Well im a new user here but i had been a proud owner of the mighty 225
Since 2002 and well my 1973 valiant its has been restored twice the engine remains completely stock completely original its over 400k or maybe 600k miles. The engine itself its good it burns alittle oil but without any problems some years ago i changed the point ignition for the electronic and also i did change my mechanical steering to power steering. And it was running good, but since last year im having a very annoying problem.
When my engine is warm i mean operational temp and i make a sharp left turn my engine starts to struggle and then dies i have to be very aggressive in the throttle to start it up again but when the car is cold its normal it runs fine this only happens when i do sharp turn at hot engine temp (operational temp)
So far i have changed all the fuel lines fuel filter fuel pump and i changed my carb. Why this is happening? What to do next?
By the way my engine when is cold is a beast excellent power and torque but when it gets hot it looses almost 40-50% of the power and if it passes the middle part of the temp gauge it leaves my like 2hp hahahaha just joking but indeed it gets very very slow and almost no power at all
Thanks for your help

Interesting that you changed from points, but the 1973 model year was the first year for the Mopar EI system on 6 cylinder cars...(previous owner decided to change to something 'retro' at that time?).

Being that the problem occurs warm, a couple of things come to mind:

1) my first thought is vacc. leak, because when cold the choke is applied making the carb rich at any throttle setting (less air/more fuel).
2) if it occurs turning a direction, that almost smacks of a stock problem from 1974 where the floats didn't work right and a hard turn equaled a flame out....have you rebuilt the carb recently and qualified it's float setting, if the float is good, and maybe making sure the needle and seat are clean and functioning?)
3) another item to tackle, have you disabled the EGR and OSAC system on the car? These two items may also contribute to some lack of power...

-D.Idiot

If the carb is a Holley 1920 it may be missing the baffle in the float bowl.

Brian

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63 Plymouth Valiant Wagon

First of all thanks for your help. Just a little thing i know 1973 was the first year for EI but the point is that my car is 100% mexican made so here in mexico EI was an option but my car didnt have that stock so i did it because points are pretty good and realiable but now its very hard to find good points and also EI make the spark hotter and more powerful so why not to change it haahahaha
1.- vaccim leak i need to search for it im not aware of any leak but i will search for any leak in vacuum.
2.-yeah indeed the carb was completly rebuilt like 5-7 months ago and everything was working normal but yeah im thinking the same for the fuel level im gonna check it again to see the level. What is the normal level 2 cm?
3.-well this might not sound right for you but well hahaha my car didnt came with osac or egr. How i know this because the last owner abandoned the car in 1985-90 and it was sitting there until my dad bought the car in 2002 and every single part was working and with the original logo. So im pretty sure here in mexico slant six's didnt came with that kind of sistems

Oh by the way it is the holly 1920. I dont know what or where the baffle should be. Can you help me with that.

The baffle is just a thin sheet of fiber that slides into two grooves in the bowl, it just keeps the fuel from sloshing around as much.

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

Well being that you didn't set your location, the board and myself included would assume a North American car not the other manufacturing areas, so that makes sense.

Float level should be qualified by the book, and hopefully the carb has it's sheet metal baffle in the fuel bowl as previous queried.

-D.Idiot

Take the carb out, open the bowl, check for the baffle (wall of thin metal). I needed to buy a reman carburetor for mine, and it was "tested" but had no baffle!. I took the one from the old carb and installed it in the new one, works great!

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Swap your coil,I heard of a guy with similar probs a and it turned out to be a bad coil.....as he turned the inertia moved the windings around because they had become loose inside the canister and short out,it would also lose power when hot....I know its a long shot but it's an easy job to do and worth a try!

Does any one can show me the carb baffle or where i can buy it because i just check my carb and i dont have that baffle and i cant find another carb with it. I might just make it from thin aluminum.
And i just bought the coil im gonna change the coil also
Wish me luck hahahaha

Good luck. Just to be sure: Does your car has a Holley 1920 carburetor? If so, whenever you open the bowl, you can see the float (with metal arm and nytrofoam body (like styrofoam, but stiffer and black(ish))), and if you check in the walls of the bowl (both in the carburetor half and in the half you removed to open the bowl) the guides/grooves where the baffle plate goes. I would check the links to carburetor maintenance manuals in this forum, I'll try to point you there

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Check here (From the FAQ in the top of the Engine section)

http://u225.torque.net/cars/SL6/docs/Ho ... Manual.pdf

page 15. The baffle is attached to the removable bowl side.

I hope somebody can send you a pic/offer you a baffle, I'll try to see if I have a picture of it

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...