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| Thermostat Replcement...A How-To Thread https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51715 |
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| Author: | ILMopars [ Sun Apr 14, 2013 7:45 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Thermostat Replcement...A How-To Thread |
Supplies: 1 Roll of paper towels 2 Catchpans 1 Piece of 120 grit sand paper Tools 1 9/16" 3/8" drive socket 1 foot pound torque wrench 1 3/8" ratchet 1 3/8" extension 1-1/2" length 1 1" wide chisel 1 Pair of Corbin pliars or screwdriver 1 lever Place one catchpan under the car near the front. Open radiator cap. Use Corbin pliars or screwdriver to undo upper radiator hose. Hold a catchpan under the engine side of the hose and remove it. Use the catchpan to collect the antifreeze. Remove the hose from the radiator. Use the ratchet and 9/16" socket on the top bolt. Remove it. Add the extension to the ratchet and remove the lower bolt. Be sure catchpan fits under the head flange, antifreeze will go everywhere. Set thermostat housing aside. Use lever to pry thermostat out. You may use a helper to hold the catchpan for more antifreeze. The catch pan under the car is there just in case or if you have no help. Use the 120 grit sandpaper on the thermostat housing to sand off the old gasket. DO NOT use a screw driver. Steel gouges aluminum. Use the chisel to clean tbhe flange on the head, sandpaper for the last bits on the head. Clean the surfaces on the head and thermostat housing. Place new thermostat in the housing. Install gasket. Install thermostat housing back on engine. Torque to 30 ft.-lbs. Reinstall hose. Fill with coolant. Go inside car and turn heater on full blast. Start car and run to operating temp. Top off coolant and replace radiator cap. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Apr 14, 2013 8:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Couple other tips. |
The steel gouges aluminum comment is not necessary if you have one of the iron thermostat housings (for 70's guys they are pot metal and can be gouged). You can cut 10 minutes out of the process by using a good cordless drill and a cup style brush attachment(the one with nylon bristles not the wire brush type welders use)- there also is a nice Snap On attachment made of rubber like this as well and will make short work of any gasket while not harming the surface. (For the chemical prep guys, Permatex Gasket Remover works OK but takes too long to soak through the gasket to make it effective for thsi job). Gaskets are available in two varieties: The newer version have a stick and peel backing so you can put the thermostat in the housing and sticky the gasket to it to hold it. The regular version is not this way, and you can use a thin smear of RTV sealant to acheive the same results. One other fun item: make sure the thermostat is seated correctly when the housing is held against the head, one wrong slip and the t-stat will be out of the cup...fastening it down in this manner will cause the housing to not seat, and given the age of the material can cause the housing to crack. If no torque wrench is available the "pinky" method or wrist twist method can be used to tighten, do not 'cinch it down' like a motor mount bolt. Turning the heater on full blast is not necessary, the heater core is like a smaller radiator and air passing through it can delay the warm up slightly (results may vary depending on location, temp, and state of engine build/tune and condition of the cooling system), on the standard mopar the fan switch controls the fan, and the other control just adjusts a door/flap to divert air to the correct vent and divert air from the passenger side cowl opening through the heater core (or not). Good write up. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | AussiePlymouths [ Wed Apr 24, 2013 3:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | Yes, good write up |
Thanks lots of good info from both of you. |
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