Hello all,
I just bought a 1980 Volare with a Super Six
It was owned by an older gent.
Car sat for a long time and when it was driven it was a grocery getter.
Fifty four thousand and change on the five digit clock
Judging by the pedals I don't believe it's gone around.
Did a tune up and in the process found that the engine was running with the wrong firing order for who knows how long.
It's running way better now but still has a stutter.
I'm taking it out for a nice long highway run this weekend to blow the crap out of it.
A friend suggested putting MMO in it first.
I'm generally leery of additives and figured you guys were the one's to ask.

Do I want to do this?
Or is there something else.
I've been driving a Caravelle for about six years with a Super Six but that one runs beautifully....this is my first round at blowing crap out of one.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

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1978 Plymouth Caravelle 2 Door Boat Tail 225 Super Six
1987 Chrysler 5th ave. 318 (Daily Driver)
1980 Plymouth Volare 2 Door 225 Super Six

i use mmo for freeing up stuck/seized engines works like a charm. i havent used it for much more than that. as for cleaning out an engine i like sea foam. i dont ad it to the gas though. i use a vacume port and a hose and suck it straight out of the can with the motor warmed up running at a fast idle so it doesnt stall. the slower it takes it the better. after that take it for a ride and flog it to clear it out. its gonna smoke like an sob for a while but once that clears up they usually run like a top. but that is just me.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Here's my experience in trying to clean out rings to reduce oil consumption.

I came to own a 1997 Neon with 152k miles on the clock; when I first got it the car used a quart of oil every 300 miles. It was pretty obvious that oil changes had been done with cheap products and infrequently. I tried Sea Foam in the combustion chamber which didn't seem to do much. I put Rislone in the crankcase which appeared to help a little. I finally gave up on corrective chemicals and ran 5W-40 Delo or Mobile 1 turbo-diesel truck synthetic oil. This slowly brought the oil consumption down to one quart of oil every 1400 miles instead of 300. At that consumption rate I started spinning on a new filter every 5000 miles and topping of the oil level instead of draining the oil every 5k miles. I gave the car to my step-dad with 186k miles on the odometer and last I knew it was running great. Hopefully he has kept up with the good oil and not gone to the cheap 10W-40 sh*t he usually buys.

Marvel Mystery Oil will clean out loose junk. If I were in your position I would pull the valve cover and see how badly the engine is loaded with said junk. If there is a lot of crud I would put nothing in the crankcase except good oil unless you are ready to do a serious engine flush as SlantSixDan has outlined. Use a good oil filter and one of the tall ones, not the short one specified for your car. Ask for a filter for a 1968 Valiant. Wix/Napa Gold is a good filter choice. The Walmart house brand filter (SuperTech) is a poor choice. I cut open a Wix and a SuperTech for the same Subaru application (the filter from my car and from Mom's) and the Wix filter quality is obviously superior.

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Joshua

The tall one is for a big block and works great on the slant six with a stand pipe, Wix 51515 is the part number.

-D.Idiot

If your engine has a lot of miles like mine (over 260,000) and 10 years sitting in a barn under a pile of hay with out a distributor, fuel pump and carb) .....use the WIX 1806. It has a built in stand pipe. Why pay that much? Well, so you don't have dry starts listening to the rods rattle the first second or two on a cold start.......

The 1806 WIX filter and some synthetic oil will flush out the rings to where they will start sealing again and the oil consumption will go down. Synthetic oil is a gentle cleaner, but takes a little longer verses a flush. I have been experimenting with Mobile 1, 15-50w which has high levels of zinc. It seems to be doing a pretty good job. Like Josh says, spin on a new filter and top it off till the engine cleans up. The filters will be heavy and full of junk!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

First of all....
Thanks so much for the replies guys.
It's great to find a place with others who not only run slants
But love them like I do....

I'm basically a weekend mechanic and am learning as I go.
I'm not even close to the level that a lot of you guys are so I hope you can be patient with a newbie.....a 49 year old newbie to boot.

So..from what I gather MMO does indeed work.
Now the thing with the Volare is..it has been driven sporadically over the past few years
As I said more or less a grocery getter.
I'm thinking the crap that's built up might be due to the fact that the poor thing was running with the wrong firing order for who knows how long.

It's running pretty well now but it does have a but of a stutter.
I was thinking about the MMO just as a final "blow the leftover crap out of it".
Does that sound reasonable or do you think it needs more than that?

In regards to the filter...I use Mopar 151's or the Mopar version of a PH 43
I read on allpar (or somewhere) that the tall one's can oil starve the engine on startup.
Mind you from what you guys are saying that isn't the case with the Wix.

Should I just stay with the 151's?

And last but no doubt not least....
I also heard (hearsay can be misleading) that ruining synthetic then going back to conventional is a no no...is that true?

The bottom line is...
I think I'm in the home stretch as far as bringing the old girl back from the dead
I feel it just needs a good blowing out....but again...I'm no expert.
I was thinking MMO and a really good highway rip would do the trick.
Does that sound reasonable?

Sorry about all the potentially stupid questions guys...newbie in training.
Your help is immensely appreciated.

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1978 Plymouth Caravelle 2 Door Boat Tail 225 Super Six
1987 Chrysler 5th ave. 318 (Daily Driver)
1980 Plymouth Volare 2 Door 225 Super Six

A couple years ago, I traded work for a '95 Chrysler Concorde 3.3 that smoked and had bad lifter clatter. He'd owned the car for a year, and it had always had motor clatter and run poorly.

I dumped a pint of MMO in the motor while it was running and a pint in the gas tank, and in 15 minutes the motor stopped the clatter. By 50 miles it stopped smoking (except when stone cold), and ran just fine.

At 200 miles, 2 quarts of oil was gone, and it got changed. After that, it ran fine, was always quiet (even after sitting for weeks).

The stuff really does work, just make sure you're doing the 'work' you want done If your motor is really badly gunked up, dumping MMO in it will start cleaning all that gunk off the metal and putting it in your oil and filter.

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'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.

As far as I can tell, the story about not being able to switch back once you run synthetic is nothing but a myth. Supposedly, early synthetics were not fully compatible with regular oil, but that is no longer the case.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

That's allpar, and that also is probably for an old engine without a standpipe installed on the oil pump flange causing it to drain back (and probably some loose clearance issue with the oil pups rotors allowing it to drain after time). To alleviate that you use Wix 1806 as it has an antidrain back valve internal to the filter. I have not had a lack of oil on startup with the 51515 tall filter (although install standpipes on the pumps on all my new builds).

-D.Idiot

What I did with this 73 Wagon that I own is I took and added a quart of tranny fluid to the oil and drove it for a week. Tranny fluid will clean out the varnish. This car sat for over 30 years. Before I did this it smoked during idle and when I stepped on the throttle. The motor stopped smoking after three days of driving. I changed the oil yesterday and I noticed that it doesn't smoke anymore. I also added a bottle of ZDDP to enhance the zinc content of the oil.

back in the day taxi cab's did this.

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

Yes, tranny fluid does.....but I only use it in the worst junkyard motors...... hoping the the pickup screen doesn't get clogged.....Rislone and MMO is a little gentler, synthetic is gentler yet...so if you have the time to do a gradual flush.....there are three options verses the SL6Dan Super Flush.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I've heard that GM Top Engine Cleaner works well on sludged late model motors. Run the motor to warm up, then shut it down. Remove spark plugs and rotate cylinders so the pistons aren't at TDC. Pour a little cleaner in each cylinder. Wait awhile, an hour or two. Repeat. Leave set overnight and drain and replace the motor oil. This will free sticking rings and soften varnish in the grooves. Sticking rings and excess oil consumption was a big problem on Toyota motors that are driven on short trips and don't get frequent oil changes. This is done as a last resort to keep from rebuilding, often works wonders on a granny motor.

Using tranny fluid will not clog the oil pickup. I used it on an engine with 128k miles on it that NEVER had the oil changed(talk about gunked up!) and it did not plug the pickup, and cleaned everything out without harm. Oil pressure never dropped, reduced oil consumption 25%. Yes in solubles did fill the filter but that is what the filter is for. If there is only a moderate amount of gunk, or just issues from sitting too long, run 20% dexron and a new filter for about 30 minutes of gentle highway driving then do an oil change. More severe gunk may take several treatments. PM me if you have any questions about my experience.

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Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car

Just to be clear, does the WIX 1806 work if I have a standpipe on my pump already or should I remove the standpipe?

Thanks,

BG