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Engine Rebuild - Update
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51277		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Eatkinson [ Fri Mar 01, 2013 3:41 pm ]
Post subject:  Engine Rebuild - Update
After a brief interlude, now back to our regularly scheduled program...

Last weekend, I had a hiccup, trying to get off the harmonic damper. Resolved that mid-week, with help from all of you. Thanks! Yet to do tomorrow will be to remove the cam bolt, gear, timing chain. But this week, I started thinking a little deeper...

What do I want to do with this engine? Initially, I wanted to rebuild it stock without anything other than the most necessary mods. The plan for the '63 Dart wagon is to become the daily driver. Then, I realized as a dd, I would probably want to make a few upgrades to enhance performance. For example, anything to help with mileage improvements is something that I would do, or at least seriously consider. I've already got some answer to those questions from Ag. Ted.

I'm at the point now, where I'm inspecting the pistons, bores, and chambers. I still have to tear the engine down more, but pretty soon, I'm going to decide whether to simply re-ring and use the existing pistons, or overbore, and then honing will be necessary.

Just read an article on the drawbacks of honing and reboring (if you don't absolutely have to), and realized I don't yet know if I have to. It would be great if I could avoid having to overbore and hone. But I still have to take measurements to check the bores for being out of round, etc. This is all a learning experience.

With the suggested mileage improvements that Aggressive Ted made in another thread:

1. Are new over-size pistons a requirement on a mileage-improvement rebuild?
2. For this build, do I need a new cam?
3. If the car was burning oil before and at least one cylinder had low compression (#6 on this engine), could a simple ring job be the easiest solution and would this solution work with other mileage improvements?
4. Are new rods required on a mileage improvement rebuild?
5. Look at the close-up of #6 bore below. I've heard the term 'egging' but I don't know what that means. Does this bore look 'normal', 'worn', 'egged', or should I not rely on visual inspection, but on measuring?

Thanks all.

Image

Image
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Fri Mar 01, 2013 5:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
With the suggested mileage improvements that Aggressive Ted made in another thread:

1. Are new over-size pistons a requirement on a mileage-improvement rebuild?
2. For this build, do I need a new cam?
3. If the car was burning oil before and at least one cylinder had low compression (#6 on this engine), could a simple ring job be the easiest solution and would this solution work with other mileage improvements?
4. Are new rods required on a mileage improvement rebuild?
5. Look at the close-up of #6 bore below. I've heard the term 'egging' but I don't know what that means. Does this bore look 'normal', 'worn', 'egged', or should I not rely on visual inspection, but on measuring?
1. Yes, but not for just mileage. After 380,000 miles the bores were no longer round and were not straight from top to bottom. They had to be bored out to straighten them.
2. No, just have yours reground. I used Delta Cams in Tacoma, other like Oregon Cams.
3. No....the pistons oil holes are probably clogged. You need new pistons that are not plugged chipped or badly worn.
4. Not for mileage....Rods need to be re-sized for the new bearings on an old worn engine. I had mine re-shotpeened as well to add more strength.
5. You will have to check them with a bore gauge. Egging is an out of round condition which may be at the bottom of the bore.

A key question you did not ask was, is increasing compression a must for better mileage. More compression makes the engine much spunkier and you don't have to push it as hard because of the extra power, more vacuum, etc.
The answer is yes. I would deck the block as much as possible and take very little off the head, just to straighten it. They do warp....
Author:  Eatkinson [ Fri Mar 01, 2013 8:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ted, are you talking about using the stock head? I remember either you or Doc recommended a 68-72 head for different/better chamber design, plus a stock look if I cared about it (which I do). Or could I get away with keeping the stock head?

Thanks for the feedback.
Author:  Doc [ Sat Mar 02, 2013 8:44 am ]
Post subject: 
It would be pretty easy for me to rebuild a "street performance" 68-72 SL6 head for you... and to ship it to LA.
Drop me a PM for details.
DD
Author:  Eatkinson [ Sun Mar 03, 2013 12:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hey Doc, tried sending you a PM a couple times, but for whatever reason, I cannot tell if the messages have been sent to you. Let me know if you don't see them..
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