So I'm hoping to have about 2k to spend on my 225 slant six after taxes, all suggestions welcome,

4 bbl carb, what to get.

headers

electronic ignition, already found good info here for that

performance shocks

new brakes

gear drive timing

poly urathane bushing kit and sway bar

so let me here what you all think, especially the carberation. I would like a 4 bbl but nothing to big I would just like to have that punch on demand but not for flat out drag racing. And isnt it true that a 4bbl does better on gas than a 2 bbl when you dont have your foot in it?

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1970 dart swinger \six

On a stock 1970 motor, you should get a two barrel carb.
Dutra Duals are more available, often cheaper, and a better product than headers.
HEI is my favorite.
No comment on this one. I know nothing about this.
I hope this means you want to upgrade to disc brakes if you are planning on hopping up the motor. In my opinion it is more important to improve safety items like the braking, suspension, and steering systems and getting good tires before spending the money and effort on building up a performance motor.
Not aware that gear drive timing sets were ever made for the slant six. Why not get a double roller timing chain set and be happy?
Poly is OK on a sway bar, but on a street driven car poly bushings are noisy and harsh. I think you will regret using poly if this car is going to be anything but a dedicated race car.
Four barrel carbs are too big for a stock slant six. Racers and people who build modified motors use four barrel carbs because their engines turn the required RPMs and have been modified to actually use the extra air flow. I stick with my recommendation that you stay with a two barrel carb.

If you simply MUST have a four barrel carb, I would recommend a Holley 4360 (450 CFM), a small thermoquad or quadrajet, or an Edelbrock 500 CFM carb, or a Holley 390 CFM carb. The Holley 390 CFM carb is probably the most popular four barrel carb for the slant six because it is very tune-able and more available. The edelbrock will be the easiest to tune. The Holley 4360 is a slightly larger carb but it has very small primaries. It is an economy carburetor and is not very modifiable. The thermoquads and quadrajets are somewhat complex but are spread bore carbs with small primaries. They can also be tuned to allow only as much air as the engine will actually need. The small primaries offer the potential for improved fuel economy, but you have to spend the time tuning the carbs and then drive properly to achieve the better economy.

I think you need to slow down a bit and make a realistic plan of how you car will be driven. Will it be a daily driver? Will it be street driven? What RPM range will it operate at most often? What is the maximum RPM the motor will turn? It is very important to be honest about how the car will be used to select the parts that will give you the best performance for the intended use. Once you have some idea of the RPM range of the motor, use an online CFM calculator to see what size carb you really need on the engine. Only the most seriously built slant sixes ever need a carb that flows more than 300 CFM.

You're going about this backwards. Making a list of parts to buy is not the first step, it's the second-to-last step, just before installing and adjusting the parts. If you do it backwards like this, the odds are you will wind up with an expensive, unsatisfactory result.

The (real) first step is to figure out and write down, in detail, exactly what you want the car to do differently than it does now. "Go faster" is not specific enough. Exactly what do you want the car to do in terms of 0-60 time, quarter-mile time, miles per gallon? How much time, energy, and patience do you have to be constantly fiddling with the car and tweaking it to keep it running acceptably? Are you driving around town, on highways, about half and half of each? Doing any racing? What kind of weather conditions do you drive the car in? What year and model is it? After this initial $2K, how much more money do you figure you'll have to spend on it, and how soon? How much time do you have to do the mods you have in mind? How much experience do you have working on cars? Those are the kinds of questions to answer in (close) detail as a first step.

As far as your list:
Why?
Why?
Why? What kind of condition is the rest of the undercar in? See this thread.
What kind of brakes does the car have now? 9" drums, 10" drums, discs? Are you thinking to upgrade, or just to renew/refurbish? See here.
Why? You can, butt it's utterly pointless unless you just want to make noise. Expensive way to make noise.
Why? You like constant squeaks and creaks...?

It is definitely not true that dropping a 4bbl on an otherwise stock (or near stock) engine will give you "that punch on demand".
No.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The first "improvement" I tend to do on any daily driver SL6 vehicle is a valve adjustment and complete tune-up. Tha t usually involves some distributor recurving work.

Next thing... anti-sway bars, good shocks and possibly tires / wheels.
Brakes are a "tie" with the above items but if there are current issue(s) or problems with the braking systems, resolving those comes first.

The "to-do" list becomes more subjective after that...
I tend look at doing exhaust system up-grades before doing intake side improvements.
DD

I ran Edlebrock shocks on all four corners with new (360 V8 ) .893 torsion bars and new 5 leaf heavy duty rear springs with 1 1/8" front sway bar. It was a little rough for my wife with 60 series BFG T/A radials. I switched to KYB shocks on the rear which took the pressure off the front and it settled right down. The Edlebrocks are fine on the front and tire wear is perfect. In fact the car has great balance. My 74 Dart Swinger (3600 pounds with me and full tank) is a heavy car. Other chassis upgrades also include a 8 3/4 Sure-grip and 10" brakes on all four corners and 14 x 7" wheels.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks for the feedback guys here are some answers and ideas.

Headers: cause I would like to eventually like to have side pipes like the older corvette style under the doors with the bad boy grills over em and I like the sound.

Gear drive timing: I found affordable sets applied with no modding needed and it would be unique and reliable and again I like the sound.

Sticking with 1bbl for now, it looks like aggressiveTed has no issue with making power with his 1920, thanks Ted for the inspiration

Bushings: I had no idea that the poly was noisy, dont like the sound of that, maybe just go with OEM's

HEI: deffinatly going that rout, getting a new coil and maybe a good new distributer and over all tune up.

Brakes: for now I just want to rebuild the guts on my 9" drums new cylinders springs soft lines ect. the drums are in good shape.

Realy over all I'm not looking to fry the tires but would like to get some more pep out of it and sound good, and maybe give some imports a run for their money when they pull up at the light especialy the new Dart and have good passing power on the highway, this is my driver and will be run alot in all conditions as I am on the Oregon coast.

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1970 dart swinger \six

OK, so you want to turn the car into an unreliable, noisy toy that'll gas you with exhaust if you roll down the windows. You're (extremely) mistaken about there being a gear-drive timing system that is both affordable and reliable, it's odd that you should care about poly bushing noise which you won't hear over the racket your engine will make if and when it's running, and given your not very thoughtful intent to keep the 9" brakes it's fortunate for all of us that your ideas won't work out about making the car go faster by hanging a bunch of random parts on it.

It's a good thing it's your car, because if it were mine and I drew up this kind of a plan to ruin it, I'd have to call myself a thoughtless nincompoop.

Have fun with your car!

:shrug:

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

and keep you're single pot master cylinder!

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1964 Dart GT

So you are going to spend lots of money and effort to achieve a certain sound while neglecting to make basic safety improvements? Not a wise decision in my opinion.

I used to own a van that I installed some 70s style side pipes on. It was fun for about 30 seconds. The more I drove the van the more I hated how loud and annoying the mufflers were.

If you intend to use this car as a daily driver you should adjust your priorities to making it safe for you to drive before you spend money on appearance and sound modifications.

…and I'm sure he'll make all kinds of good friends with every neighbor who has to hear the unnecessary noise he makes.

Every cop, too!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Jeez fuddy duddies nobody said it's unsafe to drive I drive it everyday and it's safe and brakes work fine I am just going to spruce em up and was planning on upgrading the master cyl, if drums werent safe they would have taken em off the market 40 years ago. I guess I'll stick with the hot rod guys I know who do these sort of things localy and get real help not just old fart criticism, it will be done well, I am kind of a perfectionist so be scepitical if you like I am not rushing a thing, I have already talked to shops and old rodders about balancing and blue printing and doing rebuild work who are stoked on the car. I guess it's easy to assume I'm rushing and planning on just bolt on's since I havent wrote a book on my plans but I have a binder full of research and it's goin to be purty and run good,You all would hate my bike too its fast loud and annoying as well, have fun driving miss daisy

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1970 dart swinger \six

Yep, I'll have fun as I keep on driving after you have crashed your go-fast Dart into a tree or ditch because your 9 inch brakes that were barely adequate when your car was new weren't powerful enough to stop your hopped up motor.

Good luck and be safe.

Fuddy Duddy and proud of it!

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1964 Dart GT

My underhood Wishlist, that I am working on:

-Dual Master Cylinder (running Front Disc conversion & 10" rear drums)
-HEI Conversion w/Magnecor 8mm plug wires
-Super Six w/Two-Barrel (not sure which carb?)
-Dutra Exhaust manifold on front 3, modified stock on back 3.
-Righthand Drive(Australian) Oil Pump w/ remote oil filter
-Better Lighting
-Louder Horn
-Aussie Speed Valve Cover('cause I like the way they look!)

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1964 Dart GT

Well they pretty much did on the front axle of US passenger cars by the mid-seventies. Drum brakes suck, they are unpredictable when applied hard in an emergency (pick a card pick a card which wheel will lock up first & which lane will this thing head for with which end leading?), and they take 20 to 40% longer to stop these old heaps than a modern car traveling at the same speed on the first stop… any additional stops are a crap shoot as fade takes over until the damn things cool off
Whatever…

Your opening salvo: So it looks like the Welcome sign ain’t lit any longer.

You asked us, not the other way around. Hopefully your GM/Ford roder buds will spend your dough wisely.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC