Slant Six Forum :: I broke it.

Within your budget:

2-1/4" head pipe. Distributor re-curve.

You might be able to squeeze in some compression. That will involve cutting the head or deck for a smaller chamber volume.
Your going to want to push it up to 9-9.5:1 Static.

The 360 will definitely wake it up. Don't know if you can do that within your budget though. Having done some re-power jobs, the cost is rarely as simple as the bolt in and go we often imagine.

You still need to take care of whatever is knocking, should you decide to stick with the slant. If you hydro'd the engine, you may be looking at some pretty serious coin to get it fixed. I wouldn't be surprised if you bent the rod, then the miss-alignment resulted in the bearing, wrist pin, piston going away.

CJ

Author:	blacksmoking [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 6:35 am ]
Post subject:	I broke it.
Back story, bought a 75 dodge w200 crew cab to swap the cab over to a cummins, decided the body was too rough so I figured I'd take the truck through some trails and see how it does. Did pretty good besides getting water in the carb and. killing it in a hole. Got it out started and finished the day. Brought it home went to start it to go back starter was out and when it would spin over no start. New plugs and starter =running better than when I bought it. Ran 30 min or so then knock knock knock. Assuming rod. Will post some pics and a video of the knock later.

Author:	Rug_Trucker [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 8:20 am ]
Post subject:
Had a friend bend 2 rods and his crank on a Toyota 4x4 with water down the intake.

Author:	blacksmoking [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:25 am ]
Post subject:
There were no abnormal sounds that day, I ran it a couple hours after that. It was a week later when it started knocking

Author:	blacksmoking [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:33 am ]
Post subject:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYkmRbV ... ata_player

Author:	ceej [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:36 am ]
Post subject:
Did you change the oil, gear oil and diff oil out after submersion? It's not optional after playing submarine. Rod is most likely. Fix it before the crank is toast, or the rod windows the block. 2Â¢ CJ

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I broke it. https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=52635	Page 1 of 1

Author:	blacksmoking [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:47 am ]
Post subject:
I've not run it until this weekend, I was going to get it ready to go again, but couldn't get it started, then the starter/ plugs came then the knock. I'm not sure whether I'm going to fix it or find something with more power. What could I do for more power cheaply with the slant six?

Author:	blacksmoking [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:32 am ]
Post subject:

Author:	ceej [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 11:52 am ]
Post subject:	Yep, you broke it.
To operate in water of that depth requires a lot of special work. In stock trim, your not going to want to put it deeper than ten or twelve inches, and operate at low speeds. The differentials will still need the hypoid changed after operation in even that shallow a depth. The whole power thing depends on budget. Determining what "Cheaply" means is a bit subjective. I operate in a paradigm where, "under $4k" is a relatively inexpensive build. Power parts aren't as readily available as they once were. These are aging engines that were never mainstream to the performance market. How much do you want to spend on it? And if you want to run in water that deep, you might consider a boat! CJ

Author:	blacksmoking [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 1:34 pm ]
Post subject:
My uncle is well versed in what needs to be done. He said he would help as long as I get my cummins fixed and out of his yard. lol be about a week. But I need to get something to power the 75. I might try to find a 440 and an auto, I have a divorced tcase to use.I was also given a 360 w/ tranny and transfer out of an 85. But it's 250 miles away. I was thinking maybe a couple hundred dollars in performance. Lol

Author:	ceej [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 2:47 pm ]
Post subject:
Within your budget: 2-1/4" head pipe. Distributor re-curve. You might be able to squeeze in some compression. That will involve cutting the head or deck for a smaller chamber volume. Your going to want to push it up to 9-9.5:1 Static. The 360 will definitely wake it up. Don't know if you can do that within your budget though. Having done some re-power jobs, the cost is rarely as simple as the bolt in and go we often imagine. You still need to take care of whatever is knocking, should you decide to stick with the slant. If you hydro'd the engine, you may be looking at some pretty serious coin to get it fixed. I wouldn't be surprised if you bent the rod, then the miss-alignment resulted in the bearing, wrist pin, piston going away. CJ

Author:	blacksmoking [ Sun Jul 07, 2013 5:14 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: Within your budget: 2-1/4" head pipe. Distributor re-curve. You might be able to squeeze in some compression. That will involve cutting the head or deck for a smaller chamber volume. Your going to want to push it up to 9-9.5:1 Static. The 360 will definitely wake it up. Don't know if you can do that within your budget though. Having done some re-power jobs, the cost is rarely as simple as the bolt in and go we often imagine. You still need to take care of whatever is knocking, should you decide to stick with the slant. If you hydro'd the engine, you may be looking at some pretty serious coin to get it fixed. I wouldn't be surprised if you bent the rod, then the miss-alignment resulted in the bearing, wrist pin, piston going away. CJ Yeah, that's what I was wanting to spend on the slant six. I'll probably park it until I can get the 360.

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