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| New .30 over piston kit inquiry https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=50964 |
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| Author: | Mopar-haole [ Tue Jan 29, 2013 9:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | New .30 over piston kit inquiry |
Aloha Crome oahu! I'm am currently rebuilding a /6 225 from a 69 valiant to put in my 66 valiant 200 wagon. I have a machinist to do the job but want to bore .30 over and am having trouble finding a piston /rod kit at that size.what brand / site would be a good fit for this project!? Any help would be most helpful! |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Welcome to the site. It all depends what use the engine is going to get. For a regular street driver, Summit racing lists Sealed Power cast pistons at $83.69 per set. Also K-B Silvo lite at $167.95 per set. There may be other sources, also. As for rods have your machinest, recondition yours. One thing to be aware of, If you are using the 66 transmission, you will need the 69 Flexplate or flywheel, and if an automatic an adapter bushing for the end of the crankshaft. I have the adapter available, as does Doc, and TF patty. Not expensive. |
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| Author: | Mopar-haole [ Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the input , and it's going to be pretty much a daily driver , I am using a 66 trans , as for adapter/ flex plate I do not have these, if anyone has for sale or knows a link where I can get them that would be great, can't wait to get the new block in already! Still runnin the stocker from 66 , smoking pretty bad but still has power to get up to 70 up hill! Leaning tower of power!!!! 
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Jan 30, 2013 9:31 am ] |
| Post subject: | Fyi |
Summit does not stock their sealed power pistons, when you order they will be drop shipped from Fed-Mog's facility (last set of .060 overs I got were that way.) See Doc or Pat Blais for the adaptor, if no other takers I have a late ('68+) flex plate I'd be willing to part with. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have both the adapter, and a flexplate. Send me a PM. |
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| Author: | Mopar-haole [ Wed Jan 30, 2013 8:50 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just picked up my 69 valiant 200 225 ! Excited to tear it down and start rebuilding... Got from an older lady for 50$!! She took it out of her 69 and put a reman in... I'm on my way! Any other input anyone has as far as rebuilding the 69 engine would be helpful, this will be my first engine rebuild. Thanks guys! 
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| Author: | Mopar-haole [ Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:16 pm ] |
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Ok so after looking at powercast pistons , I want the 3.430 bore? As I know the stock bore is 3.400 correct? If you were rebuilding a 69 slant for your 66 wagon what would you do? Stock size pistons? The 69 motor has about 50,000 orig miles on it. What do you think are the issues that I should address first? Thanks guys , this is all pretty new to me, this is my third 60s mopar but first one I'm actually going to be able to put some real time and money into.... 66 dart sedan... Gone... 66 valiant sedan ... Gone.. 66 valiant wagon is going to be the one for the long haul!!! |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Fri Feb 01, 2013 3:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would have the machine shop check the bores. You may not need to overbore, just a quick hone and a rering. PS: You have a PM. Your parts are packaged and ready to ship. |
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| Author: | WagonsRcool [ Fri Feb 01, 2013 7:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
There are really only two reasons to bore the cylinders out on an engine. 1) The bore(s) are worn/damaged so that piston fit &/or ring seal aren't within acceptable tolerances- this can include bore taper, out of round, gouges, ridges, or just plain worn oversize. 2)You want to use a specific piston & ring package that won't fit in the present bore. That might be a set of forged pistons you scored at a swap meet. Or you might want "maximum diplacement" that you can get (which is not much on a /6- due to its small bore diameter, ie, if you go from 3.400" to 3.460" you gain about 5 cu in displacement) So in other words, do what charrlie suggested- if your shop determines that the bores (& pistons) are ok- then a hone & rering should work just fine. |
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| Author: | Sprag [ Fri Feb 01, 2013 7:36 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
With 75K on it, mine only showed bore taper at the service limit and a few of the crank journals very close to the limit. All bearings looked fine, no signs of anything running out of round or tapered, so it's getting an overbore and the crank is going out for grinding to get clearances back in spec. I will have my machinist check the main bore alignment just for kicks but I think it will take some real convincing to nudge the wallet open for anything "extra". My main focus now is getting round, straight bores. From 1966 FSM: Std. Bore: 3.4000", Max out of round: .005", Max taper: .010" I was going to go for an .060" overbore thinking I'd get something for "free" by unshrouding the valves a little more, but after scoring dirt cheap (new) pistons and rings in .040" over, I'm not going to fret over it any more. |
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