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| Rough expectable power figure/suitability to low numeric r/e https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50576 |
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| Author: | SlanI.P.ac [ Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Rough expectable power figure/suitability to low numeric r/e |
Good morning. My name is glen and i'm piecing together the mechanicals for my hardtop project. The bodywork hasn't been started yet, a common flaw with my projects, but i'd like to get it if not driveable then at least have all the mechanicals sorted to bolt straight in when the time is nigh. I'm in queensland australia so where model designations make no sense i'll attempt to clarify with appropriate us equivalents. Currently i'm in diff mode and the choices are 3.23 (standard to this vehicle, though not with this engine, and standard to the engine though not with this car) and 2.92:1 (what i'm leaning towards based on lower highway rpm's and that i have an undisturbed crownwheel-pinion-LSD set i can slip in) to go in a chrysler centura [ 5 on 4.5" pcd borg warner 78 series. Slightly narrower track.] housing. The motor and trans are AP6 [1964 225 plymouth] valiant with a VE/VF 2BBL inlet manifold, what i suspect are standard internals, an R2050a 2300 series holley [about 350 cfm. List number identifies it as a 1960-62 ford fe 332 passenger vehicle carb.] that may make way for a tin top solid fuel BBD carter, it has extractors though currently no exhaust so diameter is up for discussion with likely a twin two inch or single 2 1/4" system. Box is a cable shift dual pump slant torqueflite i'll be hooking a pushbutton setup to from our local AP5 [1963 plymouth] valiant. As these are going into a longer wheelbase VG valiant Pacer hardtop [111", as per the dodge dart 2 doors] i'm leaning toward a shortened oz chrysler AP1-2-3 royal [flange-cross and roller uni-female and male slip spline-universal joint] tailshaft. As this is my first slant, will the 225 live comfortably in the dart body with a 2.92 third member? Have had 2.92's in our local late A bodies on the same wheelbase with more weight but behind 245 and 265 hemi's in auto and fourspeeds, and 318's, and a centura at 105" and 2750 Lb's with a 245 but would like some input on how the slant will fare. Am looking to use the car once finished mainly for cruising and a few highway runs, our legal maximum being 66 mph. No intention of dragging and generally I drive like a granny. Also, has anyone dyno'd an early slant with comparable exhaust and carburetion to as described please? AP6 was rated at 145 hp, the later two barrel models with cast iron exhaust manifolding and slightly larger cam as 160 hp, though i'd like to imagine the holley and headers and not so peashooterish pipes will help it somewhat. Thankyou kindly for your time, Glen. |
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| Author: | walpolla [ Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Aussie site |
Hello, If you have'nt found it yet, check out Mopar Market in Australia. Some very knowledgeable members there who can help you locally with your modifications. Is your car a VF or VG? I can't tell from the picture. CLICK HERE There is a specific section for Slants, and also for each model. Ask in the Slant page and go from there. You will most likely find another Mopar enthusiast near you to get advice/help from. regards,Rod 
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| Author: | SlanI.P.ac [ Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
hello Rod. thankyou for the reply. the pictured car was my uncles VF with VIP nose and Fireball. i'm replicating the front in an RF X2 S23 but painting it white and dropping the slant in as i'm in love with a base model VF hardy in bendigo. had asked the diff question here as i can't recall the VF 2 door being available with a slant and 2.92 in oz. and generally people seem to go the other way to 3.5's and lower in search of acceleration which i have bikes for. have previously used MM and frequented H6P but generally leave them alone for tech info as filtering through all the posts from allknowing 100 year old teenagers got tiring. cheers, glen. |
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| Author: | Doc [ Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Here in the States, we have the Chrysler 8 3/4 rear and that has a "drop-out" center gear carrier, making for fast gear swaps. Because of that, I tend to swap "to & from"... between the 2.94 and the 3.23 ratios, on street driven vehicles, that have a 1 to 1 final drive transmission. Based on your "want highway driving" I would suggest using the 2.92 you have. DD |
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| Author: | SlanI.P.ac [ Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:33 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thankyou doc. As you mentioned, being a spicer type once it's in there, shimmed and the tooth pattern set she'll not be getting disturbed again for a long while so it's good to know the high gears will carry it along fine. The strength of an 8.75 is a bit unwarranted in my application but from a motorcycle background anything that allows speedy ratio swaps when you have varying applications is a godsend. |
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| Author: | Doc [ Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:35 am ] |
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Quote: ...but from a motorcycle background anything that allows speedy ratio swaps when you have varying applications is a godsend.
Yes, we are a bit "spoiled" by having the "drop-out" in most of our vehicles and lots of different gear ratio sets in the garage.Fact is, I recently built a new 4.10 posi 8 3/4 "chuck" for my race car and wanted to "run it in"... so I installed the 'pumpkin" into my street car.  Needless to say, my short "across-town" commute is a bit more "sporty" these days!   As soon as I have to take a road trip... those gears will come-out. DD |
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