I just put a NOS Holley 1945 Economaster carb in my van ('77 Tradesman w/ 3 speed manual). I installed a brass float and carefully set everything to specs. Good news is that it idles great w/ 20 in of vacuum.
Bad news is that the small flat spot I had during acceleration is now huge… So I tested the vacuum advance pod with a pump and it doesn't hold anything. Guess I found the culprit.

1. What replacement can would you guys recommend for a van, mpg wise (80% city driving, no towing, occasional hauling, conservative driving, cruising around 2,600 RPM and not going over 3,200 RPM)
I'm thinking about a VC-185: 9" / 7° - 10° @ 15.5" (NAPA VC-3030) or VC-184: 7" / 7° - 10.5° @ 11.5" (NAPA VC-3029)

2. I will also do a distributor recurve soon (already have bigslant6fan's spring kit); just need a spare one. So, I'll take any recommendation on how to achieve best drivability and economy

3. Probably a stupid question but do you I absolutely need to remove the distributor to change the vacuum advance pod.

Since the previous owner had the same hesitation issues and moderate fuel consumption, I'm thinking that vacuum advance had been gone for a long time…
Just curious, but could an overly rich fuel mixture could have masked the problem? That might explain the wrong, incomplete and messed up carb w/ way too rich main jet that was in the van…
Still, I am baffled that the certified mechanic I paid to do a complete tune-up of the van when I bought it (and who pretended to know well slant sixes) did not address the issue correctly (nor did the valve lash adjustment)

Thanks.

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"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

Yes, you have to remove it......
You should clean out the old grease too, that makes it sticky causing dead spots. Lube the shaft and pivots on the weights.

The VC-185 is the one I would use. I had a 74 Tradesman and it would get 16+ mpg with the the VC-185.

VC-184: 7" / 7° @ 11.5" - 10.5° 8.5X stamped on arm +17 degrees

VC-185: 9" / 7° @ 15.5" - 10°, 8.5X stamped on arm +17 degrees

VC-208: 6" / 10° @ 9" - 11" - 12°, 11X stamped on arm +22 degrees

I run the VC-208 in my 74 Dart Swinger, and on my 72 Imperial with a 440 and 69 Chrysler 300 with a 440. The Dart gets 25+ MPG on trips with a 2.76 rear, the 69 300 gets 21 mpg on trips with a 2.76 rear and the 72 Imperial (very heavy with a 3.23 ratio) gets 16+ mpg on trips. I used to run the VC-185 on everything. The VC-208 helps on mileage.

On the recurve it depends.....what governor you have in your distributor as to what springs to use. I like running 10 degrees initial and 20 degrees mechanical and let the pod add the rest.
Do you know your rear end ratio? You don't want the curve to fast if your running a 2.76 rear.......in a van it would ping with a fast curve. If you have a 4.10 rear a faster curve is fine. I have ran both set ups.

Let us know what governor you have....and your rear end ratio.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Because most of these numbers are now moot because SMP quality control is lacking. I would save a couple $$$ and instead of the VC-185, I would use a VC-239 (the new ones are no longer 11x super six cans, they are now 8.5x cans like the VC-184/185...and they are a little more conservative which makes for a good all around can even with adjustments for the heavy vehicle). Use your allen wrench and turn clockwise until seated, then turn out about 3 full turns and start there.
With the Napa part numbers noted, they are probably a Wells vacc. can that has been repackaged (will have an ink stamp on the back of the can AH-6 for VC-185, AH-11 VC-239).

FYI, New VC-208's are all over the board as well, I have one that just weighed in at full engagement at 15 distributor degrees (30 crank/timing degrees) at 12" of vacc at 3 turns out from full seated. Literally I've had to test each one as i install them and dial them in to see if they will do what they are spec'd at.

-D.Idiot

Thanks

I'll call the local NAPA store tomorrow to see what they may or may not have in stock.
(I'm trying to get the van moving ASAP since it's currently occupying half of a friend backyard).
What kind of cleaning fluid and lube do you use?
I guess I still have a little homework to do to fully understand how that works
Rear end is 3.55 (would love a 4.10 but I'll have to switch to 4-speed OD then)
or SMP sold under the Echlin brand. I didn't find the NAPA interchange number for the VC-239 yet.



Oh, and I have an amusing question for you guys:

Got that set of vintage "toy" testing tools for 5 bucks, it's missing the instructions and might work accurately… or not!
I figured out that the dwell/tach had to be plugged on the coil, but I'm not sure about the timing light…
Sticker says "switch for remote starter only", any idea on how that thing work?

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"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

If not using a parts cleaner, a can of Brakeclean will do the job and some rags. You might also need a metal bristle "tooth brush" if it's particularly built up or petrified. Use a synthetic grease in the following areas: washer under the mainshaft plate as it rests on the bushing in the body, lube the areas on the weights that move over the mainshaft plate and the governor, lube the shaft that the governor rotates on, lube the bottom if the pickup plate where it rests on the 3 posts of the mounting plate, I also lube the vacc.adv. arm before the post as it may contact the pickup plate as it moves when activated.
That's not too bad for the heavy vehicle to weight ratio, once you get it open and see what the governor is, then you can make a determination per Ted on what to do. Most of the 70's trucks and vans got a 13R governor, but have stiffer springs so they don't wind out 100% and advance slowly so as to not over advance since the small engine is trying to move a brick (also typically in manual transmission cars mopar used a slightly faster advance because the manual transmission doesn't have the slippage that the auto transmission does, FYI).
Napa list it as VC-3034 (if ordered at Autozone the Wells number is also VC3034- sadly these cans are made by one manufacturer and repackaged by which ever company has the order for them- Wells, SMP, Echlin, etc...so you aren't really getting an SMP can, just paying the price for the red and white box )

The interchange for this can is for the 1978 Dodge Aspen 225-2v...

FYI.

One other thing to note that may not be in the spring kit: you can get faster advance or delay the advance by adjusting the posts the springs attach to on the mainshaft plate, it will require am 11/32" wrench to adjust. If the post is moved inward toward the center you will get a slightly faster advance initially, if at farthest away from the center you will get a slow initial advance, and if a stiff spring (like the stock looped spring) it may also limit the amount of advance you can use (i.e. you may not see the full advance the governor can give in your useable rpm)


Good Luck.

-D.Idiot

Wow!
Thanks so much. I will keep you posted on the progress

_________________
"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

Quick status report:

Won't have the vacuum advance can until 3-4 days, none of of the NAPA warehouses in Canada had one in stock

Distributor looks in overall good shape...
but, there's some shiny deposits that looks like copper in it, wire sheath is badly melted,
and one of the vacuum advance screw head is messed up (Should I take a chance and re-slot it w/ a dremel?)



Distributor tag number is 3874598, so according to this post I guess it has the 13R governor.

When putting the engine at TDC to remove the distributor, I played a bit with the crankshaft and measured almost 8 degrees on the timing tab, before the distributor moved in a direction or another.
I guess it means I also need a new timing chain

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"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

In case i find some time to hit the junkyard this week, what kind of cars / year range should I look for spare distributor parts that'll fit (wire, screws, springs, etc.)

Thanks

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"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

Top priority is to 1977-1980 slant six cars (3874876 super six distributor- best core to use-short slot 9R governor).

Most of the late trucks are ESC and have no advance mechanisms, so look but expect that the core is not something you would use at this time.

Next ones are the 1976 cars 3874598 (this should come with an 11 governor not 13) and 3874714 (should come with a 9L governor) are both good cores.

If...you somehow find a duster or dart sport and it is sporting a 3874795, I would be interested in it (or someone else may want it for their 1976 project).

1973-1975 cores are 15L long slots and not as desired...

That being said...we are now in a realm where most vehicle in yards are most possibly equipped with a remanufactured distributor instead of a stock one....If that is the case you will have to pull the reluctor and top plate out to inspect the governor to see what is really in there (I've been doing my craft so long, I can roll the slot to the 'window' in the plate and determine if it's a good core or a 1973-1975 long slot).

Yep, time to replace the chain as well.

-D.Idiot

Looking at all my options, do you think the stock curve on a NOS 3874714 (or 3874082) distributor from Old Car Parts Northwest could work well with my van, or will it need tweaking anyway?

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"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

3874714 is a good all around EI distributor from 1976 and will do fine in a van/truck or other vehicle

3874082 is from 1975 (I have 2 of these on my bench at the moment) and are a 15L long slot distributor and not as desired as the 3874714.

FYI.

-D.Idiot

Finally got that screw off. R13 governor and the springs looks like this:

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"Hey, I like that paint job you got. What they call that--sorta a cross between Piss Yellow and Puke Green, ain't it?" -- Bob Falfa

That thing needs to be disassembled and treated to a 48 hour soak in a bucket of "dip" then scrubbed out. (You have to remove the gear anyway to pull the shaft so 1) you can check the shaft and bushings for wear, 2) get at the adjusters on the bottom to move the outer posts for tuning the advance).

Typically on a daily driver I replace the spring on the right with one that is a little lighter, and if it comes on a little slowly, or limits too much, I adjust the post on the far left of the picture so it is closer to the direction of the post on the weight...that will allow the lighter spring to moderate the low-med. rpm advance, then when the loop on the left spring catches it's post finally it will slow down the last few degrees of advance and/or can also limit how much final advance will occur (depends on post position and spring resistance).

-D.Idiot

Bit off topic but does anyone know if bigslant6fan is still selling his spring kits?
I have emailed him but i'm guessing he is a busy man.
If he isn't selling them anymore does anyone know where to get a recurve spring kit ?
I have an electronic distributor from Old Car Parts in Washington serial number 3874714
Cheers,
Greg

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

Hi bucket 636 , I also bought a NOS dissy from the same supplier,I was sent the "long slot" governor model....the lube was veeeery old and it was stiff to rotate,I ended up stripping it down to clean the old oil out and soak/relube the oil lite bushes,I also welded the advance slots up as per the article here.As for springs,I used an old Mallory spring kit with assorted springs to get it just right,works very well ! The advance mechanism was also very stiff with old lube,as Duster Idiot said its worth lubing up eveything in that area as well, reluctor gap was OK,but on the large side of limits....There has been another guy that ran a NOS dissy as is and stripped the gear,possibly due to the lack of fresh lube,just thought it was worth a mention. Cheers, Steve