Lisle 71200 Stud Remover($25 on Amazon)
Heat & PB Blast. They should come out.
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| Manifold stud removal https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53019 |
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| Author: | crickhollow [ Sun Aug 11, 2013 4:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | Manifold stud removal |
How should I remove a manifold stud? It is very tight. Thanks |
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| Author: | Reed [ Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Vise grips or two nuts on the threads. Turn the innermost nut and use the outer nut as a jam nut. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Aug 11, 2013 8:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | Stud Puller... |
Or you can purchase a 5/16" stud puller and unscrew them with your 1/2" ratchet. -D.Idiot |
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| Author: | Danarchy [ Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
alternate heat and PB Blast before trying to remove them. |
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| Author: | robertob [ Sun Aug 11, 2013 2:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Weld a 5/16 nut on the stud with an oxy-acetylene torch. They turn right out after that. All the other methods have resulted in broken studs for me... |
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| Author: | Reed [ Sun Aug 11, 2013 2:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Question: what do you mean by "manifold stud"? Stud in the head that the manifolds bolt to? Stud in the intake for the carb to attach with? Stud in the exhaust manifold for the exhaust pipe to bolt to? Stud in the exhaust manifold for the intake to slide over and the nut to attach to? |
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| Author: | crickhollow [ Sun Aug 11, 2013 5:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Stud in the head that the manifolds bolt to |
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| Author: | Danarchy [ Sun Aug 11, 2013 6:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Lisle 71200 Stud Remover($25 on Amazon) Heat & PB Blast. They should come out. |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Sun Aug 11, 2013 6:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | X2 |
Quote: Heat & PB Blast. They should come out.
What he said, that typically does the job, I've tryed the 2 nut method and have broken studs because the wrench or socket side loaded the stud forming a shear point in the heat treated 40 year old studs...-D.Idiot |
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| Author: | 70valiant [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The two nut method resulted in stripped threads for me. I've gotten them out with vise grips, they were always marred badly enough I wouldn't reuse them though. |
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| Author: | Red [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 1:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Not the cheapest way, by any stretch, but Snap-On's collet-type, CG-500 set does it best, IMHO: 
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| Author: | slantsik [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 1:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have found it seems to help giving each stud a firm tap on the end of the studs with a brass hammer. This is after an overnight soak with a rust penetrant. I then use a stud remover as pictured above,but the studs are almost too small for the tool. Vice grips may be the way first. I would then clean the threads in the head and use locktite on new studs. Good luck and expect to snap at least 1 ! Brendan |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 2:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I would always install new studs any time a manifold is installed if the old studs are degraded at all. It is imposable to get a consistent torque on rusted or worn studs, and will most likely cause vacuum leak problems down the road. |
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