Well as the title states... my 225 is failing. The 225 has a Pertronix distributor conversion. Spark plugs have less than 15,000 miles and are cleaned with each oil change and gapped if needed. Has new set of Lectric Ltd wires. Original coil. All new gaskets except cylinder head and rear main (which are the only ones that leak now) and t-stat which I will do soon. Distributor has new cap and rotor, which have dielectric grease on the contacts, and bronze gear. Lash was checked and set in May 2012. When I bought the car it had none of this done and got 19mpg. Everytime it had one of these thing done at the shop (which "specializes" in old cars) the guy would tell me the carb's choke was tuned and idle speeds raised over stock. Each time he would do this. He never told me what he set it to either.Last time he closed the bowl vent. I have no idea how but he screwed with the linkage. Now the car struggles to get 15mpg, which is down from a peak of 23mpg. I've talked to 2 other people who are older gents and they tell me, "just drive it". It pisses me off that I get no advice from them. I can't drive it if I know I can get better mileage. I was thinking of rebuilding the 1920. Car has a hair under 67,000 miles now (original) never been apart.

Welcome to the site. All of the maintenance yo have paid to have someone else do can easily be done by you with the help of the information and members on this board.

Carburetor manuals and repair videos are located HERE

Valve adjustment procedure is located HERE

Much more info is saved in the "Frequently Asked Questions" thread at the top of each sub-forum, and you can always ask questions. The search button is a very useful tool since most everything slant six related has been discussed in depth at some point on this board.

Please post pictures of your car is possible. We all are addicts to slant six pictures.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Also, when I drive the car it is smooth until I get to a stoplight, then it idles rough, then I drive the next light and stop, the car idles smoother than the last light, and the next light it is rough again. It also has this problem on short hard stops aswell. This has always been happening but less harsh after repairing vacuum leaks.

Some of the work I did do myself...about half. My main reason for not doing a lot of the work is the lack of tools and time. Don't get me wrong, I have tools but nothing fancy. Just hand tools and some specialty tools. Tharnks for the reply Reed
I'll post some nice pics soon.

You really don;t need more than a basic hand tool set to do most anything on these cars. The problem you face is finding someone who really knows how to work on these cars. The old timers are getting scarce and most young guys don't know what to do if they can't plug it into a computer.

Your best bet would be to find some slant six enthusiasts in your area who are willing to spend a few weekends with you fixing up your car.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I know exactly what you mean. Most guys my age hate carbs and old cars. I relish talking to the old guys and hear them talk about the old days. I feel like I can't trust anyone so I want to start doing more myself and save money to boot!

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

My town must be an exception. Most of the guys who actually work on their vehicles are running older vehicles--mostly old dodge trucks actually.
Rural Ontario, eh? Haha

"Rural Ontario" = there is your answer.

"Rural" = people are more self reliant and know how to do things.

"Ontario" = Canada = less of the "buy a new one, don't fix it" attitude that is prevalent in America. Enjoy it!

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I guess the point of my post is to get some advice to where I can start to solve my problems and get my economy back, and maybe free up some power I never knew I had. Any ideas gentlemen?

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Hi ILMopars,,
I was wondering if you have a break booster?
My truck had an intermittent vacuum leak at the booster, (very hard to detect because it only acted up once in a while).

Wiggle the hose around where it attaches to the booster check valve.

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Slant power!!!
At least I try...

nope. Manual brakes and steering.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

How about worn throttle shaft holes??

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

The Carb was rebuilt in November 2011before O bought the car. I found a leaky fuel pump and 5 quarts of fuel in the crankcase. That was taken care of ASAP. Carb was foundries be set super rich (for obvious reasons). I think it was a band-aid syndrome. I am planning to rebuild the. 1920 myself after I order the kit later this week. Anyways I primed the Carb and had fuel dribble out of the throttle shaft :/

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Did you read the post's Reed posted?

if your carb is leaking at the throttle shafts-- then that is a problem that needs addressed.

there are reputable shops to re-bush the throttle shafts on those carbs.

when was the last time the valves were adjusted?-- what timing are you running now?
what car/year is this?

search this forum-- lot's of information-- if you are looking for max mileage-- Aggressive Ted has a detailed account of his slant car 25-28 mpg.

take the next step , don't pay that shop & buy the tools you are missing-- with the $$ saved from the shop---

don't need much-- timing light, vacuum gauge & basic hand tools will do a lot. (a multi-meter too)
Lawrence

Yes I read Reeds posts.

The car in concern is in my signature.

The valves were adjusted in May 2012, it was in the initial post.

I am absolutely looking for Max mileage that was my reason for buying a slant six. That doesn't mean I want a slouch for a car.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.