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1982 Dodge D-150 /6 w overdrive Carb and Emiss. questions
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Author:  grubby65 [ Wed Apr 17, 2013 6:37 am ]
Post subject:  1982 Dodge D-150 /6 w overdrive Carb and Emiss. questions
Last year my 15 year old son purchased a 1982 Dodge D-150 with a /6 and overdrive transmission. He turned 16 last weekend so now it is time to get it running a little better. The truck had been in storage for years, but prior to us purchasing it the previous owner had installed a new long block. My questions are concerning the vacuum tubing, carburetor, etc.
1) The carb on the engine now has numbers 6R5785 4287015 & 97622311. I was wondering if this is the original?
2) The vacuum routing diagram does not show a line going to the distributor advance, but the truck has one. Is this correct and if so which port on the carburetor should it come from.
3) What is the CCEV? One of the vacuum connections is broken off in the funky connector and it is zip tied to it. Is this needed?
4) You can see where there used to be a bung on the exhaust pipe. The tubing has been smashed shut and has no tubing run to it.

Is there a reliable manual that would show me correct conncections. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This has been a teaching tool for my son. Last week we installed a new stereo, so he got to learn how to soldier and wire item. Now it is on to the motor. I'm more familiar with non-emissions vehicles so this is new to me.
Thank
Author:  carlherrnstein [ Wed Apr 17, 2013 7:03 am ]
Post subject: 
Hello, I have a 85 with the od trans I got when I was 16.
It had the factory electronic spark advance system (lean burn) That system uses a computer that mesures engine vaccum and readings from a O2 sensor and a bunch of other things that sets the timing and fuel mix.

The factory lean burn dizzy doesnt have a vaccum advance or mechanical advance cause the timing is set by the computer. So you either have a points dizzy or a electronic dizzy (neither is original) take the cap off and look in there if there is a gear shaped wheel on the center shaft its electronic, if its got a hexogon shaped peice that has a small spring loaded arm riding against it then its a points dizzy.

I cant remeber what the #of the OE carb was but it had lots of wires running to it. If yours is a lean burn carb it might not have a port for the vaccume advance but you can look, you will need a vaccume gauge hook the gauge up to each port the one you want has no vaccum at idle but has vaccum just off idle. I ended up putting a holley 1920 on mine.

Is the funky connector on the #6 intake runner?

The bung is probably for the O2 sensor. The tubing is probably for the air injection system. I found a factory service manual on amazon for $75.

It sounds like the lean burn system has been disabled of part way removed, which might not be a bad thing cause it can be troublesome, but if you have to have it smog tested it will never pass without it.
Author:  Reed [ Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 1982 Dodge D-150 /6 w overdrive Carb and Emiss. question
Quote:
Last year my 15 year old son purchased a 1982 Dodge D-150 with a /6 and overdrive transmission. He turned 16 last weekend so now it is time to get it running a little better. The truck had been in storage for years, but prior to us purchasing it the previous owner had installed a new long block. My questions are concerning the vacuum tubing, carburetor, etc.
1) The carb on the engine now has numbers 6R5785 4287015 & 97622311. I was wondering if this is the original?
2) The vacuum routing diagram does not show a line going to the distributor advance, but the truck has one. Is this correct and if so which port on the carburetor should it come from.
Post a picture of the carb as well as the distributor. That will make it a bit easier to tell if they are original or not.

If the vacuum diagram does not show a line going to the distributor, does it show a vacuum line going to a box called the "SCC"?
Quote:
3) What is the CCEV? One of the vacuum connections is broken off in the funky connector and it is zip tied to it. Is this needed?
The CCEV is short for "Coolant Controlled EV", but I forget specifically what the E and the V stand for. It is part of the emissions system, likely tied into the EGR vacuum circuit. Depending on the emissions laws in your area, you may or may not need to get this repaired.
Quote:
4) You can see where there used to be a bung on the exhaust pipe. The tubing has been smashed shut and has no tubing run to it.
The bung in the exhaust pipe is for the A.I.R. or "smog" pump to inject air. It sound like the previous owner cut the metal tube and crimped it shut.
Quote:
Is there a reliable manual that would show me correct connections.
Yes. The factory service manual is the best tool you can ever purchase for your vehicle. Lucky for you 1982 Dodge factory service manuals are not in high demand. HERE's one for $20!
Quote:
Any help would be greatly appreciated. This has been a teaching tool for my son. Last week we installed a new stereo, so he got to learn how to soldier and wire item. Now it is on to the motor. I'm more familiar with non-emissions vehicles so this is new to me.
Thank
Then you definitely ned to get the factory service manual as well as the books discussed HERE.

It sounds to me like your truck was originally built with a variant of the "lean burn" engine control system. These could be ignition system only, carburetor only, or both ignition and carburetor systems controlled by a computer. I suspect that a previous owner of the truck ripped out the motor and hacked up the emissions and engine control systems in an attempt to "fix" the truck. Unfortunately for you, this means you will have to first (a) determine how the truck was originally built to see what should have been under the hood, (b) carefully inspect what is under the hood now to see what was done when the previous owner "fixed" the engine, and (c) determine what needs to be repaired and corrected to get the truck running cleanly, efficiently, and legally.

At a minimum, it sounds like the previous owner installed either a points or standard electronic ignition and abandoned the original "lean burn" ignition system. It also sounds like the previous owner removed the smog pump (hence the cut and crimped bung in the exhaust pipe). One really needs to know what they are doing before one goes cutting pipes and snipping wires willy-nilly on a lean burn system. You will need to get in there and determine what, exactly, was done to the truck.

You need to check the laws in your area regarding emissions equipment and vehicle inspection. If the vehicle was off the road in storage for years you may or may not need to pass a safety inspection to get it legal to drive again. This may or may not include an emissions equipment inspection. In fact, the first thing I recommend you do is contact your local vehicle licensing agency and find out what you need to do to get the truck legal again. Once you know that, you can determine what path to take with the engine repairs. Return it to stock? Fix the problems created by the previous hack jobs?

Pictures are always enjoyed and appreciated, and be sure to ask lots of questions so we can get you going down the right path. It is never fun to sort out someone else's shoddy "repairs."
Author:  grubby65 [ Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:45 am ]
Post subject:  Thanks for the info
I will take a better look tonite and try to post some pictures. The distributor on the truck is electronic. It has the small control module mounted on the right fenderwell. I think it is a 3 prong connector. The carburetor is not a feedback unit. It only has a wire going to the bowl vent valve. We have no safety or emissions inspections in the state of Nebraska. It runs O.K., but not great. It is pretty "cold blooded". What kind of started this whole thing is I was going to rebuild the carburetor because of the long storage. But, I wanted to make sure I was rebuilding the correct carburetor. But, it appears the carb is probably not the correct one. I don't want to get into a lot of legalities, but I 100% agree that there are too many "shade tree" mechanics that go through and hack up vehicles tryying to "fix" them but cause more problems than they cure. I don't know if I want to go through the expense of re-installing all of the emissions control stuff. But, I dont' want it to run so lean or rich that I cause other issues. The carbon cannisters are still present and are hooked up.
Author:  Reed [ Wed Apr 17, 2013 10:26 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Thanks for the info
Quote:
I will take a better look tonite and try to post some pictures. The distributor on the truck is electronic. It has the small control module mounted on the right fenderwell. I think it is a 3 prong connector.
No electronic ignition module had a three prong connector. you are most likely looking at the EGR timer or possibly the voltage regulator (but voltage regulators usually have two prongs, not three).

Quote:
The carburetor is not a feedback unit. It only has a wire going to the bowl vent valve. We have no safety or emissions inspections in the state of Nebraska. It runs O.K., but not great. It is pretty "cold blooded". What kind of started this whole thing is I was going to rebuild the carburetor because of the long storage. But, I wanted to make sure I was rebuilding the correct carburetor. But, it appears the carb is probably not the correct one.
The problem here is that if the truck was originally a lean-burn equipped truck that had a computer controlled carb, no non-computer controlled carb will be "correct." Any carb you use will require you to do at least a little bit of "fudging" to get it to work right.
Quote:
I don't want to get into a lot of legalities, but I 100% agree that there are too many "shade tree" mechanics that go through and hack up vehicles tryying to "fix" them but cause more problems than they cure. I don't know if I want to go through the expense of re-installing all of the emissions control stuff. But, I dont' want it to run so lean or rich that I cause other issues. The carbon cannisters are still present and are hooked up.
If your conscience and the law allow you to run the vehicle without emissions controls, the you will be better off (1) keeping the charcoal canisters hooked up and functional; (2) removing the catalytic converters since if they are not clogged now they will be eventually if run with a carb; (3) leaving the smog pump off (if the cats are gone, no point to the smog pump); (4) disabling the EGR valve; (5) installing HEI ignition; (6) making sure the distributor mechanical and vacuum advance systems are functioning correctly and optimized for your truck; (7) making sure the choke is correctly hooked up and functioning correctly; (8)removing the mrs of wires and vacuum hoses associated with the lean burn and EGR systems.

Good luck and keep us posted!
Author:  grubby65 [ Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:00 am ]
Post subject: 
Your are right, the control module is the 4 prong unit. Why would you need to go with an HEI ignition, instead of just using the Chrysler Electronic?
Author:  Reed [ Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:10 am ]
Post subject: 
HEI offers a better spark for improved MPG and performance, but if you have Mopar electronic ignition it is fine. If you wee converting from the lean burn system for the first time I would recommend HEI, but if the mopar system is already installed and working just leave it be.
Author:  mattelderca [ Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:16 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Your are right, the control module is the 4 prong unit. Why would you need to go with an HEI ignition, instead of just using the Chrysler Electronic?
The HEI upgrade is the system of choice for a few reasons. Parts are readily available and reliable. It is simple to install and performs very well. You can delete the ballast resistor, a failure point.

The old Mopar boxes were good in their day, but most older units, which were built better, are now too old to be reliable. The quality of the new Mopar style boxes are suspect at best. Reliability has gone out the window.

A stronger coil can also be installed with the HEI. This allows you to open plug gaps for a fatter hotter spark.
Done right these HEI conversions perform better than most other offerings.
Author:  Ssg Pohlman [ Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:38 am ]
Post subject: 
You can use either Chrysler or GM HEI is another popular setup. I have an 84 and learned from it here. Also as recommended I would misplace the cat as well. I ordered from auto-zone a new down pipe for an 81 d-150 and it deletes it, but I'll tell you it comes w an O2 port welded in as well. I went w a 2bbl super six so no clue on the 1bbl. Other than that I'd go w what Reed suggested. I chose a dizzy from a 77 volare for my HEI but that was before I really researched on here. Tons of info to include mini starters and ppl that have forgot more than I can learn. A few other builds of the trucks down in the "slixers gallery" swing by make a build thread and let's see what you're working with. And btw welcome to the .org
Pohlman
Author:  grubby65 [ Thu Apr 18, 2013 7:01 am ]
Post subject: 
Here are some pictures of the my Son's pickup. The first phase of the project was to install a replacement stereo. Just turning 16 it gave him the opportunity to learn how to run wire, soldier, etc. My wife and I bought him a JL Amp and 8" sub for his 16th birthday, the rest he bought himself. We installed 6x9" Infinity Kappa speakers behind the seat in boxes we made and 6" component Infinity Kappa spekers in the doors. We made a plate to install the tweeters in place of the factory speaker in the dash.
Image
Author:  Reed [ Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:22 am ]
Post subject: 
Image

Sounds like he is off to a good start!
Author:  grubby65 [ Thu Apr 18, 2013 9:57 am ]
Post subject:  What did I do wrong?
I have other pictures to post, but I don't know what I did wrong.
Author:  Reed [ Thu Apr 18, 2013 10:00 am ]
Post subject: 
See HERE
Author:  grubby65 [ Thu Apr 18, 2013 10:43 am ]
Post subject:  Here are some pictures of the Engine Compartment
Image

Image

Image

Image
Author:  grubby65 [ Thu Apr 18, 2013 10:45 am ]
Post subject:  Interior
Image

The new shifter boot should be here today. Where have you guys gotten replacement door weatherstripping from? The drivers side is is pretty poor shape.
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