I am not sure if im using the correct name for this part but i think its called the ignition contact point in the distributor, well the little boot melted and the wire from it to the + post on the ignition coil burnt up and the casing melted which seems like it caused the post to blow out of the top of the coil.

I am wondering if that wire needs to be some kind of special wire, and what would cause something like this to happen?

thank you

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66 Plymouth Valiant 2door. Slant 6 225, 3speed

It's not a special type of wire, although to replace it (along with the boot that feeds it through the side of the distributor) you may have to find another distributor. I'm sorry I don't have a parts distributor on hand right now.

That wire should connect to the ground (-) terminal on the coil. The power is fed to the coil on the positive terminal. The points in the distributor ground the coil, then "release" the ground, as they make and break contact.

As for why it failed, you may have had the points stick together, or the condenser may be shorted. Change your points and condenser when you replace the wire.

Or... upgrade to an HEI ignition... which may cost you very little, depending on what you can scrounge.

BTW, there is an "HEI Conversion How to" sticky in the Electrical section of this bulletin board, should you decide to go that way.

- Mac

So I put in a new condenser and points. Now, Ive been told I may have to gap the points? but I was told I may not? so now I am unsure if I have to or not, and how to do it

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66 Plymouth Valiant 2door. Slant 6 225, 3speed

yes must gap points. Use a dwell meter. (they still sell them at sears)

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1979 W150 Shortbox
225, NP435, 9 1/4, Dana 44

The Good Life.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

What I mean is I do not know how to physically do it, haha.

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66 Plymouth Valiant 2door. Slant 6 225, 3speed

here is what it looks like

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66 Plymouth Valiant 2door. Slant 6 225, 3speed

This video will also help. For the moment you should probably ignore the stuff before 2:30 on the timeline. Setting the points and checking with a dwell meter starts at 2:31.

You can start with a .020 gap for he points. That should get it running.

Don't forget to keep the points scrupulously clean. That means cleaning your feeler gauge with a no residue solvent before using.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c&sns=em

One thing they didn't make really clear in the video.... The gap is measured when the rubbing block is riding on one of the high points of the distributor shaft.

All this is easiest done with the distributor out of the car, but can also be done with the distributor in place. IF you decide to pull the distributor, be extra careful to return it with the rotor pointing to the EXACT same spot it was when you removed it.

I'm probably oversimplifying everything... But I want to be sure your first points job is a successful one!

- Mac

I keep seeing that you have to adjust it when rubbing is riding high, but when I try that there is no change in the gap, I tryed doing it with out it riding high and now it seems to be adjusted, I am not really sure why that happened though it doesnt seem to make much sense after watching the video and reading everything

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66 Plymouth Valiant 2door. Slant 6 225, 3speed

The points must close flat together when they are not rubbing on he high points. You should not be able to get any feeler gauge between the points when you are in the low areas on the distributor shaft.

Yeah I get that, but I dont understand why it wouldnt adjust on a high point? I mean I guess I kinda did it on a high point. Well what I did was move the adjusting plate on a low point before I moved the distributor shaft and then it seemed to when I moved the shaft before locking it down but that was the only way I could get to do anything on a high point.

And I will check the gap when I get home to make sure I cant get a gauge in there when its on a low point

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66 Plymouth Valiant 2door. Slant 6 225, 3speed

Put the high point on the shaft on the plastic block and then losten the screw and with a screwdriver in the triangler hole and the slot in the points, you will be able to move the points to get the proper gap.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Richard. Unless im missing it I do not see another screw other than the one that holds down the points. There is nothing in that triangle hole

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66 Plymouth Valiant 2door. Slant 6 225, 3speed