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| Engine and carb identification help https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51729 |
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| Author: | tlemond [ Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | Engine and carb identification help |
| Author: | Reed [ Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:59 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Engine and carb identification help |
| Author: | tlemond [ Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Hi Reed, Thanks for the quick response! This carb has holes in the venturi plate too. The canister purge fitting on the carb is just plugged into the wye fitting on the dist advance just temporary, the wye fitting is not open. Should this vac line connect to the vapor return line on the right back fender. The fuel pump has a third fitting where the vapor return line should connect i think. Should I tee these to together and attach? What carb kit should I order, the carb tag is long gone. Will any BBD kit work? This carb has no bowl vent, or is it internal? I saw an enrichment valve carb on the jeep forum, it was a 1977. Is the 3sp manual trans common? Did all super six manifolds have the EGR valve? Should I leave it disconnected? The picture was supposed to be of the engine number. The engine stamp plate is very faint, I cant read it either. Looks like a big 3 and some numbers. Can I use ink or something to bring out any detail? It was covered with crud when I got it. My son and I are going to get it running, I'm not much for body work but maybe he will be! Thanks for the help, Tim |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Tue Apr 16, 2013 1:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | A good find... |
Manual floor shift cars are getting hard to find (mostly because they got modded to V-8's and 4 speeds in the 80's and most did not survive after getting wrapped around trees, etc...) Either way you have a duster body that is a good start and someone already upgraded you to the super six, so you are already ahead on the mileage and power bolt on improvement. Also being a stock 3 spd car unless the rear was swapped out, it will have a nice 3.23 ratio which will make the car easy to get off the line and if you get things running well, you should have no problem scratching the tires. Another kudo is it's floor shift, so later as you do upgraqdes, you can install a mopar 4 speed, or for mileage be on the look out for an A-833 OD, bellhousing, shifter, and rods and it's a bolt in at that point! Looks like the cars has manual drum brakes (or at least the master cylinder has the drum brake dual pot). So be on the look out at your local junkyard for dusters/valiants, etc that are 1973-1976 with disc brakes as that's a great upgrade for the car. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | matv91 [ Tue Apr 16, 2013 6:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Looking at different years fsm. First year for external bowl vent 1978. Idle air enrichment valve first year 1975. Take throttle plate off see if there is a restrictor [ small brass bushing] in the idle channel,located between the transfer slot and the the idle port. First year for that 1977. |
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| Author: | matv91 [ Tue Apr 16, 2013 6:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From 1975 Chassis Service Manual . The purpose of the idle enrichment system is to reduce cold engine stalling by use of a metering system related to the basic carburetor instead of the choke. The system enriches carburetor mixtures in the off idle area during that portion of vehicle operation related to cold or semi-cold operation. A small vacuum controlled diaphragm mounted near the top of the carburetor controls idle system air. When control vacuum is applied to the diaphragm idle system air is reduced.Air losses within the idle system strengthen the small vacuum signal and fuel flows increase. As a result of more fuel and less air , the fuel air mixtures enrich. Vacuum signal to the carburetor diaphragm is controlled by a thermal switch threaded into contact with engine coolant. Cold engines have switches in an open condition to pass the vacuum signal [manifold vacuum] to the carburetor diaphragm. During warm-up the switches close to eliminate vacuum signals and return carburetor metering to normal , lean levels. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Tue Apr 16, 2013 7:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Which won't work because... |
Quote: Vacuum signal to the carburetor diaphragm is controlled by a thermal switch threaded into contact with engine coolant
He has a pre 1974-1975 head and it does not have the threaded bung near the thermostat housing for the temp switch for the system. (Also he lacks the vacuum amplifier necessary to make the system work right as well...not like this is an item that still works after 40 years anyway). I have a sleeve that can be inserted into the upper radiator hose after cutting it in half that also allows the installation of the vacuum switch, but that'd be another coolant leak waiting to happen...So like some of the later manuals and TSB's note that if not needed, cap the nipple and forget about it (as seen in the photo). -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: This carb has holes in the venturi plate too.
Definitely a 318 carburetor.Quote: The canister purge fitting on the carb is just plugged into the wye fitting on the dist advance just temporary, the wye fitting is not open. Should this vac line connect to the vapor return line on the right back fender.
That I don't know. A factory service manual would serve you well here.Quote: The fuel pump has a third fitting where the vapor return line should connect i think. Should I tee these to together and attach?
Again, I don't know. I highly recommend you purchase a factory service manual so you can see what easy hose is actually for so you can then determine how to adapt the non-stock carburetor to your vehicle.Quote: What carb kit should I order, the carb tag is long gone. Will any BBD kit work?
I always order a kit for a 1978 Plymouth Volare station wagon with a 225 Super Six. The kits usually have all the gaskets for nearly all the variations of BBD. I like the Walker brand, if you can find it.Quote: This carb has no bowl vent, or is it internal? I saw an enrichment valve carb on the jeep forum, it was a 1977.
Lots of variations of the BBD out there.Quote: Is the 3sp manual trans common?
Listen to DI on this. I am an automatic tranny man, myself.Quote: Did all super six manifolds have the EGR valve?[/url]
Good luck! I hate bodywork too. If you can find someone local who like bodywork (they are out there, but I don't understand them) you should be ahead of the game.
Yes. However, there were export two barrel intake manifolds in the 60s that did not have an EWGR valve and there were Mopar Performance and other aftermarket intakes that did not have an EGR valve. Quote: Should I leave it disconnected?
Short answer, yes. Long term, if you want to, you can reconnect it and play with carb jetting and distributor timing advances to eek out a bit more fuel economy. Running the EGR valve also lets you run more compression and timing since the recirculated exhaust gasses help reduce preignition, but you really have to know what you are doing to take advantage of the primitive EGR system on a slant six.Quote: The picture was supposed to be of the engine number. The engine stamp plate is very faint, I cant read it either. Looks like a big 3 and some numbers. Can I use ink or something to bring out any detail? It was covered with crud when I got it.
Brush white out over the stamps, let it dry, then gently rub it clean with your thumb or other finger. The white out should stay in the grooves of the stamped letters and numbers.Quote: My son and I are going to get it running, I'm not much for body work but maybe he will be! Thanks for the help, Tim |
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