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 Post subject: engine installing
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 9:32 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:46 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Boonsboro,MD
Car Model:
ive looked all over this forum and i cant find a thread on installing one of these motors where to bolt the hoisting chain and if the engine should be on its 30 degree angle when being hoisted or close to that :shock: :twisted: :x :?

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trying to keep it low key here in my Valiant200


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 Post subject: Lifting
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 9:53 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2008 5:38 am
Posts: 202
Location: Medical Lake, WA
Car Model:
Two bolts/bolt holes at the centerline of the head and where the intake/exhaust manifold goes. There is a post on here about it...it is a bear to find. Look slightly aft of where the thermostat housing is and ponder what the two bolt holes are for...lifting...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:24 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:46 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Boonsboro,MD
Car Model:
imtrying to put the motor in with the trans installed in the car and when i pulled the motor its was quite an adventure getting it out and i used those bolt holes my dad said theres a different way he just cant remember since its been like 20 years since he has installed a slant in a car

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:48 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13115
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Easiest way to install engine and trans as an assembly is to get the car up on jack stands front and rear and to use one of those engine tilting devices that allows you to change the tilt of the motor while it is hooked to the chain.

I have always pulled the engine separate from the trans. Much easier in my book.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:52 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:46 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Boonsboro,MD
Car Model:
yea the trans is still in the car sorry i kinda got my explanation kinda screwy and im trying to put the motor in the car then bolt the two together in the car

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trying to keep it low key here in my Valiant200


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 10:57 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 4:27 pm
Posts: 396
Location: Seattle, WA
Car Model:
The way the factory did it, as I understand, is with a special bracket that bolts into both of those holes in the head. This bracket had two holes, the front one was used to lift the engine alone and the rear to lift engine with transmission still mounted. Or at least that is the gist of it.

I've only ever seen/heard of people using those holes on the head. I've never used a factory hoisting bracket but would imagine it makes the job easier by balancing the engine and transmission appropriately.

One other thing I've seen done is dropping the chasis on the engine. Basically remove the k-frame and other obstacles then lift the front end high enough to slide the engine under the car using a furniture dolly or similar. Then just lower the chasis and use a hoist to lift the engine off the dolly. This method is a lot easier with the proper tools (car lift, one of those low rolling engine stands), but its worth investigating.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:43 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8813
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Valiant , You have a 2 PM's

Rick Covalt

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:12 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:46 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Boonsboro,MD
Car Model:
that sounds like a plan

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:33 am 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
A loop of chain fastened to the front "lifting boss" only, gets the engine to hang "just right" for engine only installation.
DD

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:34 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:46 pm
Posts: 77
Location: Boonsboro,MD
Car Model:
thanks doc how long does the chain have to be exactly

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 4:23 pm 
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Guru
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
Posts: 4880
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
Car Model:
Just long enough to get onto it with the "hook".
(Keep it as short as possible for less upward movement, (lifting) to get over the radiator "yoke".
DD


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 11:29 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 12:59 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Car Model:
This thread was helpful to me. On a related note, what's the most convenient way to support the front of the transmission, once you've unbolted the engine from it, and are preparing to slide it forward and out of the trans? My jackstands are too tall, and I could try sliding a cinder block underneath the trans - not exactly sure what's the best solution...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 1:40 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Oct 19, 2012 6:55 am
Posts: 171
Location: SheCawGo, SillyNoise
Car Model:
Being a temporary thing, I always use a floor jack with a piece of wood on the lifting cup to support the front of the trans while the engine is going in/out. With engine out, I straddle the frame rails with a piece of pipe and use two tapered punches or big screwdrivers to carry the trans for an extended period. Just don't try to tow/drag the chassis with the trans in 'park' like this, a broken bell housing shall result (don't ask how I know this :oops: )

In the pic of my car below, you can see the crossbar (scrap black water pipe) holding up a tapered punch along with a bolt and chunk of wood supporting the trans at the bell bolt holes. After photo was taken, I found another punch to replace the bolt/wood.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 4:12 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 12:59 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Car Model:
Thanks. I'll have to find a piece of pipe, but that's a good idea.


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