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JP timing set alignment
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51128		 Page 1 of 3
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Feb 16, 2013 3:45 pm ]
Post subject:  JP timing set alignment
I installed my timing set today and began to degree in my cam when I noticed that the 2 gears do not line up well at all. The crank gear was heated up and dropped onto the crank very easily. With the cam gear against the block and putting a straight edge on the cam gear it is off by 1/8" - 3/16"compared to the crank gear. Of course the cam can walk forward and "align itself" but that certainly will mess up my oil pump gear pattern, won't it? Or am I just worrying about nothing? If I leave this how do I set my cam stop? If I push it back against the block then the gears will be out of alignment.

Rick

On top of this I need to notch my pistons !! :cry:
Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Sat Feb 16, 2013 6:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
that seems like a lot of play for a new chain! usually some sort of cam button will keep it in place. what is you piston clearance that you have to notch your pistons?
Author:  madmax/6 [ Sat Feb 16, 2013 7:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Is your oil pump installed?And your dist?
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Feb 16, 2013 7:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
The chain is nice and tight. the gears are not in a straight line with each other . I will get a picture for you.

The intake valve is just touching at TDC (no head gasket) so I need a bit more clearance.

Rick
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sat Feb 16, 2013 7:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Is your oil pump installed?
Yes it is.
Author:  CNC-Dude [ Sat Feb 16, 2013 8:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
The chain is nice and tight. the gears are not in a straight line with each other . I will get a picture for you.

The intake valve is just touching at TDC (no head gasket) so I need a bit more clearance.

Rick
What valve lash does your cam have. Solid or hydraulic....Also, TDC usually isn't where the intake valve is closest to the piston, its actually 10-20° ATDC that it's the closest, so you'll need to check there. The exhaust valve is closest between 10-20° BTDC.
Author:  terrylittlejohn [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 7:04 am ]
Post subject: 
if you need to relieve the pistons get a stock valve and weld a small piece of hard steel to the head and file it back to the depth you need and sharpen it.i used an old tread tap. then use a drill to turn it in the head while it on the engine. worked really good.
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 11:30 am ]
Post subject: 
I will answer the valve / piston clearance questions in the other thread in the engine section.

Here is the picture of the JP set installed. Cam is tight against the block and the crank gear is fully seated. The straight edge shows the offset. This measures about .095-.100. I don't see any way to fix this? Any ideas?It seems to me they should run in a true line with each other.
Author:  madmax/6 [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
Are you pushing the cam towards the rear?Try turning just the cam in the rotation direction and see where it wants to bee.Pretty sure mine did the same thing but once the chain is installed it will ride where it should.I do use a cam stop on my frt cover.Guzzi Mark
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Are you pushing the cam towards the rear?
Yes, I am in the photo. It will line itself up when the chain is on and runs a bit, for sure. And if that is Ok, then how do I know that my rear oiling hole in the cam still lines up when the cam comes forward?

I was under the impression that the cam stop was set to a keep the cam back towards the block with a small clearance (.015 sticks in my mind)
But if that is not the case, I will just set the stop to just touch the cam gear bolt when they are lined up.

Will recommended looking to see if the lifter bores and the cam lobes look to be lined up correctly. I will pull the head tomorrow and check.

Rick
Author:  Ron Hamby [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
Rick I had the same alignment problem on one of my builds. I simply cut the surface of the crank back with a file enough to push the crank pully back until it lined up with the cam pully. I had no problems after. It would be nice to machine it. The file worked, just a little slow to remove that much material.
Ron
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 2:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ron we must have been typing at the same time! :lol:

I guess you could remove the gear and chamfer the inside diameter of the gear towards the block, then it could slide on a bit farther.

That would be easier than filing the crank in the block I think. Maybe I am just over thinking this. But I'd rather do it right the first time.

Rick
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 4:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
Definatley not right. The sprockets must be lined up, with the cam gear against the block and the crank gear, fully seated. With the lifters and oil pump installed, and the engine running, it will pull the cam to the rear. Didn't someone post about this same problem not too long ago?
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Yikes!!!
The JP set I got a few years back lined up fine when it all was torqued down, I think they need to recheck their machining, that's ugly...

:(

-D.Idiot
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 5:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ok, sounds like I will remove the crank gear and chamfer the inside edge so it can slide back another .100

Rick
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