that is readily available? I may even consider a chrome one if that's the only thing available. Part # and supplier? How about a 6-2 header? Is there one out there or does a guy have to have one made? Part# and supplier? I see there are some who are using a high torque mini starter. Part # and supplier? I know I've asked for a boat load of information here and you may think I'm lazy but the truth is I know so very little about this engine, other than it is a legendary, stump pulling, dependable and just plain awesome piece of engineering, and I need every bit of help I can get to do it right and make sure I don't let the loyal followers down. A friend had one built for him and has it in a 'Cuda with dog dish caps but he has had a lot of problems with the internals. I don't know if it is an issue with the builder or the parts but I know it has been a major headache for my friend and I really don't want, nor can I afford to have issues like he has had . I just want to say in advance THANK YOU!!! to anyone who decides to bravely take an ignorant rookie such as myself under their wing and share their knowledge and dedication to the SL6 with me. You have no idea how appreciative I really am. I live in Jasper, MN which is in the SW corner near Sioux Fall, SD so if anyone is close PM me and I'll give you my number or get yours and give you a call. Duane |
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| Author: | Aggressive Ted [ Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Did you read the "engine builds" under Engine FAQ section? |
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| Author: | Mike_64_Valiant [ Tue Oct 30, 2012 12:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Wow that's a lot of questions. You need to know a more clear end goal for the car. What kind of horse power and torque numbers are you shooting for. How much of a budget to work with? There is more than one way to skin a cat and no one right way to really tell you that perfect recipe for you car. There is a ton of excellent info on building. Hot little slant six's on here. You need to read the archives section it tells you answers to all most all of your questions and even has part numbers and suppliers for a bunch of goodies. You can bore as little or as much as you need. There is new forged pistons availible now from .080 to .100 over for bigger engine build. Can even get new rods with them depending on what you want for your stroke. Mill as little to true things up or a whole bunch for upping the compression. I have .040 off my block and .080 off my head still use stock lenght push rods and running 10.3to1 static comp. ratio. There is a lot of room to work with. You need to play the engine numbers mathmatics game. You say you can run high octane av gas so why so low of compression of 9.5 go big, really up that compression. There is a great set of oversized vavles out there from a guy engine bulder. But there is a bunch of options when it comes to chosing which valves to use. I have seen ford, chevy and even harley davidson valves used. There is a bunch of options for camshafts, new and reground when you know the numbers your shooting for then start asking about what cam to go with I understand that part can be tricky. I asked my self and got good info from a couple people and ended up with a custom ground erson cam. If you get a cam from erson may as well also use there lifters and springs matched for that cam, problem solved on what springs to use. The torque converters can be made but once again we need numbers based off your cam and compression and use of the car, also helps to know what rear gears and tire size you plan to run. As far as the block, crank, bolts, oil pump info that stuff should all be in the archives, as far as the torque seq. Numbers I am sure Dan will chine in and tell you what books you should pick up. Also use the search function its your friend when it comes to most all your questions. Just type min starter and you can read all the info about it. Same as exhaust and header options. Once you have a better idea every one will be ready to help right away. Welcome to the forum and I hope you get all the help and info you need. |
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