Slant Six Forum :: Should run better than this....

What ignition system does the truck have? Is it lean burn controlled ignition? Have you done any modifications to your timing advance curve? Have you verified that the timing mark on the vibration damper has not slipped? What gears does the truck have in the rear axle? Have you figured out a way to have the kickdown linkage for the transmission function with the Weber carb?

Pertronix Ignitor II, no lean burn, new oem type electronic distributor

the timing mark is a notch on damper no tape marks.

3.21 gears, and yes the kickdown is functioning...

I purchased a new (reman) single pickup vac adv distributor, installed a pertronix ignitor II, Flamethrower 0.6ohm coil, and the rest mentioned earlier. The truck was converted from electronic dist. to points type by previous owner.

I eliminated voltage regulator, ballast resistor, and condenser. I just read something on another forum regarding needing to upgrade alt wire from OEM to an 8 or 6 ga direct to battery since converting to one wire type, idea is that ignitorII needs more current. I do not know if truck was lean burn... does not have any of those items still on truck if so...wait I have window sticker etc... BRB,,, it was a MISER (YRM) and had an AIR PUMP (HAP). no charcoal canister either and i eliminated egr. think something could be disconnected? I cannot find accurate wiring diagrams to check for my specific year make model...

no vac leaks!

Have bench ported OEM cast exhaust mani outlet and have mandrel 3" single into 3" cat and 3" muffler out to back.

So I know kickdown is working great, compression i do not know but truck has 80k original, idles fair now with #50 jets even in gear...burb the throttle in gear and it dies.

I realize its not a power house per say but i expected a NOTICEABLE gain, Im headed to buy a compression tester now.

No idea what the problem is, but sweet truck!

I got that same alternator.

Not your problem, but isn't 3" exhaust too big? I run mandrel bent 2.5" on my 5.9 magnum gasser and she pulls like a locomotive.

Compression tester might be the key, the late engine with hydraulic cam isn't going to see a big jump in power like the late mech lifter cam. It will be off if the compression is down or getting worse in some of the cylinders. i would have also taken the time to check the timing chain and cam phasing before doing the swap, for best case scenario putting the stock cam in at 4 degrees advanced as a rule of thumb doesn't hurt.

I am curious as well on a few things, it looks like you have the flamethrower coil and an EI distributor (which is a nice crap shoot on what the advance is). What EI module are you using to drive the ignition? Or is it a reman points distributor with an Ignitor 2 installed?

I would also back the initial timing down to 10-12, until you know what the timing curve is for the distributor, 16 is a bit much for anything on the street unless you have built the engine with a purpose to use or need that much "leg up" on the low side.

-D.Idiot

16 BTDC was the stock timing specification for lean burn cars and trucks in the 80s. Since it is no longer lean burn I also recommend retarding the timing to the 10-12 BTDC range.

I can't imagine why anyone would go to Pertronix when they had a perfectly good Mopar electronic ignition distributor, but apparently it is possible.

We need more info to help you better. Compression etc....

Author:	DCFAB.US [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:48 am ]
Post subject:	Should run better than this....
This being my second post here figured id come out guns blazing! I hav an 1982 D150 /6 with 904 that i swapped an S6 intake, 38DGES, Ignitor II, Magnecore wires and Tuff Stuff 1 wire 100A alt. (chrysler style). Got the carb Idle jets where I think they need to be (50's) and timing at 16 deg. It feels no better than the 1bbl HOLLEY and 1bbl intake! Plugs look ok... suggestions?

Author:	Reed [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:56 am ]
Post subject:
What ignition system does the truck have? Is it lean burn controlled ignition? Have you done any modifications to your timing advance curve? Have you verified that the timing mark on the vibration damper has not slipped? What gears does the truck have in the rear axle? Have you figured out a way to have the kickdown linkage for the transmission function with the Weber carb?

Author:	DCFAB.US [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:13 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: What ignition system does the truck have? Is it lean burn controlled ignition? Have you done any modifications to your timing advance curve? Have you verified that the timing mark on the vibration damper has not slipped? What gears does the truck have in the rear axle? Have you figured out a way to have the kickdown linkage for the transmission function with the Weber carb? Pertronix Ignitor II, no lean burn, new oem type electronic distributor, the timing mark is a notch on damper no tape marks. 3.21 gears, and yes the kickdown is functioning...[img][img]http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd462/Strvnbutdrvn/2251_zps131b7855.jpg[/img][/img][/url][img][img]http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd462/Strvnbutdrvn/2253_zps3376ee12.jpg[/img][/img]

Author:	Reed [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:32 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Pertronix Ignitor II, no lean burn, new oem type electronic distributor Wait, the Ignitor II ignition system is a system to replace a points ignition. You can't run an ignitor II ignition module with a "oem type electronic distributor." Do you mean you are running the Pertronix flamethrower II coil and and electronic ignition distributor? If so, what ignition system are you using? Did the truck ever have a lean burn system installed? If so, did it control the ignition? If so, are you using that same lean burn distributor that has no provision for mechanical or vacuum timing advance? Quote: the timing mark is a notch on damper no tape marks. Yes, I know that, but have you verified that the #1 piston is actually at TDC when the timing marks says it is? The timing mark on the damper is on a metal ring that is bonded to the metal hub that slips onto the crankshaft. That bod is created by a thin strip of rubber. Over time the outer ring can slip in relation to the center hub of the vibration damper, leading to an inaccurate timing mark. I have personally seen timing marks on slant sixes as much as 8 degrees off, and I have read about others that had slipped even more. You need to use a piston stop tool to verify that the timing mark still accurately indicates TDC on #1. Quote: 3.21 gears, and yes the kickdown is functioning... OK, but is the kickdown functioning and adjusted correctly?

Author:	Doc [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 11:32 am ]
Post subject:
What are your cranking compression readings? DD

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Should run better than this.... https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=53109	Page 1 of 4

Author:	Joshie225 [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 12:40 pm ]
Post subject:
How's the exhaust back-pressure?

Author:	DCFAB.US [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:00 pm ]
Post subject:	Ok....
AWESOME to get this many responses so quickly! Ill try and answer in order... I purchased a new (reman) single pickup vac adv distributor, installed a pertronix ignitor II, Flamethrower 0.6ohm coil, and the rest mentioned earlier. The truck was converted from electronic dist. to points type by previous owner. I eliminated voltage regulator, ballast resistor, and condenser. I just read something on another forum regarding needing to upgrade alt wire from OEM to an 8 or 6 ga direct to battery since converting to one wire type, idea is that ignitorII needs more current. I do not know if truck was lean burn... does not have any of those items still on truck if so...wait I have window sticker etc... BRB,,, it was a MISER (YRM) and had an AIR PUMP (HAP). no charcoal canister either and i eliminated egr. think something could be disconnected? I cannot find accurate wiring diagrams to check for my specific year make model... no vac leaks! Have bench ported OEM cast exhaust mani outlet and have mandrel 3" single into 3" cat and 3" muffler out to back. So I know kickdown is working great, compression i do not know but truck has 80k original, idles fair now with #50 jets even in gear...burb the throttle in gear and it dies. I realize its not a power house per say but i expected a NOTICEABLE gain, Im headed to buy a compression tester now. [/img] [/img] [/img] [/img]

Author:	Reed [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:32 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Ok....
Quote: I purchased a new (reman) single pickup vac adv distributor, installed a pertronix ignitor II, Flamethrower 0.6ohm coil, and the rest mentioned earlier. The truck was converted from electronic dist. to points type by previous owner. OK, you are going to have to do some more explaining. The Pertronix Ignitor II ignition system will not work in an electronic ignition distributor. Can you post a picture of the inside of your distributor with the cap removed? Quote: I eliminated voltage regulator, ballast resistor, and condenser. I just read something on another forum regarding needing to upgrade alt wire from OEM to an 8 or 6 ga direct to battery since converting to one wire type, idea is that ignitorII needs more current. I do not know if truck was lean burn... does not have any of those items still on truck if so...wait I have window sticker etc... BRB,,, it was a MISER (YRM) and had an AIR PUMP (HAP). no charcoal canister either and i eliminated egr. think something could be disconnected? I cannot find accurate wiring diagrams to check for my specific year make model... You need to get a factory service manual. Quote: no vac leaks! Have bench ported OEM cast exhaust mani outlet and have mandrel 3" single into 3" cat and 3" muffler out to back. So I know kickdown is working great, compression i do not know but truck has 80k original, idles fair now with #50 jets even in gear...burb the throttle in gear and it dies. I realize its not a power house per say but i expected a NOTICEABLE gain, Im headed to buy a compression tester now. Let us know what you find out.

Author:	DusterIdiot [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:46 pm ]
Post subject:	Yep.
Compression tester might be the key, the late engine with hydraulic cam isn't going to see a big jump in power like the late mech lifter cam. It will be off if the compression is down or getting worse in some of the cylinders. i would have also taken the time to check the timing chain and cam phasing before doing the swap, for best case scenario putting the stock cam in at 4 degrees advanced as a rule of thumb doesn't hurt. I am curious as well on a few things, it looks like you have the flamethrower coil and an EI distributor (which is a nice crap shoot on what the advance is). What EI module are you using to drive the ignition? Or is it a reman points distributor with an Ignitor 2 installed? I would also back the initial timing down to 10-12, until you know what the timing curve is for the distributor, 16 is a bit much for anything on the street unless you have built the engine with a purpose to use or need that much "leg up" on the low side. -D.Idiot

Author:	DCFAB.US [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:47 pm ]
Post subject:	Reed...
... IGNITOR II PN# 9CH-161 is indeed for an single pickup electronic type distributor w vac adv per pertronix tech line. The reluctor and pickup were removed and replaced with the pertronix plates/parts. [img][img]http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd462/Strvnbutdrvn/null_zps064e8cc1.jpg[/img][/img]

Author:	Sean Mallory [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:51 pm ]
Post subject:
No idea what the problem is, but sweet truck! I got that same alternator. Not your problem, but isn't 3" exhaust too big? I run mandrel bent 2.5" on my 5.9 magnum gasser and she pulls like a locomotive.

Author:	DCFAB.US [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 2:07 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: No idea what the problem is, but sweet truck! I got that same alternator. Not your problem, but isn't 3" exhaust too big? I run mandrel bent 2.5" on my 5.9 magnum gasser and she pulls like a locomotive. Prob a bit-o-overkill, thats why the cat isnt gutted to give me a little back pressure! Thanks for the compliment. Did you change alt. wire to larger ga.?

Author:	DCFAB.US [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 2:10 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Yep.
Quote: Compression tester might be the key, the late engine with hydraulic cam isn't going to see a big jump in power like the late mech lifter cam. It will be off if the compression is down or getting worse in some of the cylinders. i would have also taken the time to check the timing chain and cam phasing before doing the swap, for best case scenario putting the stock cam in at 4 degrees advanced as a rule of thumb doesn't hurt. I am curious as well on a few things, it looks like you have the flamethrower coil and an EI distributor (which is a nice crap shoot on what the advance is). What EI module are you using to drive the ignition? Or is it a reman points distributor with an Ignitor 2 installed? I would also back the initial timing down to 10-12, until you know what the timing curve is for the distributor, 16 is a bit much for anything on the street unless you have built the engine with a purpose to use or need that much "leg up" on the low side. -D.Idiot 11deg helped some with the on off throttle in gear stalling issue....think I need to change some things inside carb. No backfiring plugs look a bit rich at mid to WOT pulls. I have INNOVATE wide band Im going to plug up and find out whats going on! So which Hyd cam is the best bang for a street engine with a 38Weber? I hear about drag cams and such but a noticeable street difference? ANYONE? THANK YOU EVERYONE thus far!!!

Author:	Reed [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 2:40 pm ]
Post subject:
16 BTDC was the stock timing specification for lean burn cars and trucks in the 80s. Since it is no longer lean burn I also recommend retarding the timing to the 10-12 BTDC range. I can't imagine why anyone would go to Pertronix when they had a perfectly good Mopar electronic ignition distributor, but apparently it is possible. We need more info to help you better. Compression etc....

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Author:	DCFAB.US [ Wed Aug 21, 2013 2:46 pm ]
Post subject:
Quote: 16 BTDC was the stock timing specification for lean burn cars and trucks in the 80s. Since it is no longer lean burn I also recommend retarding the timing to the 10-12 BTDC range. I can't imagine why anyone would go to Pertronix when they had a perfectly good Mopar electronic ignition distributor, but apparently it is possible. We need more info to help you better. Compression etc.... Yeah i wondered the same when I saw it!!! Why go backwards! Oh well I think the Ignition is fine... Im going to check mechanicals like compression and Timing chain slop etc next...Thank you for the advice. Have pics of the supercharged setup?