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First test drive...
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=52656		 Page 1 of 4
Author:  jhdeval [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:28 am ]
Post subject:  First test drive...
Okay let me explain what happened and see if anyone has any suggestions.

I was able to drive ok when it was cool but it ran a bit rough. As I got further I realized I had zero power and if I hit the accelerator it would stumble. I pulled off to the side, assuming I had been flooding the carb, I pulled the air cleaner and it idled really well. Put it back in gear and same stumbling. After about a quarter mile it died. It would start in the stumble and then die about 30 seconds later. At this time I realized I lost the Carter BBD plate under the air cleaner and above the float bowl. After about an hour I got her started dropped it into automatic first low gear and stumbled home. Any ideas?

I am thinking timing? Maybe the carb? Not sure about the carb though because it idles ok.
Author:  Reed [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:36 am ]
Post subject:  Re: First test drive...
Quote:
At this time I realized I lost the Carter BBD plate under the air cleaner and above the float bowl.
:?: Do you mean the choke plate?

From your description it does sound like a carburetor problem.
Author:  jhdeval [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:41 am ]
Post subject: 
I would think that sounds right reed. It is the plate that hides the accelerator pump and is directly above the float bowls.

The hold down screw is accessible from the top of the carburetor and on some of these plates there are 3 screws although on mine there was just one directly above the gas inlet
Author:  Reed [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 8:52 am ]
Post subject: 
Oh. You are talking about the float bowl cover, not the choke plate. The float bowl cover should be there mainly to keep crud out of the carb, but it won't affect driveability in the way you describe.

Are your metering rods adjusted correctly?
Author:  jhdeval [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:38 am ]
Post subject: 
Good question. When I rebuilt the carb the metering rods did not appear to be bent so I kept them as is. How should the be adjusted?
Author:  Reed [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:46 am ]
Post subject: 
Well, in the reassembly instruction in the factory service manual or carb rebuild kit you should have used when rebuilding the carb, there are instructions on how to set the metering rods. Alternatively, you can go to the articles section on this website and read the "Super Six" article that I wrote about ten years ago. In that article there is a link to a scan of a carb rebuild kit instruction sheet that shows how to adjust the metering rods on a BBD:

Image

Finally, if none of those resources work for you, you can go to the "Carburetor Operation & Repair Manuals" sticky in the Engine "FAQ" post in this area of the board. Click HERE to go there now. Every adjustment and specification you should need are in the link to the BBD materials.
Author:  jhdeval [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:26 am ]
Post subject: 
Definitely feeling like the carb. I adjusted the metering rods and we are running a bit better. I went back and adjusted the pump. Engine is flooded at the moment but before I flooded it I had it set a little "loose" and it felt better.

Thank you Reed with a little more luck I will have the down to a science. lol

As for the missing plate Can I just cut one out of sheet metal?
Author:  Reed [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:37 am ]
Post subject: 
I don't see why a sheet metal plate wouldn't work, so long as it has the necessary clearance for the accelerator pump and metering rods. The correct cover isn't flat but has a bump for the internal bits.
Author:  Otateral [ Mon Jul 08, 2013 11:45 am ]
Post subject: 
Don't think it was mentioned. On my old motor, I had trouble with a bad idle only when the air cleaner was installed. Turned out my air filter was clogged with oil from blowby. Easy thing to check.
Author:  jhdeval [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 2:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
Success, I got her running pretty good but I have found that my "throttle butterfly" is floppy. I do not have the choke thermostat at this time but the vacuum pot is connected. I found that if I held my "butterfly" about 2/3 to 3/4 closed it idled great but it would not stay there on its own. When it is off fast idle the butterfly is fully open. Is this because I don't have the choke thermostat?
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 2:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Yep...
Quote:
Is this because I don't have the choke thermostat?
Yes, as the element heats up the rod pulls on the flap providing constant tension the pulloff is there to help unload it.

-D.Idiot
Author:  jhdeval [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 2:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
So am much more import part then my initial reasoning. I ordered the 1232 from CarbsOnly today. Should fix most of the issue. But she does idle well at the first step.
Author:  Reed [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 3:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
The choke butterfly or the throttle butterfly is floppy? Choke butterfly would be floppy because you have no choke thermostat. Throttle butterfly is floppy if the throttle shaft is worn out and needs to be rebushed.
Author:  jhdeval [ Tue Jul 09, 2013 7:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sorry reed I did mean the throttle butterfly. It is terrible I know what I am looking at but I have a terrible memory for the names of things.
Author:  jhdeval [ Wed Jul 10, 2013 5:09 pm ]
Post subject:  I just don't get it...
Ok so I "thought" I had it running well. I was wrong. I have checked that I set the carburetor correctly. And verified it with the rebuild kit and it all looks good. She seems to idle ok but as soon as I put it in drive it wants to die. I checked the timing again and it does not seem to affect the vacuum gauge. I am posting a video so you can hear how it is running and see the vacuum gauge and I showed the tach because it is fluctuating slightly also. Any suggestions idea or anything. I am a bit stumped at this point.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4VoR7yW-7Q
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