Inquiring about a 72 Dart Swinger Slant Six right now. If I go take a look at there any specific things that I should be looking for? Is a California car, claims no rust. In the photos provided the paint looks dingy and flat, but body looks good. Hoping for any tips from a more seasons dart/slant six owner for important things to check.

I do know it has the 727 in it. Other than that the current owner doesn't seem to know too much about it. Price is VERY nice.

i like to check the quarter panels to make sure they are not repaired or if rusty its original.(might wanna bring a magnet) kick panels, fender between the wheel opening and the door, solidity of the floors, bottoms of the doors, the frame section that the torsion bars go into( make sure its solid), check front and rear frame rails for rot, panel fit( looking for even gaps to see if it has been in an accident), over spray to indicate a repaint after an accident, check mileage against wear on the brake pedal ( if its a 60k mile original car and the pedal is worn completely to the metal of the side next to the gas pedal its probably bogus).

also like to check running gear, what rear does it have (does it clunk badly when going from park to reverse to drive), brake package (drums or disc), tranny(if a manual, does the clutch slip, does it engage smoothly, is it a smooth shift, any noise coming from the tranny while driving/shifting) how does the engine run, does it smoke, shake, knock. what does the oil smell like (gas, burnt oil)

ive never really cared about the interior of my cars much but check to make sure that everything works look at all the gauges and lights to make sure they are doing something, check that the seat moves like it should, check the heater to see if that works and that air is coming out where it is supposed to.

i know im forgetting something, if i remember anything else ill post it.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Thanks for the tips. I'll make a list to take with me if i can ever get the guy to answer the phone.

no problem and good luck. if you do get it post some pictures. post some pics even if you dont.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Shot from craigslist. Listed at $1200. Going Sunday to take a look. Seems like a good deal if it is running okay.[/img]

man, I would jump on that!

Got another shot of the engine bay, still planning on taking a look sunday. Any extra info i can gleam from the photo? Looks like on the left is the electronic ignition if I'm not mistaken, so thats a plus.

they would want $4000 plus for that in Kansas

Had a look today. Will be the proud new owner tonight. I did some cyber sleuthing and found the owner's youtube, car running fine and all that. Saw his username and tracked it to a few forums (not here, so i guess he didn't know the best resource on the net!) asking about swapping or rebuilding. He wanted to use it as a project car, young guy, only 22. Selling it now because he had no money to refurb and has a baby.

The pictures were pretty much taken where the car was sitting. battery was just hooked up and it started right up. He was late to meet and had to find the keys so I know there was no prepping or anything. Thats a great sign. Interior as described was pretty trashed. Most everything worked though, headlights and break lights did not come on. Turn signals did as did normal tail lights. Reverse did. I'm thinking either they are blown or a fuse is blown. Since everything else worked, and he stated they were working 4 months ago which was the last time he drove it I'm not too worried about it.

The part that does have me slightly concerned was the dash. The alternator and oil gauge worked but nothing else. He did have a 2nd gauge cluster to put in, but had not done so yet. I'm assuming swapping it in will make it work.

Looked like the carb might have been leaking a little, not sure though. There was also a spare carb in the trunk, looked spotless and possibly new.

The engine started and idled great, although it sounded like the valve lash needed to be adjusted. He said it drives nice at lower rpms, higher up is where it seems to have problems. Said someone else looked at it and told him it was low compression and that is was more than likely the head gasket is all that is needed to be swapped. I suppose thats a plus since I was thinking I'd need to buy one of those master rebuilt kits (may still do that anyway).

The car had been painted to the black, and it was a cheap job, jams/bay still the original green. That will be a way down the line job. Missing some badges as well, holes for em are there.

All in all I used what I had and sort of twisted his arm a little knowing he needed the money so I knocked him down a bit. $950 cash and he handles to tow to my place. Will sign the title and have it tomorrow. I'm pretty excited!

Price sounded good, and it looks like a solid start.

Wish you were closer I have a perfect backseat and front seat for that car in black that I'd have let you have for a good deal (then you could concentrate on the other stuff inside.



-D.Idiot

Thanks, I'll have to settle for all the fantastic advice I'm sure I'll have to pump you and everyone else for. I've got an understanding of lots, but I'm 25 and have only owned new cars(Honda CRV, SE Challenger, and currently a 2010 Challenger R/T 6 speed) so I've got no hands on work with anything other than spark plugs and changing fluids.

Here is an link to a picasa web album of shots of the car and engine bay. Any direction would be good. specifically it looks like there is a vacuum tube plugged up with a screw. Also some close up of other parts. Any indication as to what has been done under this hood would be fantastic. That is electronic ignition in there, right? I have so much to learn You can either comment here or comment on the pictures them selves.

Now that I've got it I almost feel a little overwhelmed with what to do first. I do have a compression testing kit I'll try out later to verify each cylinder. I've also hear the trick of adding a little oil to then test a 2nd time to see if it is the piston rings or not. How much oil we talking on that?

Anyway here is the album:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1099630427 ... directlink

If you have an oil can, about 2 good squirts should do it.

Looks like someone 'ghetto' rigged an EI module, I would suggest scouting junkyards for the correct 5 pin plug for it. What you have will work for now, but will allow moisture to corrode the socket eventually.

It's also note worthy that it looks like they left one of the ballast resistors and a 'spare' in the original location on the driver's side fire wall for some reason (these could have been used with the 4 pin EI module, but someone must've been a little out of their league here...).

i will also suggest getting an overflow bottle for the car rather than letting the radiator pee glycol all over the driveway and parking lot after summer drives.

the vacuum can bolted to the head no longer serves a purpose and can be eliminated (the wiring can be saved so you can later use it as the hot wire on the aftermarket 2 or 4 barrel electric chokes.

The power steering belt has the serrations to the outside, meaning it's inside out, might be time for a new one.

Looks like you have a stock starter, next upgrade is scoring a starter from a 1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2L V-8 and replacing it.

You also have a drum brake master cylinder, it might be good to pull a front and rear wheel and see if you have 9" or 10" drums and if the rear size matches too.

-D.Idiot

So the vacuum canister there, Was it for the EGR valve?

There is another connection I'm curious about. There is a vacuum connection from the carb to inside the air cleaner. What is the purpose of this connection? If needed I can get a picture.

It was probably the reservoir for emissions equipement.
A pic would be great, it's probably the thermactor sensor (looks like a half dollar sized item inside the air cleaner with a little tube sticking up.

Thermactor sensor seems to be spot on. Is this something I need? Is it doing anything?