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idiot light on
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=52882
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Author:  75valiant [ Mon Jul 29, 2013 1:28 pm ]
Post subject:  idiot light on

my engine purrs like a kitten, but the idiot light (oil) started coming on after driving to Tulsa on route 66 on a very hot day. dipstick good, no knocking. i'm thinking that maybe I've knocked some gunk loose, seeing as the car sat for years. she probably used Pennzoil, with my luck.

suggestions? (by the way, the pressure switch won't come out even with a specialty socket, so i'm probably going to destroy the switch during removal... so i'm waiting to pull it until I get my hands on one).

Author:  Danarchy [ Mon Jul 29, 2013 1:39 pm ]
Post subject: 

be careful not to break the pressure switch off at the block! it really sucks with the engine out of the car!
I can't even imagine what a PITA it would be in the car!

Author:  Doc [ Mon Jul 29, 2013 1:46 pm ]
Post subject: 

Change the oil filter ASAP and see if that helps.
DD

Author:  Junior [ Tue Jul 30, 2013 6:06 pm ]
Post subject: 

make sure the insulation on the wire going to the sender is good. i had this problem a while back without the light even hooked up. turned out the wire was grounding out.

Author:  DusterIdiot [ Tue Jul 30, 2013 6:52 pm ]
Post subject:  And...

Quote:
Change the oil filter ASAP and see if that helps.
And don't use a Fram, use a Wix or Napa filter.


:wink:

Author:  75valiant [ Wed Jul 31, 2013 1:26 pm ]
Post subject: 

glad I waited. going to pick up the switch now, will grab a filter and try it first. yes, it's a wix. this oil is fresh, too.

seems like I remember reading a post on here about "flushing" engines that have sat for a long time. marvel mystery oil, tranny fluid, and other treatments (like synthetic) were discussed.

Author:  75valiant [ Mon Aug 05, 2013 6:36 pm ]
Post subject: 

just wanted to give a quick update and a thank you. the switch came in, and i grabbed a new filter while i was there. a day or two later, i finally got around to changing the filter and.... THAT WAS IT! thanks so much for the good tip!

i've put about 600 miles on this car since bringing it back to life, and i think that trip to tulsa on a hot day broke some trash loose. i will keep a spare quart and filter in the car in case it happens again. i'm keeping the new switch, if i ever have reason to pull the engine i will have it on hand and change it at that time, just for general principles (seeing as how it is STUCK in there!).

oh, forgot to mention, i just got my new silicone valve cover gasket in the mail today. the engine had used half a quart in 600 miles with no smoke at all, so i'm thinking the culprit is the leaky valve cover gasket. this will also be a good time to adjust the valves.

Author:  75valiant [ Mon Aug 26, 2013 5:53 pm ]
Post subject:  idiot light on---AGAIN

since the last post...

filter change did the trick for about 500 miles. then it happened again. i changed the filter, topped off the oil, got about 200 miles.

i then put in half a quart of ATF (cause that's all i could fit), let it run about 25 minutes in the driveway, changed oil and filter.

this time it lasted about a day. changed the filter again, and no go. the light would not go off, but the engine is still not making any clattering sounds. for obvious reasons, i'm not going to drive it.

let it sit for a week (busy), and started it tonight for grins. NO LIGHT at startup. after about a minute, back it comes on.

i'm quite convinced there is debris clogging the pickup screen, especially after what i saw when i changed the oil. on the other hand, i'm not into unlimited oil changes in the hope that this will someday stop.

my recollection is that it is supposed to be impossible to pull the pan without pulling the engine. is this correct? would it be possible to somehow remedy this problem in other ways? i've had people tell me to repeat the tranny fluid trick, some say to use diesel, and i am frankly stumped. this oil is still clean and full.

ready to pull my hair out. i've got this thing so close to serious road trip ready, and now this...

Author:  SlantSteve [ Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:18 pm ]
Post subject: 

I've had faulty idiot light switches,perhaps put a gauge on there to see exactly what it's up to.the oil relief valve could also have crap under it ? Good luck!

Author:  75valiant [ Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:31 pm ]
Post subject: 

where is the oil relief valve? is it a reed valve on the pump (like a ford 302)? is it possible to pull the oil pump and blow out the screen with air? most importantly, how do i break up clogs of goo to get past the drain hole?

i'm pretty certain it's not the pressure switch. i have a new one to install, but the old one is stuck in there pretty good, too.

Author:  Louise76 [ Mon Aug 26, 2013 6:41 pm ]
Post subject: 

Based on "seen it before", I'm going with the pressure switch leaking internally, acting like low oil pressure, especially when warmed up. But that is troubleshooting by guess. I'll shut up and watch & learn. P

Author:  emsvitil [ Mon Aug 26, 2013 8:12 pm ]
Post subject: 

Quote:
where is the oil relief valve? is it a reed valve on the pump (like a ford 302)? is it possible to pull the oil pump and blow out the screen with air? most importantly, how do i break up clogs of goo to get past the drain hole?

i'm pretty certain it's not the pressure switch. i have a new one to install, but the old one is stuck in there pretty good, too.

Pressure relief valve is on oil pump. They are known to get stuck open.

Search for it on site, there's instructions on how to clean it up..

Author:  75valiant [ Tue Aug 27, 2013 2:54 pm ]
Post subject: 

well, i got brave and did both. thank you very much for the info on the oil relief valve threads, i'm thinking there should be a sticky (if there's not one already and i missed it!).

with the new pressure switch and the oil relief valve now have been properly serviced, i am glad to say that the oil light is again OFF.

if i had access to a pressure gauge, i would have done it, but i didn't.

while i was at it, i finally solved the pesky missing fast idle screw problem, and now the car starts up GREAT at any time! the accelerator pump wasn't working because the rod was WAY out of adjustment. i also set the timing, and for good measure fixed the door latch which had been hanging up badly. the grumbler is now better than ever, with brand new rubber on five rims!

(i would never have bought five new tires until i was certain it was ready as a daily driver, because i'm such a "cheap date." this oil light problem happened ON THE WAY HOME from the tire shop!)

Author:  70valiant [ Wed Aug 28, 2013 1:53 pm ]
Post subject: 

Did you try a thicker oil?

Author:  75valiant [ Wed Aug 28, 2013 3:23 pm ]
Post subject: 

right now i'm staying with the sae 30. that's what the factory recommended (although a lower grade of it back in the 70's), and it gets hot in oklahoma in the summertime. 40 weight is very hard to come by anymore, although you can get 20w-50. actually, they recommended a variety of weights, even 10W-30.

it sure was nice this morning when i went out and it started right up! no more messing with the choke plate. the oil light performed like it is supposed to and the car runs great.

i'm going to keep my eyes out for an oil pressure gauge, because i do think that's a good diagnostic tool to have. hopefully i won't have any major chunks of gunk break loose, and the detergents in the motor oil will gently clean my engine. it'll be interesting to see what i find when i pull the valve cover to adjust the valves. i'll be doing it soon, because i haven't done it yet and because the gasket is leaky. i bought a new silicone gasket and am interested to see how it performs.

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