hello all!

new to the site, new to classic cars as of 6 months ago. i purchased a very beat up 65 valiant 100 for 500 bucks and saved it from the scrapper. wasnt even looking to get into classics.
wont get into all the work ive done getting this car road worthy, it was so bad. i have more work, time, and money in the car then it'll ever really be worth $wise. 5k as of right now haha :.(.. heres to second chances right?!
to give you some idea how bad this car was, both a arm mounts (on the front subframe) were completely rotted and broken off, front end of the car was falling off. anyway, she runs stops and handles very nicely now, not bad for a ratty little valiant whos been abused its whole life, then left to rot. lol rebuild pretty much all the cars systems and everything in and on the car works now (nothing did i mean nothing). so here are my real questions.

i have purchased a factory 2bbrl intake, along with all the brackets & hardware, and a new holley 2bbrl carb thats supposed to be a direct replacment for the carter 2bbrl that came factory. my issue is throttle linkage, it seems i need a throttle cable, and not the rotating bar type linkage i have now. the brackets seem to be for a cable, not bar thropttle. the cars a 65, but if i had to guess, the 2bbrl intake is off a 70's model (had to have the machine shop at school make an egr block off plate) surly im not the only poor soul who has run into this issue.

i also need sheetmetal as i cant find any! shes got some rot. rockers, lower qtrs, front floors. lol like i said its a really cool beat up rat right now, but id like to start get'n her straight. she (lilly) runs like a monster considering that #3 in my 170 has 94 psi she consumes pil, but runs haaard.

heres another questions, id like to go through my 170 mill, and my 3 speed manual. i need as much advice as possible, as i already have electronic ignition, noninstalled 2 bbrl and 2bbrl alum intake, and a 2inch exhuast from the manifold back. also i adjusted my valves cold to 12/22 instead of hot and running at 10/20. anyone else done this, im not gonna destroy anything am i, seems to run good? its a &#@% ton quiter then when i got it (doesnt sound like a machine gun like when i first fired her up)

id like to have a good strong street engine that makes as close to 200hp as possible, and over 275lbft. id also like to know if the 3 speed manual itself, the drive shaft and rear end can take those numbers with out issue.

if thats all possible, can anyone point in the right direction for this fantasy 200hp/275lbft engine (engine kits,cams, valves, headwork) and a clutch kit/drivetrain that can handle it!

those numbers seem very reachable to me. CHEERS!!!!

Welcome aboard OleSkoolTony, you have accomplished a lot of work so far.
Look for a 1965-66 air conditioned slant six A Body, or any 1967 A body and up; all are equipped with a cable operated accelerator pedal, and it can be transplanted into your car eliminating the rotating rod, and bottom hinged pedal contraption.
Three speed if in good repair will probably take a perky slant, the 7 ¼ rear will hold up under granny driving, but sooner or later after one too many clutch dumps you will be looking for something stouter, and a tow truck. Some here have had long term success with the small rear ends behind a strong slant, others no luck at all, and I’m sure they will chime in with timely advice.

Most folks dislike the three speed due to its gear ratios and three on the tree shifter, and convert to a floor shifted four speed along with a stronger rear end which may or may not require a different length drive shaft depending on axel choice.

Check the Engine build matrix in the FAQ.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC