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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2003 12:33 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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So yesterday I got the timing set at 5BTDC (w/ no vacuum advance) and cleaned out a good amount of the carbon built up in the engine. That got rid of the detonation, and adjusting the valves (did it with the engine running, which I HATE to do cause I can never seem to get it right) helped reduce the noise a little bit more. I also decided against flushing the engine, since the valve assembly was still good and wet with oil. So it's running 10W-30 full synthetic with a K&N filter now. I still plan on dropping the pan ASAP and cleaning out the pickup screen, along with rebuilding the oil pump.

Now for the problems that're still there, the grinding noise that I originally heard is still there. It happens at any normal road/highway speed when I'm letting up off the gas pedal, and only when it's almost all the way out. I can feel it in the pedal and it feels like the linkage is being struck by gear teeth (to best describe the feel/sound). It's kind of a growling/grinding sort of noise. I think I may have traced it to the tranny, but I can't be totally sure. Also, when I rev the engine with the gas pedal while parked, it still grinds, BUT when I rev it at the carb, there's no grinding. Any thoughts?

Also, I rebuilt the starter without finding any problems with it, but it still gets eaten alive when the engine starts. I'm figuring it's still running after the engine starts, which is keeping the clutch activated against the flywheel. I checked the relay and it's still good, but I'm wondering if the solenoid in the starter might be going out? I would've thought that a bad solenoid simply wouldn't pump out any juice.

Yeah I know it's lengthy but the more I do on it, it seems the better it's getting, bit by bit. So I'm starting to get excited about it again.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2003 2:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 2:37 pm
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Location: Fairbanks, AK
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Now for the problems that're still there, the grinding noise that I originally heard is still there. It happens at any normal road/highway speed when I'm letting up off the gas pedal, and only when it's almost all the way out. I can feel it in the pedal and it feels like the linkage is being struck by gear teeth (to best describe the feel/sound). It's kind of a growling/grinding sort of noise. I think I may have traced it to the tranny, but I can't be totally sure. Also, when I rev the engine with the gas pedal while parked, it still grinds, BUT when I rev it at the carb, there's no grinding. Any thoughts?
If it doesnt do it when you rev at the carb, id say your throttle cable is worn out or needs grease. The "feels like being struck by gear teeth" feeling could be the cable unwinding/frayed inside the protective cover. However, i would think if this were the case your accel pedal would at least stick if not bind up....

As for the starter, sounds like the solnoid is sticking. Since you already cleaned things up when you rebuilt it, id get a new solnoid.

My .02

-Aaron

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2003 2:57 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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I'll pop a new solenoid into that starter and give it a shot. Cross yer fingers :P

Any thoughts on where I could possibly get a new (or NOS) replacement cable?

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2003 3:08 pm 
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Location: Fairbanks, AK
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I forgot what year/make car/truck this is for, but if your local autoparts store doesnt have/cant order one, possibly the boneyard or just measure up how long yours in and go to the store and tell 'em how long of a cable you want to get.

Before you replace the cable, disconnect it from the carb (or better, pull it out completely) and see if you can work some grease into it by smearing a little on the cable itself, then working the cable in and out of its cover. (does it stick/bind at all now?) You will be able to notice if the grease is getting worked in and lubing things up--the cable will operate much more smoothly.

One last thought on the cable--make sure it is not making any sharp turns anywhere. I know its practically impossible to have it be straight, but you want it as straight as possible, making all turns as large a radius as you can. I had my stock cable go bad (started binding) on my truck after i swapped to a BBD (throttle linkage was turned 90*) because i had to make a fairly sharp turn for it to hook up. My cure was simple..made a new braket to hold the cable at the proper angle.

-Aa

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2003 3:14 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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I forgot what year/make car/truck this is for
Oh yeah, forgot to put that in :P '70 Dart Swinger 225, cable linkage and a Holley 1920

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject: wait a minute
PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2003 5:19 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Seattle, WA
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I suggest grabbing the frt damper(engine stopped!) and pushing/pulling frtwards and backwards to make sure you don't have too much crank end play.
Another possibility is the timing chain may be stretched and allowing too much end play of the cam and the chain is grinding on the timing cover.

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'66 Cuda 225/4spd
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 Post subject: Re: wait a minute
PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2003 7:58 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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I suggest grabbing the frt damper(engine stopped!) and pushing/pulling frtwards and backwards to make sure you don't have too much crank end play.
Another possibility is the timing chain may be stretched and allowing too much end play of the cam and the chain is grinding on the timing cover.
Was it 340 gears that are supposed to work on a 225? I seem to remember a gear kit (ie: no chain) that could be bolted to a 225...

I'll take a look at both (and I know the timing chain is stretched anyway, so it couldn't hurt to just go ahead and change it out), but I would think that if it were either of those, it would grind/growl when I rev it at the carb, too. I only hear any noise when I use the pedal.

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2003 10:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 10, 2002 11:25 pm
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Jopapa - one other thing i would check is the location/condition of the hangers on the exhaust. I have heard all sorts of strange noises created by harmonic frequencies which only setup at certain rpms.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2003 2:03 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Jopapa - one other thing i would check is the location/condition of the hangers on the exhaust. I have heard all sorts of strange noises created by harmonic frequencies which only setup at certain rpms.
Ooooohhhh, good idea. I didn't even think to look at any of that :oops:

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 21, 2003 11:05 pm 
Uhh, have you looked at your motor and trans mounts? If they are deteriorated/broken/whatever, your powertrain can move around under load and start hitting stuff. Just a thought...


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2003 3:27 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:50 pm
Posts: 1742
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
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Uhh, have you looked at your motor and trans mounts? If they are deteriorated/broken/whatever, your powertrain can move around under load and start hitting stuff. Just a thought...
Actually yes, they're completely FUBAR. I'm trying to source some poly engine mounts. Got a guy on here who's got a poly tranny mount that if he still has when I've got a few extra bucks I'll buy off him.
I'd love to put sold engine mounts in there instead, but I've been told that the rattle and vibration is horrific if it's a daily driver.

_________________
'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me


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