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tire sizes, 75 valiant
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51816		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  75valiant [ Tue Apr 23, 2013 11:45 am ]
Post subject:  tire sizes, 75 valiant
i'm pleased to inform everyone that the 75 is about to rejoin the ranks of the living (the weather created some long pauses, as i am working on it outside). the engine runs, i am ready to re-hang the fuel tank, and barring a major surprise i'll be starting to tool around the neighborhood.

i've got four different tire sizes on five wheels, and they are all old and lousy. my 75 has 14 in. wheels, disc brakes on front. i will be doing a brake inspection first, but it does hold pedal and i drove it a short distance in my yard without incident.

my 75 is a valiant custom, 4 doors /6 torqueflight, and as such it will generally be relegated to "civilian" duty. in other words, there's no point in pouring money in it as it will never be a highly valuable car (like a 340 duster or dart). on the other hand, it only has 63,000 one owner miles on it, i like it, and i'm 52 years old. i want it to handle well and offer a comfortable ride. my inclination is to stick with the 14's, but before i spend much i thought i would seek input. i did search through the threads and saw that some people had upgraded from 13s, one even has 17s, etc. looks aren't that important; solid handling, durability, and economy are.

assuming i stick with 14s (which i am strongly inclined at this point to do), what size is best? likewise, if there is some compelling reason i should replace perfectly serviceable 14 inch steel wheels, what tire should i go with? the door plate recommends 6.95-14 ("minimum", it says).
Author:  emsvitil [ Tue Apr 23, 2013 1:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Are they the 14 x 4.5 or 14 x 5.5 wheels?


If 4.5, you can only get 185 75 14

At 5.5, you can get 185 75 14 or 195 70 14 or 205 70 14

205 would be closest to original diameter
Author:  75valiant [ Tue Apr 23, 2013 1:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
i was afraid a question like that would come up. i don't know, and i'm ashamed to admit i don't know how to find out. is it necessary to measure the wheel with a caliper, or is there an easier way?
Author:  emsvitil [ Tue Apr 23, 2013 1:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Should be stamped on the wheel.

If not, the 5.5 rim will be about 6.5" outside to outside at the flange

4.5 will be 5.5
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Tue Apr 23, 2013 2:04 pm ]
Post subject:  It should...
If they are the stock LBP rims from the late 70's then they are 5.5", you might find the 4.5" on occasion on the SBP rims if you had a drum brake late car.

205-70-14 will handle better on the road, 195-70-14 will steer easier if manual steering in the heavy car.

-D.idiot
Author:  75valiant [ Tue Apr 23, 2013 4:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
no stamping found on rims (checked 3). i do have power steering, and it is a four door car, so i'm betting it's the larger wheel. i will have the guy measure at the tire shop, since i don't have a bare wheel at the moment.

CRAPPY UPDATE: still have a short in the electrical system. don't want to run it to check the thermostat, so for tonight i am done. freeze warning tonight and humidity of 100%. i've waited this long, another day or two won't kill me (even though it might feel like it!)

BETTER UPDATE: i forgot there was an old tire at mom's house. i can mount it until i have a fuller chance to evaluate the braking and suspension systems, as well as input from this website.

i really appreciate the comments, fellows. keep 'em coming. slantsixdan, are you out there? :)
Author:  wjajr [ Tue Apr 23, 2013 6:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would pull all four wheels, rear drums, and front calipers. Look for worn pads & shoes, inspect wheel cylinders and calipers for leaks and stuck pistons, and worn under sized rotors and drums, inspect all hard lines, replace as needed, and replace all three soft flexible lines. If the car has been sitting for a long time I would replace master cylinder with new not rebuilt unit, and flush out system until fluid looks nice and clean. Neglected brake systems are a real safety issue, they look and work OK until that one hard stop and something lets go, or stuck cylinders won’t allow full braking power.

Brake parts are cheap and easy to replace, a front clip ain’t cheap and easy to replace if it can be repaired at all.
Author:  75valiant [ Wed Apr 24, 2013 8:30 am ]
Post subject: 
agreed. that is in fact my next step. that was the first thing i did on my son's 86 f150. a car that can't stop or steer shouldn't be on the road.

i am curious, though, why a rebuilt master cylinder isn't good enough. i've used them in the past with good results.

by the way, i'm mystified as to why there is no stamping on the wheel, other than "LS". could that mean large bolt pattern?
Author:  75valiant [ Fri Apr 26, 2013 4:30 am ]
Post subject: 
i have taken a tire/wheel to the tire shop and learned i do have the 4.5 inch rims. ugh.

so the 185 75 14 is my only safe choice?
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Fri Apr 26, 2013 7:22 am ]
Post subject:  Not good...
Quote:
i am curious, though, why a rebuilt master cylinder isn't good enough. i've used them in the past with good results.
The Reman master cylinders as very hit and miss for this car...you may get lucky and get a good one, you may get one that seemed ok then gets gradually spongy over the next week. I had one that the cap wouldn't seal on (talk about no brakes and fluid drooling down the outside fo the pot).
Luckily they still make brand new ones for a little more money.

-D.Idiot
Author:  WagonsRcool [ Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I had one that the cap wouldn't seal on (talk about no brakes and fluid drooling down the outside fo the pot).
Unfortunately I find that to be very common on the old style rebuilt M/C. They bead-blast the housing which leaves the cap sealing face very rough. Whenever I've had to use one, I clamp it in a vise with it turned on its side & smooth the sealing area with a large file.

@ 75valiant: yep, I wouldn't try to go much bigger than what was reccomended. If you go too wide on such a skinny rim the tire will tend to "roll" or deflect sideways when you turn- which makes the car unstable.
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