Can i ad a Brake Power Booster in a 73 Dodge Dart 225 with
Front and Rear Drum Brakes?

Thank You for any Help
Karl

i guess you can add one, it might tend to lock up the front brakes fairly easily though. if you go to a junkyard be sure to unbolt the pushrod from the brake pedal and use that in your swap as i think it may be different than the one currently in your car.
get the vacuum hose/check valve and manifold nipple while you're there, too.

-james

_________________

I do not think the naster cyl for manual brakes fits a booster. I cant remember for sure as it has been years since I looked into this.

You may want to consider the disc swap though. It is not that hard and works sooo much better.

I've got a '74 Dart Sport and have been considering the disk brake swap from a '74 Swinger. It's booster and master cylinder are missing in action, but has some sort of bracket mounted on the firewall where they should have been. I just spent a back breaking couple of hours yesterday robbing a Super Six from a '78 Volare. I noticed it still has its booster and MC. Maybe it will fit, I think to myself.

Meanwhile, back at the shop...
Wait a minute, my '74 Dart's speedometer cable comes through the firewall just a couple of inches above the MC location, and it's not very flexible. Looks to me like it is going to be in the way of mounting a booster/MC, if I make the disk conversion. Do I have to go with power booster? Can I just reuse my same old MC? Do I have to get a different MC? Do I need to rob the proportioning valve from the '78 Volare? What all else do I need to consider? So many questions, my heads hurting.

Help,
Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

Switching from manual to power brakes is not what would cause a lockup,
leaving the residual check valves that are used in a 4 wheel drum car in a converted disc car would, though. That is tha main diff between a ft disc/rear drum master and a 4 wheel drom master. On the manual to power swap, though, considering all else is equal, ie., still a 4 wheel drum car or still a ft disc rear drum car, usually the manual brake car will have a slightly larger diameter master cylinder bore. I can see where it could make your brakes a little "touchy" if a manual master is simply bolted to a booster, although I believe that the manual master pushrod setup would prevent this. As long as you get the master with the booster, you should be OK. Now on the front drum to disc, be sure to get the proportioning valve off the donor car.

Can someone tell me what the two little items are that thread into
a Super Six exhaust manifold near the firewall? One has a rubber hose connected to the power brake booster and a tiny purple hose to the firewall. The other one has a two wires, one having a rubber boot.
Since I don't have power brakes (yet), can they simply be plugged temporarily?

Jerry

_________________
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity.
Ignorance is not knowing any better.
Stupidity is knowing, yet doing it anyway.

i think you meant the intake manifold as the power brake booster gets vacuum from the intake manifold. they are just vacuum taps to power various engine controls and acessories. and yes, they may be plugged when not in use. if you can break the fittings free with a good wrench and some penetrant (don't try too hard) the way to go would be to screw a single pipe plug in place of the vacuum tee as it looks nicer and there are no rubber plugs to pop off in case of a backfire.

-james

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That second item in the intake manifold, the ones with the wires, is called the Charge Temperature Sensor. It monitors the intake temperature for emissions control reasons.

Mike

James,
You're exactly right, I did mean the "intake" manifold. If I don't locate and install a power booster, I will do as you suggest and use a pipe plug for the vacuum line.

mszauner,
The Super Six intake came from a '78 Volare. I am putting it in my '74 Dart Sport. Will there be some place those wires on the Charge Temperature Sensor need to be plugged? I don't remember my old original manifold having this item. What would it hurt to plug that hole as well?

Jerry

I have a 73 Duster with a newer engine (I think early 80's) I also have the carb for a 73 on it. That sensor should hook back into the carb controls. I bet you also do not have the electronic carb controls either. Mine is still in the manifold but not connected to anything. It runs fine (finally after much help from here). I will probably also remove it and plug it just for aesthetic reasons. I would say do the same, unless you have a new carb that requires it.

Mike