I finally decided to eliminate the ESA system on my 87 D150.I have a vac. advance dizzy,MSD 6a box, now I need a carburetor with a ported vac. port.Should I look for a 1945 or a 1920? Hopefully someone on here can point me to a good source.Slant six Dan has posted numerous times the evils of a parts store reman so that is out of the question.

I would use a 1945 myself. Many people have better luck with the 1920, but that was not my experience. I had way too many 1920s with corrosion-eaten metering blocks. The 1945 will have more of the emissions connections a late-model vehicle requires too.

_________________
Joshua

Either one works, but I've found 1945 parts more readily available. (brass floats available, and plastic floats on rockauto.com $5 or less for 1945. No brass float, and plastic float costs around $40 for 1920--if you can even find one.)

NOS 1945 $280

another NOS 1945 for $275

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I spent the entire day today working on my truck.I removed the ESA from the fender,opened it up and found one of the light blue wires connected to the vac transducer had broken off.Re-soldered it reassembled it and whaddya' know,the timing now advances! But on the ensuing test drive I mashed the accelerator the trans dropped into passing gear and at about 65 mph the truck started popping and backfired out the tail pipe.Is this fuel or coil related?

I suspect it is related to the lean burn system that "controls" the timing.

(1) verify that the vacuum transducer on the computer still holds a vacuum
(2) verify that the base timing is still correct
(3) verify that the plastic distributor gear has not cracked or broken


..........(4) verify that the lean burn has been removed and replaced with an ignition system that works.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I can't help but think of my Dad telling me "Just because it's workin boy don't mean it's workin RIGHT!