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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:22 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 2:50 pm
Posts: 36
Location: Oregon
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I have a quick question for those of you who have swapped to a T-5. Sorry, I have read a bunch on T-5 swaps and have not run accross this issue.

The input shaft has a tube or sleeve around it for much of the length of the shaft. When positioning the transmission in preparation to take measurements for an spacer / adpater plate, how close should the end of the tube be in relation to the spline hub on the clutch disc? I assume it should be as close as possible without making contact with the hub.

Thanks much,

- EM


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 6:30 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
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Input bearing retainer.

I made the one from my Ford trans match the length and diameter of the original 3 speed retainer so I could use the stock bell and throwout bearing.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:02 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 2:50 pm
Posts: 36
Location: Oregon
Car Model:
Quote:
Input bearing retainer.

I made the one from my Ford trans match the length and diameter of the original 3 speed retainer so I could use the stock bell and throwout bearing.
Sandy: Understood but I don't have an issue with the bearing retainer. What my question pertains to is the transmission "depth" into the bell housing and how that relates to the input shaft tube and clutch hub gap.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:20 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2011 4:12 pm
Posts: 456
Location: Amarillo, Tx USA
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Quote:
Quote:
Input bearing retainer.

I made the one from my Ford trans match the length and diameter of the original 3 speed retainer so I could use the stock bell and throwout bearing.
Sandy: Understood but I don't have an issue with the bearing retainer. What my question pertains to is the transmission "depth" into the bell housing and how that relates to the input shaft tube and clutch hub gap.
That is the bearing retainer. As long as the clutch disk doesnt hit it the length doesnt matter. It all is about bellhousing depth as sandy alluded to.

And if it does hit due to the bell being to shallow, it can be cut down.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:26 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Sep 02, 2012 2:50 pm
Posts: 36
Location: Oregon
Car Model:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Input bearing retainer.

I made the one from my Ford trans match the length and diameter of the original 3 speed retainer so I could use the stock bell and throwout bearing.
Sandy: Understood but I don't have an issue with the bearing retainer. What my question pertains to is the transmission "depth" into the bell housing and how that relates to the input shaft tube and clutch hub gap.
That is the bearing retainer. As long as the clutch disk doesnt hit it the length doesnt matter. It all is about bellhousing depth as sandy alluded to.

I guess this is a matter of semantics. I view the bearing retainer as the round flange that bolts to the front of the transmission and actually retains the input shaft bearing. I see the tube as not being related other than being attached to the bearing retainer. Now that I understand how you guys view this, your comments are clearer and are in-line with my assumption.

Thanks, EM


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2012 12:15 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
So long as the throwout bearing doesn't fall off the end of the tube when the clutch is released and the clutch disc doesn't hit the tube you'll be fine. Matching the new tube depth into the bell with the old tube as Sandy described is great so long as the original style clutch cover and release bearing are used. If you use a diaphragm clutch cover those are generally shorter so you might need a longer tube to support the release bearing.

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