My engine still makes the noise I told you guys about. It only does it when warm. It matches the rocker arms moving up and down on top of the head. It has not gotten worse, but has not gotten better. It never happens until the temp gauge is off the C and up to the first mark on the bracket on the gauge. Bent puhrod? one rocker not adjusted?

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

i'd suggest adjusting the valve lash. do it hot, and do it with the car running. check to make sure all the push rods and spinning and while you're in there make sure they're straight. before you touch anything, with the valve cover off, using a hose to listen to see which rocker is making noise, just be careful, nobody like heater hose in jammed into their ear. Since this only happens with the car hot, i'm betting on the valve lash being off.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

OK, as the boy wonder says ,valve lash first.
If you find one or two adjusters are at their limit suspect a worn cam and lifters on those cam lobes. I had a similar problem where a noise only occurred after warm up, a metallic clunk clunk at idle only.
Turned out to be a worn cam lobe and lifter .
dont forget to check those flex plate bolts.
do the rod knock test I described in the post from the other week.
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... sc&start=0
A mechanics stethescope is a cheap handy tool.
listen for lifter noise at the side of the block about level with the fuel pump bracket.
Also check to see if the push rods are all spinning. if one is not that means the lifter is not spinning in its bore ,this will cause the lifter/cam lobe to wear badly.
good luck ,hopefully its just an adjustment.
Brendan.

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1963 AP5 Valiant 225 PB 904 Stock except extractors & 2 1/4 inch exhaust.


1962 S series valiant 225 PB auto. factory every thing. Full restoration job.
Currently on hold till AP5 is on the road.

Sorry if I bring this up. I am not trying to beat a dead horse. I just have a tight schedule and barely have time to brush my teeth sometimes.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

lol, I meant I thought you beat the problem,not beat the dead horse,

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1963 AP5 Valiant 225 PB 904 Stock except extractors & 2 1/4 inch exhaust.


1962 S series valiant 225 PB auto. factory every thing. Full restoration job.
Currently on hold till AP5 is on the road.

It only takes about 15 minutes to go through and check them hot. I go about 5 minutes per round if your a perfectionist....and recheck two more times, 3 rounds times 5 min equals 15 minutes. Pulling the cover and replacing it takes 3 minutes if you used a rubber or the pure silicone red valve cover gasket and glued it to the valve cover. I would lash it a .012 and .022.

Then you can see if all the push rods are spinning or if any are bent. Get used to checking the lash every year.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

http://s303.photobucket.com/user/bttfma ... 3.mp4.html

What about 7 seconds into this video? Sounds like something bouncing around inside. This propped up a few months ago, and went away. And then suddenly it appeared again. Any clues out there?

Tough to say in the video since the pickup is so generalized, I've heard that sound from a failing water pump, to the flap in the stock exhaust manifold not being held by the spring and being buffetted around. If you use a mechanics stethoscope and hear it in a specific cylinder, you may be taking the head off and looking for something that is too big to get stuffed out the exhaust valve and if it's a nut or ball bearing it's doing wonders for your piston...

-D.Idiot

I removed all the spark plugs, and they are fine, so I don't believe anything is floating on top the cylinder. Been there before, and found a screw was taking out my spark plugs. I got under the car this morning, and hear the noise coming from the general area of the 4, 5, or 6 cylinder, at head level. Nothing near the water pump.

Oh yeah, running headers, not the flap.

I'll make a video right now, but I have no idea how long it will take to upload since I have not used all the features on my new computer.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

63dartdude,

Sounds like a nut or keeper bouncing around inside the valve spring. Hopefully, there is nothing broken and sucked into a cylinder. No small screws missing from the butterfly of the carb?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Plan to take off the head soon. Have examined the springs, and all looks okay, but will double and triple check that. The rocker arms are moving like they should. Thanks.

It's so weird, I started up the car this afternoon and the thing quit making the noise all of a sudden, like nothing was every wrong...

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

If you talk softly to the SL6 while stroking the valve cover gently, it somtimes do what you ask for...

Olaf

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Aspenized