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Questions from a Slant Noob that gets ahead (an intake too)
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Author:  Sprag [ Tue Nov 20, 2012 7:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Questions from a Slant Noob that gets ahead (an intake too)

Today I scored a used assembled head and (welded) intake manifold that were pulled from a stock appearing 1983 S6 powered pickup and have a few questions, but first the plan:

My plan is to retrofit this newer head and intake along with a regular production, but crack-free (that sounds weird) exhaust manifold on my '66 Coronet. Ultimately this car will be my better half's "fun car" and her idea of fun is driving like a Grandma, so no zoomey-go-fast stuff here. I plan to retain the heat riser and choke functions with hopes to keep it efficient and reliable above all. That said, I'm still pondering the idea of taking a whack off the head to bump the compression, but first things first:

1) Can I use the existing mechanical rockers/shaft assy from my '66 on this hyd style head without making any mods? I read the Engine FAQ mech/hyd differences topic and this seem OK, so if I got it wrong please tell me what I missed there.

2) Is the single barrel welded style alloy intake worth a snot and will it work with the old style exhaust manifold and carb? Should I worry about the porosity?/bubbles in the weld seams on the intake runners or is that a common sight on these things? The bubbly welds really look like crapola and I'd like to smooth them a bit but I already hear Murphy chanting so perhaps it's best left alone?

3) Would it be a good idea to have this head cut to improve the compression a bit or is this whole swap a good idea to begin with for a basic put-put "Sunday driver"? If so (and so), is there a general consensus on what to cut from the head for fitment on my stock '66 shortblock and using nothing better than, ahem, 'premium' pump gas?

Thanks in advance!

Author:  Charrlie_S [ Wed Nov 21, 2012 2:18 am ]
Post subject: 

As far as I know the valve train should swap over from one head to the other. The only thing I am aware of is a possibility of the rear rocker shaft bolt/hole needing to be modified. Someone (not I) that has done this swap should chime in here. You will need the newer valve cover.

I do highly recommend milling the head while it is off, and maybe freshen up the valve job. Take some measurements, and mill the head for about 8.5 to 8.75 to 1 actual compression. If you are willing to do some advanced tuning (distributor recurve and carb jetting, maybe using mid grade fuel) go for 9.00 to 1.

Author:  Sprag [ Wed Nov 21, 2012 5:24 am ]
Post subject:  Thank You

I got a real nice old-style valve cover along with this stuff rather than the new style but I think I can go back for that.

For reference sake, the head # is 4095778 and here's a shot of the intake # 4105302 showing the weld bubbles that I'd like to sand off:

INTAKE PHOTO

(I can't figure out how to get the image to show in here, I used the usual [img]blah%20blah[/img] format without the spaces so I suppose I'm overlooking something)

Author:  DadTruck [ Wed Nov 21, 2012 5:59 am ]
Post subject: 

if you don't like the look of the weld porosity, use filler material to smooth it, if you grind, you may open up more porosity or the original leak path.

Author:  Pierre [ Wed Nov 21, 2012 8:33 am ]
Post subject: 

Powdercoat it to fill the pores. Can get it in clear to still keep the "charm" of a welded intake.

Author:  Sprag [ Thu Nov 22, 2012 4:42 am ]
Post subject:  Thank You

Thanks for the info and advice. :D

I got the correct valve cover yesterday, it was a freebie and shortly thereafter, discovered two bent pushrods in my engine :(
I guess getting this head was good timing or maybe a curse, I dunno, but onward we go. The engine is packed with sludge, probably the worst I've ever seen and the last fuel that went through it was like a mix of varnish and gum but I'm lucky there also, a new tank, sender, pump and carb kit are already on the shelf. I guess thinking ahead is working for me this time :)

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