I pulled my distributor to change the thick O-ring seal. I noticed oil was leaking around there, and sure enough the O-ring may have been the original, as it was hard as a rock and split in one place. I replaced the O-ring and reinstalled a new distributor (as I had one, I thought this might be a good time) as close to where the body and rotor of the old distributor were before pulling it, and it appeared to be very close to where the old one was in both body and rotor position. But I may be one tooth off, as I'm getting pinging now (which I assume is too advanced ignition timing). I didn't have time to put the timing light to it, and I drove it to work (I'm a bad owner...my Dart probably hates me).

So, I've seen many posts regarding distributor rotation and ignition timing. Is it clockwise to retard and counterclockwise to advance?

I'm 50 miles from home (but do I have my handy distributor wrench with me). I want to make sure I'm going the right direction to retard. Clockwise, correct?

Assuming I'm one tooth off (and too advanced), I may run into the issue of not enough travel in the adjustment slots. Do I pull the dizzy and reinstall by one tooth after turning clockwise or counterclockwise?

Is it OK to drive it home (where my timing light is) with the pinging? I drove it this far...the slant is a sturdy beast, will 50 or 60 miles of pinging be really harmful? I can do experiments in the parking lot with my handy wrench to stop the pinging before driving it home...

Thanks all.

BG

Let's say it ain't good for things...and if your pistons aren't in good shape you can knock a hole in the top then you will have a slant 5 with crank case ventilation. Hopefully the detonation hasn't done some bad things to the electrode and porcelain on your spark plugs.

Rotor motion is clockwise, so yes counter clockwise to advance timing, clockwise to retard...

To Make sure that your marks are lined up correctly, I'd roll the engine over until you get compression #1 and TDC with the distributor cap off and the #1 spark plug out (you may need to do the thumb over the hole method until it is close). If the piston is TDC and your damper mark is OK the rotor should be pointed at the #1 cap tower if not, you need to remove and realign it, or if a little of roll the adjustment in that direction.


Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

Pinging might also be cause by the internals of the "new" distributor being different than the old distributor. Different weight springs, a different advance governor, and a different vacuum advance can can completely change when and how much your timing advances.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks guys, hopefully I haven't hurt anything...

I pulled the plugs, found top of stroke on #1 and the timing mark was nearly perfectly at zero. I'm assuming that means my harmonic balancer hasn't slipped. Pulled and reinstalled the dizzy, cause it was indeed advanced, not at or near #1 tower. I couldn't get it exactly at the number one tower, but it was close. I made sure I had room on the adjustment slots and then bolted it down, reassembled. Fired up and it runs great. Put the timing light to it and its now about 10-12 degrees advanced. Seems like a good spot, as it runs well, lots of power, idles smoothly, no starting issues and the pinging is gone. I have an RV cam in it, I think its 242 duration (not sure what the lift and overlap are). Took for a test drive on the highway, didn't notice the noise I was hearing previously. Hopefully I didn't harm my beloved slant....

I filled it up with 91 octane, and I'll check my mileage, see if that's off in any way. I usually get about 22 mpg, unless I'm running it hard, then I get about 19 mpg...this is with two Weber 2bbls.....slant sixes are wonderful engines. If I nail it from dead stop, it doesn't hesitate, accelerates quickly, and catches second gear with a "chirp" on the tire (single traction, 7 1/4 rearend).

thanks all,

BG

Should be good to go at that point. 242 sounds a little low for an RV cam adv. duration it's probably 252. If all was good to go, you shouldn' t need to run it on 91, you should be able to save a dime a gallon and run it on 89.

-D.Idiot

I'll check the rebuild slip, see what the cam was. It sure runs good.

A 9:1 build with a small RV style cam and proper initial and mechanical advance makes a nice torquey street ride all the way from idle to top end rpm...



try not to ruin the stock rear having too much fun...

-D.Idiot