![[img]http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab315/doctorinjector/c616fb1a-5339-4a60-9947-51d818fe1996.jpg[/img]](http://s875.photobucket.com/user/doctorinjector/media/c616fb1a-5339-4a60-9947-51d818fe1996.jpg.html){kind=link}
Sam, I saw that bit but it was more than $50 when I saw it, but a great piece to have...care to rent it out sometime?
did you get my PM on the MS board about your MS squirted 6?
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| Modified intake and fuel rail https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51961 |
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| Author: | Doctor Injector [ Sun May 05, 2013 10:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | Modified intake and fuel rail |
Ok I thought I would post this just to show another way to modify four slant six intake for fuel injection. This is a intake from one of my customers 1970 Triumph TR6 2.5L that he is fuel injecting and installing a super charger. He came to me for some fuel injectors that would work for what he was going to do and some ideas on mounting the fuel injector bosses and fuel rail. This is what he came up with and would work great on a slant six intake.[img][img]http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab315/doctorinjector/c616fb1a-5339-4a60-9947-51d818fe1996.jpg[/img][/img] Here is a link to some some more picks at different angles. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 304&type=1 |
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| Author: | Reed [ Sun May 05, 2013 10:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Interesting! What would a setup like that run for the slant six? I like the solution to the fuel rail mounting, but you would have to be dang sure the bungs were welded to the intake properly. |
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| Author: | Doctor Injector [ Sun May 05, 2013 10:56 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Modified intake and fuel rail |
I will ask my customer how much the machine shop charged him to weld it up. He did say that part of the flange near the upper bolt hole had to be cut away so the bosses could be welded to the intake and then material built back up and milled flat. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon May 06, 2013 8:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Modified intake and fuel rail |
Quote: I will ask my customer how much the machine shop charged him to weld it up. He did say that part of the flange near the upper bolt hole had to be cut away so the bosses could be welded to the intake and then material built back up and milled flat.
Hmmm. Sounds pricey Still, looks like an interesting solution to fuel rail mounting. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Mon May 06, 2013 9:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | Yep.. |
Quote: Sounds pricey
Anything that involves welding aluminum correctly (and worse if the castings are pot aluminum/scrapings off the floor)... I would bet he's into the welding and prep at $400-500.-D.Idiot |
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| Author: | pishta [ Sun Aug 18, 2013 5:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Jb weld $6 Ebay bungs in 3/4 drilled manifold holes inline at a 45 degree angle, then get yourself a Stainless Caddy Northstar V8 fuel rail, cut at the first and last 3 injector positions and TIG weld straight together so the middle 3-4 are exactly 2" apart. Everything else will fall into line. The rail was 8 bucks and the injector bungs were 24 for 6 on Ebay. The weld was $30 so the entire thing was $62 and I got the regulator and return line spud with the rail. Those bolt in "free standing" injector sockets are $50 a piece and you need 6! |
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| Author: | Pierre [ Sun Aug 18, 2013 7:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
You want to drill a 3/4" hole at a 45 degree angle? That's not going to be easy.... I'd like to see a drill bit that would work. Hole saw maybe, but that'll hardly be accurate. Maybe an end mill bit. |
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| Author: | pishta [ Mon Aug 19, 2013 8:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
you dont have to be accurate, just close. JB is a wonderful thing, it fills gaps nicely and sets up rock hard. I used an AL intake and drilled the holes at a 90 on my drill press. then I leaned the intake over at a 45 and leaned the drill bit so I got bubble up on the end of my Dewalt drill (handy!) the bit made quick work modding the original hole to a 45 as the AL walls of the intake are quite EZ to machine. Hole saw would be great as would an end mill, but my bench drill press only had about a 12" working height adjustment. I did use a hole saw for my head bungs as it fit in the press. The bungs dont have to be perfect as the O-rings of the injectors allow for some minor set up variances. Looking back, Im glad I had a little wiggle room on the bungs when I JB'd them as it allowed me to align them with the mounted in the rail injectors. Put them on the rail, put the bungs on the injectors and then lower them into the intake holes. JB and then let set. Perfect set up jig. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Tue Aug 20, 2013 7:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I drilled mine with a stepped drill bit custom made by a company in New England. It drills both sizes in one pass. I think the bit cost around $50. I built a wooden jig to hold the manifold in to keep the angle steady while drilling it on the press. I think I drilled a pilot hole first to keep the bigger, stepped bit centered. I used the same bit on stock fuel rail purchased on line with the ends pre drilled for AN fittings. Sam |
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| Author: | pishta [ Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sam, I saw that bit but it was more than $50 when I saw it, but a great piece to have...care to rent it out sometime? did you get my PM on the MS board about your MS squirted 6?
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 6:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Pishta, there is nothing in my inbox from you. I would be happy to lend this drill bit to anyone who wants to use it.Shipping is all I would ask. Sead me an email spowell786@verizon.net Sam |
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| Author: | pishta [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Cool! I am now a member of the "Good Sam club"! |
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| Author: | Doctor Injector [ Sat Dec 20, 2014 9:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | UP date Modified intake and fuel rail |
Here is a link to the pictures from when my customer got it running and was out for a drive. He used a mega squirt system. Yes that is a supper charger on that straight 6. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... ploaded=12 |
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| Author: | pishta [ Mon Dec 22, 2014 9:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Love the use of U-bolts for the rail tie-downs. Looks factory with that Eaton in there! I plan on using MS for mine, although I have a variant from diy-efi.org that I may try once I get the MS working. Very nice. I had a buddy that had a TR-6 that had a electric overdrive switch on the shifter. |
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