I just had a stroke of luck. I was pulling out of the gas station and in front of me was a guy with a trailer load of cast iron torque converters. I followed him to the scrap yard and asked if he had one for a 904 transmission and low and behold he told me he did. We found two 11" torque converters. I bought one for 20 bucks.

I am pretty sure it will physically fit in the transmission but what else do I need? It looks like I might need a new flex plate. I do not know anything about what or when this was pulled but he did indicate they were all rebuilt at some point in the past.

_________________
2006 Jeep Commander
2013 Chrysler 200

1964 Valiant 4 Door
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
1967 Chevy Camaro

It was junked???

A blown engine will bolt right in the engine compartment as well.

Aside from the wiseass remarks, what its condition, stall rpm, and engine was it installed behind; pre 1968, post 1968, spline count etc.

I would purchase a new unit built for your engine build and drive train specs.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The guy was junking them but he claims all of them were rebuilt. It does look good and there is clean oil in it.

It does look good but I have no other information. It appears to be a 26 spline and from what I can tell it is likely a stock converter which would mean it probably came off a 318-360 but that is a logical guess. I tried searching the markings but they returned nothing. I can not find a mopar number or mopar stamp anywhere.

_________________
2006 Jeep Commander
2013 Chrysler 200

1964 Valiant 4 Door
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
1967 Chevy Camaro

Those engines have different converter balance requirements depending on year, and won’t be compatible behind a slant unless rebalanced. Slants are internally balanced, V8 generally are externally balanced. A stock V8 converter will have a lower stall rpm behind a slant just because a slant makes less torque than an 8.
"Rebuilt" is a fly in the ointment, they could be rebuilt to stock or any other spec, so it is a grab bag deal. I have had to remove my transmission several times, and can tell you that it is not on the top 100 favorite projects list, so getting the converter right the first time is a top priority in my book.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

If you need a stock converter, many of us have spares. 11" will not stall any higher than stock (1600-1800 RPM). Yes, beware of balance issues. Probably can tell by weights on the outside?

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

No weights on the outside. The whole thing looks good but I am pretty sure I need a higher stall. The reason I say this is because when I accelerate my tach almost immediately is at 2000RPM with the stock stall that means I am outside of it before I even come off the line.

I am going to test one other thing I found which stated to get an idea of your stall sit on the brake then slowly accelerate when the tires start to spin this will be close to your stall.

Anybody have or can recommend a converter with a stall between 1800-2500?

_________________
2006 Jeep Commander
2013 Chrysler 200

1964 Valiant 4 Door
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
1967 Chevy Camaro

You are chasing your tail with this. If you have a non-stock engine the best advice I can give you is to call a converter company, and give them your build specs; cam numbers, torque curve, rear-end gear, tire size etc. They can recommend and build a converter that will fit your intended use of car that will return decent fuel economy on the street, and decent performance at the track. Keep in mind the more you spend the more efficient the converter will be.

Yes, stall speed can be approximated by power braking, and following tachometer until it steadies and starts to turn wheels… But, most torque converters will stall (flash) above that approximant rpm when starting from idle going to WOT with brakes off.

Also keep in mind a sloppy higher rpm than needed converter will generate excess transmission eating heat, while cutting fuel mileage and performance because it never stalls up under normal driving conditions. A converter too tight for a camed up engine (stall rpm too low for idle speed) will turn your car into a “chomping at the bit to goâ€￾ PIA at wants to turn the rear wheels at every stop encountered making heat while out for a drive; in other words power braking at every light, and stop sign.

Just trying to help...

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

wjajr You are absolutely right. I am having a hell of a time getting the car to settle down. My idle adjustment sits at about 800 or so on the high idle but I have to sit on the brake hard because the car wants to go. Just idling I am running at nearly 15-20 mph.

I do need to adjust the exhaust valves but the car does not idle well below 750-800 rpm.

I am not running a stock engine. I have fairly aggressive cam, larger valves, I have ported and polished the intake and exhaust, 2 barrel BBD, 2.5" exhaust. I can tell the car wants to go but there is something. The only drive train part I can think of is my torque converter. My rearend is a 3.2? stock (can't remember if its 3.29 or 3.23) so it should be good for the street.

_________________
2006 Jeep Commander
2013 Chrysler 200

1964 Valiant 4 Door
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
1967 Chevy Camaro

My converter and unknown cam saga:

My car was built around 1992 to drag race with big cam modified head, headers etc. When I purchased it in 2008 it had been futzed with and cobbled back together after a string of different owners; none of which had a clue how to make a slant go.

I knew there was a problem after looking under the rear quarters behind the wheel and found a generous deposit of rubber on trunk floor from burnouts. This car had all it could do to spin tires on ice, and was slow as hell; a far cry from a tire roasting machine it once was…
Enter slantsix dot org into my life, and after about a year with the help of the gang here I started to get a handle on the drive train. The head had been replaced with a stock low compression peanut plug unit, the torque converter was a stock stall unit with a sloppy front hub, the Holley was a mess with a ripped secondary diaphragm, deformed vacuum leaking base, and the timing curve was controlled by one light spring that would not hold the weights steady causing a rolling idle. The engine liked to idle in park at 1100 rpm, and in gear around 800 rpm because it still had the big cam; the car would not sit still at a stop light, and it was a pig.

Long story short, I shaved, ported, gasket matched intake, and installed over sized valves in the head. Called a converter company told them the particulars as far as I knew, but had no hard info on cam specs; this made picking a converter a crap shoot. The guy had enough info based on what I told him and experience to come up with a converter that did the job quite well for a driver, but not a racer.

In the mean time I got ahold of the guy that originally built the car in ’92 and picked his brain. After a bit of chatting we decided the block was the same as when he sold the car 12 years ago. I asked what he used for a red line, “6300, I blew up five engines before I learned how to build one to stay togetherâ€￾ he said. Then he volunteered that he ordered the biggest cam Clifford had, I asked if the car would burn rubber, he said; “yeah a lot of it, I drag it four years down at Englishtown, NJ. I would leave Friday afternoon from Danvers, Mass drive to the hotel, then to the track jack it up pop the 3.55 pumpkin out, and pop in the 4.11’s and go racing.

Fast forward to today, the car runs quite strongly, behaves well in traffic, gets 18.5mpg, and as of last fall turns the eight mile in 10.3 seconds @ 68.4mph; oh and it now easily lights both of’em up on clean dry pavement. I still haven’t got the Holley 390 working perfectly, it does not like the lumpy cam at idle; a new carb is in my future.

If you don’t know the specs of your cam, get a degree wheel and figure out what you have; it will make tuning and converter selection much easier, and you will only have to pull the tranny once.


[URL=http://s294.photobucket.com/user/wjajr/media/Dart%20Engine/001-1.jpg.html][img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/Dart%20Engine/001-1.jpg[/img][/URL]

[URL=http://s294.photobucket.com/user/wjajr/media/1967%20Dart/100_0708-1.jpg.html][img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/1967%20Dart/100_0708-1.jpg[/img][/URL]

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC