I called around and a couple of local shops want $12 each to remove and install new guides including reaming to final size. That seems crazy to me - $144 plus parts for an hour or two of work?

The way I see it I can buy an install tool for $18, reamer for $45 and I'm ahead by $80 or so, plus I can do more heads in the future. I know how to run a reamer, and I have mics and small bore gauges...

I could spend another $80 and get the tools to cut the top of the guide for positive stem seals too.


I've had so many bad experiences with machine shops over the years that I am tempted to give it a shot myself just for peace of mind.

I've done chevy heads before, even knurrled some stuff before, not much to it at all, go for it

Cylinder Head Supply has all the tools needed for less than $130 - facing/OD cutting tool, driving tool and .378 reamer for a finished stem-to-guide clearance of .002.

how about repairing one that is out of shape?

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

WHat do you mean? Like with a bronze sleeve? I think the tooling is a bit more than a DIYer like me would invest in.

Where can you buy valve guide tools for those prices. The last time I looked the "Good" tools were several thousand dollars. That $144 dollars you mention is not just the labor, it is "return on investment" on the equipment.

I do my own Bronze guides, using the "old" Winona, Helicoil style bronze liners. But I have a machine shop true the guides the first time, before I install the bronze walls. Then if a guide needs replacing in the future, I just pull out the old bronzewall "thread" and install a new one.

http://www.goodson.com/Bronze-Wall-Standard-Bushings/

http://www.goodson.com/technical_suppor ... zewall.pdf

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I'm talking about bronze replacements for the factory iron guides, not liners. The tooling for liners, as you surmised, is expensive.

Unless I'm mistaken about the slant having replaceable valve guides, in which case I wouldn't want to do it without a mill and some centering fixtures. Or at the very least an accurate drill press and centering fixtures.

Ok I just went out and looked at the head and I understand what the problem is. I haven't worked on a slant in years and was thinking they are like motorcycle/modern car heads. Maybe I can have them do the initial machining and I'll do the final install and ream to size....