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| Dreaming a little here... https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53029 |
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| Author: | Sean Mallory [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 9:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | Dreaming a little here... |
One more emissions check and then my old truck will be exempt. Its a 1980 auto with so much stuff I still don't understand it all. Smog pump, EGR, vacuum amplifier, dual canisters, PCV...heck who knows what I've missed. There appears to be a tiny 1/16" plastic vacuum hose going throught the firewall to something or other. This is my daily driver to work and back. I got 16 mpg last tank and I'm content with that in stop and go traffic. I wouldn't dare get on the freeway around here tho. That option would be nice. I've looked at Clifford, Offenhauser, SuperSix, just about everything I think. I worry about silly things like linkages and hose connections. Really all I want to do is simplify things under the hood and get a bit more power and driveability. I've been saving up for this momentous event so I've got a decent budget. What would you do? I want to get it right the first time. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 10:54 am ] |
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Just a thought and a caution. Before you remove or modify any emissions equipment you should read this thread. |
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| Author: | Sean Mallory [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:07 am ] |
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Quote: Just a thought and a caution. Before you remove or modify any emissions equipment you should read this thread.
So just block the EGR port then?just kiddin, thread duly noted |
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If your truck has AC, then the plastic vacuum line going to the firewall provides vacuum for your HVAC system and must remain in place. If you decide to keep the catalytic converter, I recommend getting a modern three-way free-flowing converter. It will be free flowing and the "three-way" catalyst does a better job of living behind a carb and keeping the emissions clean. If you keep the catalytic converter you should definitely keep the AIR pump. Pumping more air into the catalyst helps the converter live longer behind a carb. The air pump and dual canisters don't harm performance and actually are beneficial. All the hoses make it more difficult to work on the engine, but they really should be left in place. Probably the best first step you can make is to make sure your distributor's vacuum and mechanical advance mechanisms are working properly and then spend some time custom curving your advance curve. Next up would be setting your valve lash to .012 intake and .022 exhaust for a bit more low end torque to help you heavy truck get moving. After that I would get your carb really running right. Clean it up, rebuild it, make sure everything is adjusted correctly. Also make sure your transmission kickdown is adjusted properly. Beyond those basics you start getting into modifications that require taking the engine apart to mill the head or replace the cam or other more expensive and involved things. I actually recommend keeping the single barrel carb in a truck or van unless you are going to be doing serious modifications to the motor. I know other guys will speak up and recommend you remove all the emissions equipment and switch to a two or four barrel carb, but just remember you are talking about a big daily-driver heavy truck, not a light A body going racing. |
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| Author: | Sean Mallory [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:29 am ] |
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much thanks Reed What you say makes a lot of sense. The cat is staying for sure. For my own benefit if nothing else. |
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| Author: | GTS225 [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:34 pm ] |
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Even if you don't have A/C, that small hose through the firewall may be supplying vacuum to the heater controls. If my memory serves me, the push button controls and associated valves are all vac actuated. Roger |
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Mon Aug 12, 2013 11:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The air pump seized in the 80 van in my driveway. Factory cat, it has been years since the pump died. I pulled the 1bbl and rebuilt a SS BBD. Mileage is the same as before. I did some minor head work, porting etc. |
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| Author: | Sean Mallory [ Tue Aug 13, 2013 6:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Probably the best first step you can make is to make sure your distributor's vacuum and mechanical advance mechanisms are working properly and then spend some time custom curving your advance curve.
How is this done? Pull the dist and clean it up and then a spring kit?
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| Author: | Rug_Trucker [ Tue Aug 13, 2013 8:24 am ] |
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Quote: The air pump seized in the 80 van in my driveway. Factory cat, it has been years since the pump died. I pulled the 1bbl and rebuilt a SS BBD. Mileage is the same as before. I did some minor head work, porting etc.
It still passes MARTA in Nashville every year. They only do a visual inspection for the cat.
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| Author: | Sean Mallory [ Tue Aug 13, 2013 8:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Quote: Quote: The air pump seized in the 80 van in my driveway. Factory cat, it has been years since the pump died. I pulled the 1bbl and rebuilt a SS BBD. Mileage is the same as before. I did some minor head work, porting etc.
It still passes MARTA in Nashville every year. They only do a visual inspection for the cat.Tennessee? Nothing but good to say about that state. Years ago, I used to drive through it once in awhile when my folks were in PA and I was in NM. One time, on a Sunday, I heard a fairly loud whirring from from my truck. I pulled off in some small town in TN (can't remember the name), and looked for an open shop. I caught a gent closing up and explained to him I was worried about the sounds I was hearing and I had a very long drive ahead of me. I was concerned it could be transmission or driveshaft I told him. He took a shine to me I guess, and told me to drive onto the lift. He checked my trans fluid and inspected underneath...I remember distinctly what he said, "the fluid is full and clear and everything seems tight". He then sent me on my way, no charge. I never forgot that act of kindness. |
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| Author: | Sean Mallory [ Tue Aug 13, 2013 8:59 am ] |
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Oh my worries went away and I made it to Alamogordo NM no problem. The whirring ended up being a noisy carrier bearing that I ran another 100,000 miles. |
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| Author: | Reed [ Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:23 am ] |
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Quote: Quote: Probably the best first step you can make is to make sure your distributor's vacuum and mechanical advance mechanisms are working properly and then spend some time custom curving your advance curve.
How is this done? Pull the dist and clean it up and then a spring kit?You got it. Don't forget to lubricate the springs and weights, too. |
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| Author: | Sean Mallory [ Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:56 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Just ordered a spring kit from bigslant6fan. Thanks Reed |
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