Hey guys,

I've got an alternator I plan to swap in for my original. This one is rated at 120A over the 35 stock. I plan to run the 2 10 gauge charging wires with 50 amp fusible links on each end of both wires from the output to the battery. Just got some quick questions:
1. This unit does not have an internal regulator. Is that an issue?
2. I keep the exact same wiring and just add the two additional charging wires?
3. The grooves on the new pulley seem too thin. How difficult is it to switch the pulleys? It looks like its really easy, take off one nut, switch the wheels and put the nut back on.

Also, can someone help identify the ignition wire as opposed to the ground for this unit? Everywhere I look online says it will be marked but this unit is not. It's a cheap chinese unit, didn't know until it was bought. Can't return it for "suspicions that it will be a PoS due to country of origin".


Any guesses? Or will this be a trial and error thing? I'm thinking it won't start if the ignition wire is on the ground.

Thanks for all the help,
Aspen76

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76 Dodge Aspen
225 Super Six w/ Dutra True Dual Exhaust

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... AG0095.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/user/BZuko1?feature=guide

No Yes. Unknown, shaft may or may not be the same diameter. I doubt the grooves are too thin, unless the alt, has a serpentine/multi groove pulley. Need pic. Just connect the two regulator wires to the two small terminals on the upper left in your picture. Polarity is not an issue.
PS: neither one of the wires is ground. One wire is 12v from ignition terminal at the regulator, and the other is the control wire from the regulator. This is the wire the regulator switches between open and ground to control the alt output.
Do not connect any of those wires to ground, or you will release much magic smoke. You can connect a ground wire from the alt case to the engine/body/regulator case, if you wish.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks for all the clarification. I was going to wait until mid January to come up and see you Charrlie but it looks like I'm all clear until the 26th. 1 day break the whole thing and 4 days to put all the pieces back together

The pulley is the two V grooves. I was judging the groove size by feel. When I stick my finger in the grooves on the alt it feels tighter than the original pulley. I'd really prefer not to need to change the pulley of course but having the belt pop out down the road isn't good either.


Definitely don't want to do that. Lets leaving the magic smoke in Colorado and Washington state.

Great information, really helps a lot! I greatly appreciate it,
Aspen76

_________________
76 Dodge Aspen
225 Super Six w/ Dutra True Dual Exhaust

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... AG0095.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/user/BZuko1?feature=guide

All finished with the swap. Everything went great. The wiring isn't pretty but I can cover that up a little later.



I had to modify the top bracket a little but I needed an excuse to buy a drill anyway



Thanks for all the help!
Aspen76

_________________
76 Dodge Aspen
225 Super Six w/ Dutra True Dual Exhaust

http://i1245.photobucket.com/albums/gg5 ... AG0095.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/user/BZuko1?feature=guide

In my Not So Humble Opinion, one never needs an excuse to buy a new tool

Looking at your last picture, it seems like the hose on that temperature operated vacuum switch needs some attention. One side is kinked, and the other looks like it's on its last suck.
I've learned a lot from folks who looked at my posted pics and pointed out something I hadn't even noticed. Something about not seeing the forest for the trees...

ATB and Happy Boxing Day

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!