Quote: I have never liked the multi notch crank gears. To change timing with them you have to remove the cam gear, anyway, to get the crank gear off, and you need a puller to do that. With the cam bushings, just remove the cam gear, change the bushing, reinstall the gear, done.
I wrestled with the rollmaster set and was not appreciative of the crank gear being tight enough to score the crank nose badly (180 grit didn't take those out after heating and removing the crank gearthe easy way).
The standard method that Charlie desribes is good, especially if you are fine tuning things or decide to 'clock' a couple more degrees in the advance later on.
Quote: Ok, so, what's the downside of drilling the timing gear?? Is this something a machine shop must do or have any of you done the drilling yourself?
The only downside would be that you rev the assembly to the moon and the tension on the chain goes slack enough to cause the camgear to bounce a bit and the bushing gets displaced....If you use loctite ont eh cam bolt that should be no problem, second safety feature would be to use a cam stop like doc has detailed to keep the bolt and gear from walking forward. Best insurance I've seen is to drill the gear and cam in place once degreedin and install a second pin into the nose of the cam through the gear thus ensuring if the bushing does comeout the cam stays timed (this also spreads the load of the rotating cam to 2 pins instead of one...).
Drill press is the best to drill the cam gear, instructions will give the bit size to use. But, I have used a Dewalt cordless and a level when the drill press is unavailable wiht no ill effects.
-D.Idiot
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